Towing with Pro Comp 6" lift 2WD 7.3
#1
Towing with Pro Comp 6" lift 2WD 7.3
Was considering just doing front F350 springs to level my X. But with it, alignment, shocks and possibly rear F250 rear springs the cost isn't much different. So I am considering the 6" lift for my truck but my only hesitation is towing 8k or so with it. I don't like white knuckle driving and want to tow safely. So my question is what will the lift for to my towing ability
#2
I've had the 6 inch Procomp lift on my 2wd Excursion since August 2007 and it was one of the best decisions I made when it came to the suspension for my 2wd Excursion.
Towing is actually a dream with that lift, I've pulled as much as 10K with it and never knew it was behind me. Hardly any white knuckle driving it actually made the truck more stable. One thing I would suggest is adding and F350 rear sway bar. It really helps control the body roll and the truck is just more sure footed.
The other thing is gears, if you plan on running 35s on the factory mags like I do (315/75/16) 4.10 gears with a Detroit Tru-trac (especially if you have an open diff like I do) will give you the best traction, towing, and an effective ratio of 3.73 with your 35s. This will lead to better mileage and towing power post lift and tires.
Also if you plan on lifting and towing, I'd recommend a BTS valve body to strengthen the trans.
Towing is actually a dream with that lift, I've pulled as much as 10K with it and never knew it was behind me. Hardly any white knuckle driving it actually made the truck more stable. One thing I would suggest is adding and F350 rear sway bar. It really helps control the body roll and the truck is just more sure footed.
The other thing is gears, if you plan on running 35s on the factory mags like I do (315/75/16) 4.10 gears with a Detroit Tru-trac (especially if you have an open diff like I do) will give you the best traction, towing, and an effective ratio of 3.73 with your 35s. This will lead to better mileage and towing power post lift and tires.
Also if you plan on lifting and towing, I'd recommend a BTS valve body to strengthen the trans.
#3
I've had the 6 inch Procomp lift on my 2wd Excursion since August 2007 and it was one of the best decisions I made when it came to the suspension for my 2wd Excursion.
Towing is actually a dream with that lift, I've pulled as much as 10K with it and never knew it was behind me. Hardly any white knuckle driving it actually made the truck more stable. One thing I would suggest is adding and F350 rear sway bar. It really helps control the body roll and the truck is just more sure footed.
The other thing is gears, if you plan on running 35s on the factory mags like I do (315/75/16) 4.10 gears with a Detroit Tru-trac (especially if you have an open diff like I do) will give you the best traction, towing, and an effective ratio of 3.73 with your 35s. This will lead to better mileage and towing power post lift and tires.
Also if you plan on lifting and towing, I'd recommend a BTS valve body to strengthen the trans.
Towing is actually a dream with that lift, I've pulled as much as 10K with it and never knew it was behind me. Hardly any white knuckle driving it actually made the truck more stable. One thing I would suggest is adding and F350 rear sway bar. It really helps control the body roll and the truck is just more sure footed.
The other thing is gears, if you plan on running 35s on the factory mags like I do (315/75/16) 4.10 gears with a Detroit Tru-trac (especially if you have an open diff like I do) will give you the best traction, towing, and an effective ratio of 3.73 with your 35s. This will lead to better mileage and towing power post lift and tires.
Also if you plan on lifting and towing, I'd recommend a BTS valve body to strengthen the trans.
Any reason you wouldn't go with 4.30s with 35 inch tires? Also, what advantages does the Tru-Trac have over a Detroit Locker? Thx.
#4
4.10's with 35's give the closest ratio to stock.
4.30's with 37 give the closest ratio to stock.
A Truetrac is a geared, limited slip diff. A locker is always closed and locked, never open.
Stewart
#6
Originally Posted by Stewart_H
With the 7.3L, the RPM's will be too high at freeway speeds.
4.10's with 35's give the closest ratio to stock.
4.30's with 37 give the closest ratio to stock.
A Truetrac is a geared, limited slip diff. A locker is always closed and locked, never open.
Stewart
4.10's with 35's give the closest ratio to stock.
4.30's with 37 give the closest ratio to stock.
A Truetrac is a geared, limited slip diff. A locker is always closed and locked, never open.
Stewart
#7
A Truetrac is open and "tightens up" to transfer power to the wheel with more traction
A Trutrac should be seamless you should not know you even have it on the street most of the time. Functions like an open diff on dry pavement. On the street you should not have any "one tire fire" on wet pavement, gravel or sand or leaves on roadway.... if one wheel has LIMITED traction it will transfer power to the opposite wheel. same for off-road it will help and be smooth. If one tire has ZERO traction up in the air, glare ice, any other near zero traction situation you may need to ride the brake to make it work.
A Truetrac should have better street manners
Edit I added some things
Last edited by brandon_oma#692; 06-22-2017 at 12:18 PM. Reason: I added some things
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#8
Thanks Razzi! I certainly try to avoid those types of mistakes. That's one of the incredibly valuable aspects of the site; getting input from you guys that know way more than I do!
#9
Here is my Detroit locker thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-no-spin.html I need to go back and add more info for future readers.
I am very happy with mine but I agree it is not for everyone. I have not driven it in the winter yet and hope I feel the same come next spring. I feel a heavy long wheelbase truck will be less affected by its "manners" than a light short wheelbase truck.
A Detroit Locker will always go. I bought mine because I did not want to try riding the brakes when I get stuck.
Pre locker pictures. backed in and spun out. let it sit a day to dry some, filled my holes with wet clay dirt and put down planks to back the rest of the way in.
edit I added some things
I am very happy with mine but I agree it is not for everyone. I have not driven it in the winter yet and hope I feel the same come next spring. I feel a heavy long wheelbase truck will be less affected by its "manners" than a light short wheelbase truck.
A Detroit Locker will always go. I bought mine because I did not want to try riding the brakes when I get stuck.
Pre locker pictures. backed in and spun out. let it sit a day to dry some, filled my holes with wet clay dirt and put down planks to back the rest of the way in.
It is locked most of the time and locked is the default position. I read somewhere it is better to think of it as an "unlocker". If not under load when turning the outer wheel will unlock and can "coast" or be driven by the road FASTER than the ring gear and inside wheel.
Here is a video that shows it somewhat. Start at 2 minutes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ekgBnktLw8k
Here is a video that shows it somewhat. Start at 2 minutes https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ekgBnktLw8k
Last edited by brandon_oma#692; 06-22-2017 at 12:18 PM. Reason: I added some things
#12
To elaborate on what Pirate wrote, The Dana 50 is an open differential from Ford. There are almost no aftermarket options for it. The Dana 60, on the other hand, has a ton of aftermarket limited slip, lockers, truetrac, etc available for it.
#14