This was my first 'mod' (and is my only added gauge so far) as it reads codes and runs some basic diagnostic tests too. Mounted it to my steering column with a gauge pod for the '99 and newer superduty truck. I reshaped the auto's shifter hole for more clearance. You will enjoy yours!

 

You'll love the Aeroforce gauge, I have mine set to watch IPR%, ICP, EBP, PW, boost, trans temp, engine oil temp and volts. You can set it up to read two at a time which means four windows before repeating. My favorite gauge!

 

Yeah I've been wanting one for probably about 8 months now! I decided to hold off getting it until I had the 'new' motor in and everything was running fine.

Can the gauge read engine oil temp without an additional sensor? I know it can read a bunch of things, but I thought the oil temp needed another sensor. Maybe not because our trucks have an oil temp sensor on the HPOP reservoir don't they?

Yesterday, I accidentally pushed the pedal down harder than I wanted to (I was adjusting sitting down just driving to my neighbors house) so I accelerated pretty quickly. However, I quickly let off the pedal because of that and the Bronco died. I haven't had this happen yet but I'm wondering what would cause this.

I think I'll be looking at IPR% and ICP initially to see if something looks off there when the idling is rough and I notice the RPMs drop low between shifts. Its rough to where it seems like a cylinder is missing, but only at idle. It only does this when it's already warmed up though. I'll look into a higher weight oil like you said and see! Also, when the idle is rough, the rpms fall lower between shifts more often as well.

I'm hoping it's not an injector o-ring. I think the buzz/contribution test may point that out though if it is. That way I won't have to pull all the injectors just to find one or two with messed up o-rings.

With my dp chip, I have 3 tunes, modified stock, 60 daily, and 120 (race or something). When I have it set on the 120 setting, it definitely makes the rough idle more pronounced if (but only if I drive around on that setting, especially if it's more aggressive). The 60 setting still have a rough idle, and with the stock setting, it isn't nearly as noticeable. If I have the rough idle when I've been driving around on the 120 setting, switching to the other settings doesn't change the roughness of the idle. Only if I drive around some more on those settings will it seem to decrease it.



I'm thinking it's oil related, and that it's from a sensor like the IPR. I did replace the o-rings on this one, but I didn't open it up or anything. I still have the newer spare cps on my old motor, and it's original one in my glovebox (I replaced it on my first motor when it didn't need it.)






Side note, speaking of cooling things down, my buddy picked up an early 99 spider for my and the intercooler as well! I need to find or fabricate some pipes for that now (after I give my friend the money for the items) but that will be nice to have that! Maybe I'll try to put a fuel cooler on the return line as well while installing the intercooler setup. I can't see it hurting anything if I do it!

 

No extra sensor needed for oil temp. Except for tuning I don't know what to tell you.

 

I have several Green light Scan Gauges on the shelf ready to shift, let me know if interested.

As for the fuel cooler idea, I installed one when I did my whole e-fuel deal on my '96 almost 15 years ago. I put one out front of the radiator going -to- the motor. But since then I have read that you want it on the return side so as not to heat the fuel tank up. I never had the motivation to move it, so it's still there. Keeping fuel cooler will help with the burn, with ANY fuel, so it's never a bad idea.
FWIW oem 6.4's have fuel coolers, too.

 

Dang I was going to see if you had them and buy from you, but I couldn't navigate the internet well on my phone so I bought it from the website! I know my friend wants one soon so I will tell him you have a couple of them!

I think I'll go ahead and try to do a fuel cooler soon if it's going to help with a better burn! I need to get my buzz/contribution test codes sorted out before I delve too much into that though!

 

Aeroforce also has great customer service. When my truck caught fire the gauge got hot and didn't work right. After sending it in and paying a small cost it came back and still acted up. They said to send it back in again and they fixed it for free this time and its been working good.

 

I have been to the Aeroforce shop, they are somewhat local to me. They are great guys (and gal if I recall), but typically don't keep stuff ready to ship so there's usually a delay, which is why I buy several at a time.

 

You too can make 3000.00 a week from home. Selling snake oil like this LOL

 

You mean you don't think the fuel cooler is a good idea?

From what I can find, it doesn't seem to be something people tend to do on our trucks, but I figure if I can mock up some lines for about 30 dollars and use the new power steering cooler I never opened I have sitting around, it wouldn't be a bad thing to do!

The inside of my engine bay seems to get quite a bit hotter than I remember with the last motor I had in there, so I'm looking at ways to keep things cooler!

I will say, that Aeroforce gauge seems like it will come in really handy though. The buzz test from it made me realize my valve cover harness is bad (so I accidentally must have swapped my old one on instead of the one I purchased recently before doing the motor swap.) Well, I'm hoping it's just the valve cover harness at least. The injectors have to be good, and the IDM should be good too (for having gone through 2 other ones last year.)

Anyways, my motor may be cool enough for me to do some more tinkering so I better get back at it.

 

In the AG world of John Deere the fuel coolers are allways in the retun side to cool the fuel in the tank. It all has to do with emmissions therefore i dont belive a fuel cooler would be to effective unless your trying to clean up the emmissions