When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Probably because the '99-'04s don't fracture like the later ones I'm guessing.
Right, but what I meant is that for the 99-04 boxes from the description they mainly just replace the seals, they don't replace gears unless they are totally messed up. Which I'm guessing is why my reman Cardone steering box for my Excursion had play in it from day one. It was better then the one I replaced, but still has an inch of side to side wheel play whether straight ahead or turned. Everything else was checked as good, and then replaced anyway about 15k miles later when I had the whole front end apart to replace front axles. Still has same 1" of steering wheel play. Maybe the NAPA unit would work, I've heard decent things about their parts...
I have had great success with adjusting the screw on the box. There is a Ford Service bulletin about it that tells you how to do it, I'm sure on of the tech guru's can provide a link. I purchased my truck about 2 years ago and the steering had a ton of slop in it, so I replaced everything, all linkage and tie rod ends, and even did all the ball-joints...still had slop in the wheel. I finally did adjusted the box and worked great, problem solved! steering wheel finally had no slack in it and no issues turning. Find the Ford TSB and follow the directions... saved me from buying a new box..
No, none of those cover the procedure, I'll keep digging to see if I can find it when I get time, but there is a TSB that specifically outlines the adjustment procedure of loosening the lock nut, screw down the adjuster until it stops, then back of 1/8 to 1/4 turn, and tighten the lock nut. Followed this and worked perfectly. I wouldn't have tried it if I didn't see an actual Ford notice on it, I just can't find it right now...
No, none of those cover the procedure, I'll keep digging to see if I can find it when I get time, but there is a TSB that specifically outlines the adjustment procedure of loosening the lock nut, screw down the adjuster until it stops, then back of 1/8 to 1/4 turn, and tighten the lock nut. Followed this and worked perfectly. I wouldn't have tried it if I didn't see an actual Ford notice on it, I just can't find it right now...
Will try adjusting a little bit at a time. If you find the TSB that'd be awesome!
No, none of those cover the procedure, I'll keep digging to see if I can find it when I get time, but there is a TSB that specifically outlines the adjustment procedure of loosening the lock nut, screw down the adjuster until it stops, then back of 1/8 to 1/4 turn, and tighten the lock nut. Followed this and worked perfectly. I wouldn't have tried it if I didn't see an actual Ford notice on it, I just can't find it right now...
Which truck did you do the adjustment on? You have 2 trucks in your signature.
I've looked all over for that TSB. The only TSB I've found is on the 08-11. That was only about 538 Super Duty's.
No, none of those cover the procedure, I'll keep digging to see if I can find it when I get time, but there is a TSB that specifically outlines the adjustment procedure of loosening the lock nut, screw down the adjuster until it stops, then back of 1/8 to 1/4 turn, and tighten the lock nut. Followed this and worked perfectly. I wouldn't have tried it if I didn't see an actual Ford notice on it, I just can't find it right now...
I did this, but backed out half a turn. Took care of almost all the slop. Will do it again and go about another quarter turn to see if it takes care of the rest.
I started by jacking up the front of the truck and cranking the wheel all the way to the left. Put 3/16 allen key in to hold adjuster and broke loose locknut with 5/8 stubby wrench. Adjuster turned in 1 1/2 turns, then I backed off 1/2 turn. Started truck and turned wheel side to side, no binding. Took for a test ride, much better than before. Had slightly over an inch of play in wheel at the rim before, now about 1/4". Took about 20 min including test drive, and just accessed the box from underneath, no disassembly required. On a 2005 Excursion.
About 700 miles later and still good. Going to go in another 1/4 turn this weekend.
I did this, but backed out half a turn. Took care of almost all the slop. Will do it again and go about another quarter turn to see if it takes care of the rest.
I started by jacking up the front of the truck and cranking the wheel all the way to the left. Put 3/16 allen key in to hold adjuster and broke loose locknut with 5/8 stubby wrench. Adjuster turned in 1 1/2 turns, then I backed off 1/2 turn. Started truck and turned wheel side to side, no binding. Took for a test ride, much better than before. Had slightly over an inch of play in wheel at the rim before, now about 1/4". Took about 20 min including test drive, and just accessed the box from underneath, no disassembly required. On a 2005 Excursion.
About 700 miles later and still good. Going to go in another 1/4 turn this weekend.
I just did the same on my 05 except after bottoming out I backed it off about 1/4 turn.
For anyone else considering it, it took a 5/8 and an 11/16 wrench for the double locknuts. Then the 3/16" hex socket drive for the adjuster screw. All that you need to remove is the air cleaner assembly.
Been messing with mine and having good results. Maybe it will die soon, but until then it drives a lot nicer! Also put on a stabilizer damper thing too and that also helped. The official procedure is to remove a bunch of crap but in my case just remove the air filter and carefully squeeze my arms down there. Not too bad.
So, I adjusted the box again. Jacked front end up, cranked the steering hard left, screwed in adjuster until it stopped, this time backed out 1/4 turn. Now I'm going to have to relearn how to drive my truck again. Slop is totally gone, but I keep moving the wheel in anticipation like I did before. Drives like a sports car now
Too much adjustment of the mesh load and you will get to a point
with the wear on the teeth that they will start cracking.
Hopefully I'm not at that point
I replaced the original 120k mile steering box (which I did not adjust) with this Cardone unit...and noticed almost no difference. All balljoints, tie-rods, and drag links all brand new. Was originally going to get a Blue Top box but decided since so many people have posted success stories regarding the adjustment I'd give it a shot. Will see how long it lasts.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.