E 350 blower motor
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 3,677
Likes: 172
All my vans are 80' models and I had a 90 Town car with the same problem, blower only running on high. On those models, they have a Blower Motor Resistor mounted under the hood in the AC/heater housing cover. If it goes bad the fan will only blow on high...
Rock auto lists one for your van also...
Front heat/ac = YH1697 {#4C2Z19A706AA}
Rear heat/ac = YH1698 {#4C2Z19A706BA}
I know a lot of the newer vans have electronic climate controls though.. Maybe someone else will chime in..
This is a video a guy made about his 2007 E150 with the blower not blowing at all... At 12:14 he shines a light on the "bower motor resistor"... There is also a lot of other good information in the video showing fuses and controls..
Rock auto lists one for your van also...
Front heat/ac = YH1697 {#4C2Z19A706AA}
Rear heat/ac = YH1698 {#4C2Z19A706BA}
I know a lot of the newer vans have electronic climate controls though.. Maybe someone else will chime in..
This is a video a guy made about his 2007 E150 with the blower not blowing at all... At 12:14 he shines a light on the "bower motor resistor"... There is also a lot of other good information in the video showing fuses and controls..
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 8
annaleigh pegged it 
It's the Resistor that controls the speeds, and with only high, it needs replacing.
I did my '05, and ended up getting the wire pigtail/connector also, the OEM was "welded" to the resistor, and no way it was coming off.
If you order the resistor, get the connector also.
Note, you'll need to remove the battery and the battery tray to get to the resistor.
It's the Resistor that controls the speeds, and with only high, it needs replacing.
I did my '05, and ended up getting the wire pigtail/connector also, the OEM was "welded" to the resistor, and no way it was coming off.
If you order the resistor, get the connector also.
Note, you'll need to remove the battery and the battery tray to get to the resistor.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 3,677
Likes: 172
here is a good video showing how "a" resistor works and how how to test the resistor. As the guy mentions towards the end of the video,,"DO NOT" test the resistor without it being installed in the case, it can blow the thermal fuse on the resistor with no air flow over it!
Here is a video about changing the resistor and how to get the connector apart if it is stuck.. In the video the guy does not replace the connector but I would follow Wildman25's advice and use a new pigtail. I don't know the proper terms but once the metal connectors get hot the metal changes properties and will no longer make a good connection no matter how well you clean the terminals. The wire to the connector may also get hot an inch or so from the connector and change conductance properties. So if you change the connector, and you should, clip the wires back a couple of inches from the old connector till you see nice new looking copper wire.....
Here is a video about changing the resistor and how to get the connector apart if it is stuck.. In the video the guy does not replace the connector but I would follow Wildman25's advice and use a new pigtail. I don't know the proper terms but once the metal connectors get hot the metal changes properties and will no longer make a good connection no matter how well you clean the terminals. The wire to the connector may also get hot an inch or so from the connector and change conductance properties. So if you change the connector, and you should, clip the wires back a couple of inches from the old connector till you see nice new looking copper wire.....
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