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If interested Glow shift sells an inline water temp setup. I put one on my 4.0 and it works well. It is inserted into the upper rad hose and has its own probe/sensor and goes to the gauge that you would need to install. I put a water and their oil pressure setup and it makes a difference. Temps run at the thermostat settings and oil pressure is good until it get real hot and then drops at idle but this is just an adapter that goes on the oil filter. go take a look they have good tech support.
I haven't had time to look into the truck since my brother been driving it but I did take a quick gander under the hood and saw coolant residue all over the fan shroud originating from the cap. I haven't tested the temperature yet but I tried to turn the compressor by hand a couple of turns and after 1/2 a turn it got so hard it was unbelievable. I'm going to place my bet with the compressor and orifice tube.
Another question I was wondering is the idle setting. I know these trucks have automatic idle but what if the previous owner messed with the idle adjustment screw? How would I go about to make sure its at its proper setting as if it came from factory?
Ditch the crappy stock plastic fan...I had a similar issue with my 88..would heat up fast idling with the a/c on. Went with a 6 blade steel fan from autozone that bolted right onto the fan clutch..engine runs waaay cooler now..did the fan swap when I lived in phoenix..I think the fan part # was for an 85 f150/bronco with the 300 i6...
I noticed that the blades of the original plastic fan would bend in toward the radiator and not pull much air through causing the engine to heat up..
So i finally got all the work done to the truck and found that the ac was a huge problm but not the entire problem. The old compressor spent more time scraping and getting stuck that was pushing freon. The truck runs way cooler now but the temp still climbs. It seems to struggle alot with the ac turned on.
So i finally got all the work done to the truck and found that the ac was a huge problm but not the entire problem. The old compressor spent more time scraping and getting stuck that was pushing freon. The truck runs way cooler now but the temp still climbs. It seems to struggle alot with the ac turned on.
Im going to look into the fan tonight
I looked on autozone's site and I believe the part # for the fan is 983619.. when I get back home I will look at the fan that I installed in my ranger and make sure that is the right part #..
I've always used new Autozone green concentrate that I personally mix to 50/50.
I'm looking into the new fan tonight. I know the old one is beyond beat up but its still in 1 piece!
I checked up on the part number and its for a 19 in fan blade. I believe I have a 17.5 in blade. Did you happen to use a spacer too? Dn29626 did you happen to verify the part number?
The more I look into fan blades the more I come across the standard rotation or reverse rotation and Im uncertain which I have. Further more, I don't know if I need a fan spacer.
I checked up on the part number and its for a 19 in fan blade. I believe I have a 17.5 in blade. Did you happen to use a spacer too? Dn29626 did you happen to verify the part number?
The more I look into fan blades the more I come across the standard rotation or reverse rotation and Im uncertain which I have. Further more, I don't know if I need a fan spacer.
you're right..I gave you the wrong size..mine is an 18"..but I did not use a flex fan..I used the fan that bolted to the Rangers fan clutch...mine is a flex-a-lite 5718.. you need a standard rotation fan..
Ill tell you what, that new fan looks bad as hell in the engine bay! It worked like a complete charm for the first week or so with the temp gauge barely going above R and now its pushing past M.
I did replace the fan clutch but my question is how freely must it spin? When the truck is cold the thing turns about 1/4 turn and when its hot-hot it turns 1/2 a turn. Keep in mind the clutch is brand new.
Ill tell you what, that new fan looks bad as hell in the engine bay! It worked like a complete charm for the first week or so with the temp gauge barely going above R and now its pushing past M.
I did replace the fan clutch but my question is how freely must it spin? When the truck is cold the thing turns about 1/4 turn and when its hot-hot it turns 1/2 a turn. Keep in mind the clutch is brand new.
strange that it was cooling real good then started running hot again..does the fan roar when the engine is heated up and you rev it? It should roar pretty good if you rev the engine up to about 1500-2000 rpm and the engine is hot...the steel fan blade is a little louder than the old plastic fan because it moves a lot more air..the blades are a little wider, and have more pitch...
pretty much the stock gauge running around the R and the M in NORMAL, is well.. normal..especially when it's over 100 out and you've got the a/c going..now if the gauge goes to the H then I would worry..my ranger runs about the same temp as yours when it's 100+ out, A/C blasting and stuck in traffic..if you're idling for a long time and it starts creeping up just fast idle it a bit (about 1500rpm) and it should cool down
Note to self: because its new dont mean its not broke.
I re-replaced the fan clutch with a new one and no more issues!.
My initial problem was that the truck would overheat in a matter of minutes with the ac on.
I went through found the condenser to be dirty, ac compress to be shot, orifice to clogged, radiator with bent fins, original fan clutch to be filthy, and fan blades to be warped and cracked. Which when I replaced everything listed significantly helped the truck cool but never while the ac was on.
NO matter how fast I'd drive down a hill, the temp gauge would climb and reach way past L before I'd shut the Ac off all together. While the gauge is a dummy item, I know if my fan couldn't cool in by L then there is something seriously wrong. And it looks like another fan clutch was the issue.
Note to self: because its new dont mean its not broke.
I re-replaced the fan clutch with a new one and no more issues!.
My initial problem was that the truck would overheat in a matter of minutes with the ac on.
I went through found the condenser to be dirty, ac compress to be shot, orifice to clogged, radiator with bent fins, original fan clutch to be filthy, and fan blades to be warped and cracked. Which when I replaced everything listed significantly helped the truck cool but never while the ac was on.
NO matter how fast I'd drive down a hill, the temp gauge would climb and reach way past L before I'd shut the Ac off all together. While the gauge is a dummy item, I know if my fan couldn't cool in by L then there is something seriously wrong. And it looks like another fan clutch was the issue.
awesome.. glad to hear you got it solved..that would've been my next recommendation.. I once got a defective fan clutch at autozone..it looked defective when they showed it to me..the silicone fluid was leaking out and I asked them about that..they said it was just oil to keep it from rusting..nope..installed it and the fan would turn by hand with very little resistance..exchanged for a new one and it was fine..