the driver side front body mount bushing on my 2014 is gone which has the grill sitting on the bumper.
i started to replace it, but the bolt is sized to the nut. ran off about 1/2 inch and that is it, it will not tighten or loosen anymore.
i cut the head off the bolt, but can not get the body high enough to remove the old bushing so i can cut the nut off flush with the rad support.
now i am trying to get the air filter box out so i can cut the top of the "nut cage" off to remove the bolt and nut out the top. but i can not figure out how it is held in. i have the intake disconnected and the filter hat off, overflow tank hose disconnected, and two bolts holding the whole thing to the fender out, but it will still not budge.

what am i missing here?

 

well, its probably too late...and the 2014 might be different than my 2010.

a. did you take the bolt out of the steering colum located on the drivers side accessible from the wheel well once you remove the wheel guard liner?

b. so basically you are not going to be able to lift the body to replace 1 bushing unless you loosen all body bushings...loosen the right on the pax side on all mount boults a few turns so that the body can tilt...then loose all the bolts on the drivers side until they are all most all out, but not all the way. then you can remove the bolt for the front drivers side.

c. AND, DO NOT USE AND IMPACT GUN>

d. not the spinning nut plate problem...the best solution for the ones on each side of the radiator is to mig weld the nutplate to the frame. hit it with a mig gun so that the weld is compressed as it rotates...jamming effect.

e. but you cut the head off....that bolt is pretty long and I think you are going to need a bolt extractor socket now...after you mig the nut plate to the frame.

f. all the nut plates need a spray lube.

g. the nut plates in the cabin area can be heated with a tourch to break the lock tite.

h. did I tell you that the bolts have lock tight and you need to heat the nuts and or heads up with a tourch before trying to un bolt them....yeah...that.

 

body goes plenty high to change the bushing once the bolt is out of the way.

the problem is the bolt is seized to the nut, which is hidden under a cage that prevents the nut and bolt from being lifted out.
no impact, i used a 3 foot breaker bar until it snapped the head of the bar.
if i can get the air box out i think i can get in there with the plasma cutter to cut the cage out.

 

well, i got the air filter box and overflow tank out of the way and had just enough room to get the plasma cutter in there to cut 3/4 of the nut cage out of the way and get the old nut and stud out.
new bushing is in, and just waiting for a second set of hands to show up to tighten the bolt up.

 

Any idea what caused a 3 year old bushing to wear out?

 

i have seen it quite a few times. but only on the driver side front bushing.
not sure what causes the bushing to fall apart though.

 

TJC Transport,

I read your thread and I am going through the same thing you experienced back in 2017. It's the same spot, position#1 front drivers side body mount position. I am a DIY guy. My truck is a 2012 Ford F-350 6.7L Diesel 4x4 Dually with only 29K miles, low mileage truck. Body mount bushings are gone, disintegrated, all but position#3. Looks like that position is actually rubber. So, back to the problem. The front drivers side bolt and nut are seized. Cannot loosen or tighten. I did not cut the bolt yet but it seems like that is the next step. By feel and using a mirror and flashlight the space seems tight where the nut is. The area over the top of the nut is surrounded by part of the radiator (black polymer/plastic). I took off the grille and it just looks like a major job to extract the remaining bolt and nut once I cut the bolt off on the bottom. It just looks like to have total access overhead to remove the cage nut and remaining bolt I will have to remove the radiator. What's in front of the radiator is 3-separate coolers. I believe they are transmission oil coolers. I'm good but I'm not that good to take all that apart and put it back together properly. Everything you mention in your thread are possible problems I have already thought of that I could encounter. If I can just cut the bolt from the bottom and push the bolt and cage nut out from the top then problem solved. The bolt and body mount in that position is somewhat loose so I can continue to change all of the body mount bushings. Damn! I really don't want to take this to the Ford Dealer. But, it's an option. I wish we could talk. I'd like to pick your brain. Let me know your thoughts, TJC Transport. Thanks.

 

the "coolers" are Radiator, AC condenser, and trans cooler .
no deed to remove them if you can get in there to cut the cage off the nut.
i removed the driver side battery, and battery tray and was able to get enough room to be able to fit the torch of the plasma cutter in to cut the cage off.
it was not easy, but i got it done. if i remember correctly it took me around 9 hours over two days from start to finish to get it done.

 

TJC Transport, thanks for the prompt response. Yeah, taking the battery and battery tray off sounds easy. It's using the Plasma cutting torch that would be challenging. For me, that would be out of my league. I guess I'll work on the other 7 Body Cab Bushings and think about some options. That is one option I can go for sure but not with me operating the Plasma cutting torch. I'd have to hire someone. Or, I just take it to a Master Mechanic or the Ford Dealer. I have touched base with them. Just waiting to hear back. Thanks TJC Transport!

 

you may be able to use a sharp chisel and hammer to cut the cage off the nut. i just don't remember if it is possible.
i am getting senile in my old age and cant remember squat any more. .

 

Funny! You sound pretty talented to get the job done. I'm brainstorming some ideas. I haven't given up to the Ford Dealer yet. If I can hire someone to cut that cage nut out with a torch then I prefer that route. I have friends that are expert welders. Of course I'll pay them but I'm sure it will be way cheaper than the dealer. I'll keep you posted on the outcome. Again, thanks for your response!

 

TJC Transport,

Ok, I replaced the other 7-bushings. The 3-rear right and the 4-left. One of them gave me problems just above the passenger seat which is position#2. Cage nut was slipping. Slid a 45 degree box wrench in an opening of the cab frame under the vehicle. I did not need to rip my carpet out. Anyway, all 7 are removed, installed and bolts loose. Now, I need to get at the front drivers side. I know you told me you removed the battery and battery tray. I removed the grill, both headlights, and plastic polymer grill mount. I have almost a clear shot of the cage, nut, and protruding bolt. I just have to bend back the radiator hose that passes over the space. I don't want collateral damage so I'm still debating. It looks like if I remove the battery and battery tray I'm going to still have obstructions straight down. I don't know what this metal component is. Hoses run into it from the radiator. I'm trying to look for diagrams of the layout but having problems finding. It looks like I have to remove it to get a clear straight shot down. Can you confirm to me that you only had to remove the battery and battery tray? Thanks.

 

not sure on the diesel, my truck is a 6.2 gas.

 

Got it. Thanks for the reply. I'll figure it out.

 

Ok, I got it done! Almost caved in to the Ford Dealerships Service Department. It was close. My problem position was front drivers side right near the radiator. In case someone gets stuck in my position here is how I succeeded. I removed the grille, left/right headlights, and grill mount. When you remove these parts you still don't have access to the cage-nut and bolt. The secondary radiator hose covers over the space where the cage-nut holding the bolt is located. Drain the secondary radiator, remove the clamp on the hose blocking the space and remove the hose from the radiator. Be prepared for some leftover coolant fluid to flow out of the hose and the radiator. Lift the hose out of the way and secure it. You'll have easy access into the space for both heating and holding the nut. There is part of the radiator plastic polymer surrounding the space so if using a torch you need to ignite once the torch head is in the space to avoid melting that plastic. I torched it twice, both times for a minute+ each. Torching the nut I thought was key. I used a 7/8 6-point deep socket holding the nut. Instead of using a ratchet I had my buddy hold it with a breaker bar with a 3" extension. First time I used a impact wrench on the bottom. I used a powerful impact wrench too. I could not get the bolt removed. It kept binding. I thought for sure it would loosen. Didn't work. This time I went manual with breaker bar on the bottom instead of the impact wrench. This time I torched the nut for over a minute. I wanted this bolt off! Got under the vehicle with a 24" breaker bar with my buddy holding the nut and it turned like butter until it was removed. I was stoked! Cause the next step was Sawz-all the bottom off then torch the nut cage. Glad I didn't get to that point. I used "Energy Suspension" bushings part#4.4124, $250 with no hardware. The ride with those bushings are stiff but no more metal to metal grinding. I suggest looking at S&B Silicone bushings. They come with all the hardware and bolts. The reviews are excellent as far as ride quality. No one knows about how long they will last since they just came out about 1-2 years ago. They advertise it will last forever. Time will tell. Ok, hope this helps everyone running into this problem.