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Crank but no start

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Old Jul 3, 2017 | 02:56 PM
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Crank but no start

I have a 2000 F350 7.3
A couple weeks ago I noticed that it was taking longer to start then it should be.
Now I have to cycle the key switch 3 or 4 time to get it to start. There is a clicking coming from the relay block under the radio. Sometimes the truck will start sometimes it has to be rolled off. I have recently replace the starter and alternator. I have had the batteries tested and they are good. I replaced the two small relays in the block under the radio, one is for the fuel pump and the other I understand is for the door locks? I also read on here the large blue one is for the turn signal so I have not changed that one. After all this I still have the same problems. I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2017 | 03:05 PM
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When you turn the key is the dash powering up normally? There is a starter relay on the passenger side fender under the hood. It could be going bad. Or It may not be getting the signal. Have someone hold the key to start and check to see if the small post is getting 12 volts. If it is tap the relay with a screw driver handle and see if it starts. Also check you're starter mount bolts to make sure they are tight. If not put a little lock tight on them and tighten them.
If your not getting the 12 volt signal at the starter relay the it may be the neutral safety switch for the clutch pedal.
Let us know what you find and we'll go from there
 
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Old Jul 3, 2017 | 03:07 PM
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Relays clicking while cranking is usually a sign of low voltage. How were the batteries tested? Was it done with them in the truck? Was one of the ground cables removed before testing?
 
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Old Jul 3, 2017 | 03:47 PM
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When I turn the key the dash powers up just like it should. Wait to start light comes on and you can hear the glow plug solenoid comes on. The WTS light goes out, I turn the switch to start and the relays begin to click. They click until the truck starts or I turn the switch off. I am getting 12v to the starter relay. I just checked the starter bolts and they are tight. When I had the batteries checked they were in the truck. One battery was disconnected, the other still connected. Both tested to be good. However I just disconnected both battries and hooked them to the charger separately. Just to verify that they are fully charged.

How many volts should I read on the battery while cranking the truck?

Also I read that it can be the CPS. I haven't checked it with the meter but I can see the rpm gauge moving while cranking. Does that indicate a good CPS?
 
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Old Jul 3, 2017 | 03:58 PM
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So the starter is turning the engine but it's not lighting off. I thought it wasn't turning at all. How's your oil level?
 
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Old Jul 3, 2017 | 04:46 PM
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I checked the oil and it was in the operating range. However it is due for an oil change. And yes the engine turns over but doesn't always start. It's anybody's guess as to whether or not it will start. There doesn't seem to be any pattern to it. But it has always roll started as a last resort.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2017 | 05:21 PM
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Based on what you've posted I would suspect a bad starter, connection or cable first, to be quite honest. The fact the engine will pop start every time tells me the starter isn't turning the engine fast enough for the PCM to allow it to start and/or the voltage is dropping too low while cranking.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2017 | 06:25 PM
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I am leaning towards low voltage, because of the relays clicking. I am just not sure what is causing the drop. I can't figure out why the only relays affected are the ones for the turn signal, fuel pump and door locks. I am stumped.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2017 | 10:05 AM
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I fully charged both batteries (independently) and put them back in the truck. When I start cranking, the voltage drops to 8.5 Could this be to low to start?
 
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Old Jul 5, 2017 | 03:22 PM
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Bad starter drawing too much current is my guess.
 
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