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Re-torque during Glow Plug Replacement?

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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 09:04 PM
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Re-torque during Glow Plug Replacement?

I will be changing all the glow plugs in a few days.
Should I re-torque the head bolts or anything while I am in there?
Don't want to button it back up and then wish I had done something while in there.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 12:46 AM
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Head bolts are not usually a problem on these trucks, but the lower injector mounting bolts can decide to loosen. I think Tugly has a discussion in his signature about that particular problem which he has become an expert on.

Another thing to consider is replacing the under valve cover harnesses(UVCH) if you haven't done that. The newer harnesses are improved and not terribly expensive (buy OEM from Riffraff or others).

While you are messing around, the high pressure oil connections to the heads are leak prone-orings go bad. And you could rebuild the fuel filter housing with new o-rings.

Have you cleaned out the exhaust back pressure sensor tube lately?

Larry
 
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 05:26 AM
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Injector O-rings
http://www.dieselorings.com/1999-200...-exterior.html
 
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 07:04 AM
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unless you have a lot of miles on injectors-250K or more- I would just do the 50 cent mod, check torque on the injectors and rockers.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 07:44 AM
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Retorqued mine last night and not sure if wrench was to blame or the fact they were loose. After buttoning up the driver side, I fired it off and boy!, the #2 sounded like it was eating metal. Turned it off and on again and noise went away...
 
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 08:06 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions. I am making a list of them and will follow the links to get a better understanding of each procedure.

I am not sure what the back pressure sensor tube is or how to clean it?

The engine was replaced with a 2002 motor has a little over 100k on it, the truck has 238k on the speedometer.
It came with an envelope full of receipts, I will go through them today and find out exactly what has been done already and the date it was done.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by jimjokjv

I am not sure what the back pressure sensor tube is or how to clean it?

.

Here ya go



 
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 05:26 PM
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Thanks, that explains it perfectly.

I went through the receipts and found that in 2014 all of the following were done to the truck. Most by a Ford Dealer.
F81Z6K854FA (Adapter) Turbo Up Pipe
F81Z6K854EA (Adapter) Turbo Up Pipe
F81Z6K854AA (Adapter) Turbo "T"
F4TZ6K854C (Adapter) Flange Gasket
W300013 (Bolt) "Y" pipe bolt
W300050 (Nut) "Y" pipe nut
1C3Z6C640LA - A (Connection) Intercooler Tube -Blue
YC3Z6C640PA - A (Connection) Intercooler Tube - Red
F6TZ9F838A (Sensor Assembly) ICP sensor
5C3Z12224A (Connector) ICP sensor Plug pigtail
F4TZ6N653B (Gasket) Pedestal O-rings Yellow-Large
F4TZ6N653A (Gasket) pedestal O-rings Yellow-Small
F81Z9N332AA (Elbow) HPOP fittings
F4TZ6769A (Valve Assembly - CR) Dog House O-rings - small
F4TZ6769C (Ring - Sealing) Dog House O-rings - large
F4TZ8287A (Clamp - Hose) Intercooler Tube Clamps
F4TZ6K854F (Adapter) Exhaust Flange

****78-8677 (Power Control Module)****

Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve
Upper and lower ball joint
Fan Clutch
Shifter Cable
Hub Bearing
Track Bar
Water Separator Valve

Almost $5000 in parts and labor.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jimjokjv
Thanks, that explains it perfectly.

I went through the receipts and found that in 2014 all of the following were done to the truck. Most by a Ford Dealer.
F81Z6K854FA (Adapter) Turbo Up Pipe
F81Z6K854EA (Adapter) Turbo Up Pipe
F81Z6K854AA (Adapter) Turbo "T"
F4TZ6K854C (Adapter) Flange Gasket
W300013 (Bolt) "Y" pipe bolt
W300050 (Nut) "Y" pipe nut
1C3Z6C640LA - A (Connection) Intercooler Tube -Blue
YC3Z6C640PA - A (Connection) Intercooler Tube - Red
F6TZ9F838A (Sensor Assembly) ICP sensor
5C3Z12224A (Connector) ICP sensor Plug pigtail
F4TZ6N653B (Gasket) Pedestal O-rings Yellow-Large
F4TZ6N653A (Gasket) pedestal O-rings Yellow-Small
F81Z9N332AA (Elbow) HPOP fittings
F4TZ6769A (Valve Assembly - CR) Dog House O-rings - small
F4TZ6769C (Ring - Sealing) Dog House O-rings - large
F4TZ8287A (Clamp - Hose) Intercooler Tube Clamps
F4TZ6K854F (Adapter) Exhaust Flange

****78-8677 (Power Control Module)****

Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeve
Upper and lower ball joint
Fan Clutch
Shifter Cable
Hub Bearing
Track Bar
Water Separator Valve

Almost $5000 in parts and labor.
Thanks for taking the time to post those part #s. You made it easy for me on two of those part #s. Looking at that price gives me chest pain. I'm happy to work on my truck and I do understand not everyone has the luxury.

I don't have experience re-torquing the injectors. When I do pop off the valve cover I plan on re-torquing.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2017 | 10:09 PM
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You are welcome. Glad to contribute something.
I found that if you copy and paste the part numbers that Amazon will usually have it available and priced. Also, it seems there are suppliers on eBay as well.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2017 | 09:36 AM
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With just over 100k on the engine I am wondering if changing the injector O-rings while I have the valve covers off might be a good idea?
Are there any special tools required?
 
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Old Jul 8, 2017 | 05:39 PM
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No special tools required but with 100k their just getting broke in good. No need unless your seeing oil in the fuel filter.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2017 | 06:47 PM
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I just ordered a new Motorcraft fuel filter for it since it was one of the items not mentioned on the list of receipts.
Will I be looking for the filter to be black if it has oil in it? Sorry for the simplistic questions but I am just now learning about diesel engines.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 10:15 PM
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Changed the glow plugs on the driver's side of the engine today. Re-torqued lower injector bolts (all of them took about 1/2 turn) and verified torque on rocker arm bolts. Hopefully get the other side done tomorrow morning.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 10:01 AM
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Let us know how it does when you are done. I keep thinking and talking about re-torque the injectors and rockers but haven't gotten around to it. With 320+K on my clock, I am sure it will quiet down the cackling some.
 
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