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I have an 04 Excursion with a 6.0, 172000 miles, IPR remote oil cooler with Gen 3 EGR delete and in-line coolant filter. Recently I have been experiencing coolant temps in the 200-212 range while driving around town. When I idle the temps come back down and when I get to a steady speed the temps come down to around 190. I recently cleaned the coolant filter, the oil temps are within 5-8 degrees of the water temps. Fan speed ranges between 200-1200 RPM depending on how fast the engine is running.
Maybe some of y'all have experienced these same issues and can tell me if this is normal or if I am looking at a potential problem.
I've owned the Excursion since 2013, I have put about 60K miles since then. Before I installed the IPR remote cooler, EGR delete and coolant filter the water temps would stay pretty steady around 190 when driving around town and on the highway. The oil temps would be about 25-30 degrees higher. Now my oil temps are pretty close to the water temps even driving around town. Accelerating on city streets brings the water temp up to a max so far of about 212 but then would come down rather quickly once I achieve a steady speed. Currently the outside temps have reached high 80's to mid 90's. Fan speeds have been random, sometimes around 250RPM and other times around 1200RPM. Fan speed is normally around 500-800 RPM while steady driving.
I replaced the thermostat about a year ago with s Ford replacement
So with the EGR delete, do you have an EGR valve plugged in, even if it is just laying on top of the engine? Your fan speeds seem low to me and an unplugged EGR valve affects fan operation, believe it or not...
Next I'm thinking obstruction of the cooling stack or coolant pump, which is or can be an issue for your year...
I do have the EGR valve unplugged, I'll plug it back in. Short of reinstalling the EGR cooler any suggestions on how to resolve this issue? I did notice I only began having this issue after I performed the EGR delete.
Fan speeds have been random, sometimes around 250RPM and other times around 1200RPM. Fan speed is normally around 500-800 RPM while steady driving.
Unless you're watching Fan Clutch DC at the same time speed isn't very informative on it's own, other than seeing that the clutch is still locking in to some degree at some points.
At 0% DC turning 500-800rpm is pretty normal. Running over 800rpm but less than engine RPM is probably a 50-60% DC, and when the fan is running higher than engine RPM (usually the fan is audible at this point, especially when starting from a stop) it's going to be near 100% DC.
With the EGR valve unplugged there's a good chance your high ECT was because it wasn't locking in SOON enough, but there are a number of variables that control the fan clutch so maybe when it was finally jumping up something else was triggering it. Plug the valve back in, watch the clutch lockup PID, and you should be fine if it was fan operation that was messed up from the valve being unplgged.
One example, my gauges show 0% DC at idle and the fan is turning ~engine RPM, but when the Max AC is on almost every time I start from a stop the clutch lockup pops to ~60% for a couple seconds, the fan spools up, then cuts back down to 0% pretty quick; so we can see AC status is one of the parameters that controls fan operation, it must lock it in when RPMs are at idle, APP (pedal input) is zero, or some other input plus the AC pressure switch is triggered, all to provide better airflow at idle.
Unless you're watching Fan Clutch DC at the same time speed isn't very informative on it's own, other than seeing that the clutch is still locking in to some degree at some points.
At 0% DC turning 500-800rpm is pretty normal. Running over 800rpm but less than engine RPM is probably a 50-60% DC, and when the fan is running higher than engine RPM (usually the fan is audible at this point, especially when starting from a stop) it's going to be near 100% DC.
With the EGR valve unplugged there's a good chance your high ECT was because it wasn't locking in SOON enough, but there are a number of variables that control the fan clutch so maybe when it was finally jumping up something else was triggering it. Plug the valve back in, watch the clutch lockup PID, and you should be fine if it was fan operation that was messed up from the valve being unplgged.
One example, my gauges show 0% DC at idle and the fan is turning ~engine RPM, but when the Max AC is on almost every time I start from a stop the clutch lockup pops to ~60% for a couple seconds, the fan spools up, then cuts back down to 0% pretty quick; so we can see AC status is one of the parameters that controls fan operation, it must lock it in when RPMs are at idle, APP (pedal input) is zero, or some other input plus the AC pressure switch is triggered, all to provide better airflow at idle.
Is the clutch lockup PID on the torque app? If it is, is it part of the specified superduty PIDs or do you have to create it?
I am not sure what Bryan uses to monitor the DC actual sent to the fan, but my GUESS would be that the PID we use in Torque is looking at the commanded value, which could be expressed as volts or rpm, because I don't know that there is any closed loop feedback on the fan operation (PCM asks for X and is able to see Y results).
But what I understand is the fan operation is very much dependent on the input of the EGR valve being plugged in. If it isn't, people report less fan engagement than if the EGR is plugged in and seen by the PCM....
And Bryan knows like 1000% more than me, so take this with that grain of salt...
I use DashBoss on iPhone, but SCII should do it also. I really need to get Torque app so I can get up to speed on it for posts list this. What you're saying sounds correct, Scott, I honestly don't know everything that drives the fan clutch lockup but someone did a pretty good analysis on a data log awhile back that seemed to show several separate triggers for it. I know idling in Max A/C and SEIC lock mine in separate from temperatures.