87 302 F150 RWD

I've been dealing with clutch release issues...still

I seemed to have fixed it by extending the clutch master cyl. pushrod all the way out. I thought I had finally found closure. I was wrong. After about 100 miles of driving, the 2 pieces snapped, as I only had it grabbing by a few threads, and the jam nut. There was not enough thread engagement to keep a structurally secure rod. I was about 100 miles away from home when this happened, and luckily the threads were in ok enough condition to thread it back on to get me home. Problem is, the threads on the master cylinder end are bent, see pic.




Enjoy my artistic masterpiece. Because of this, the rod is no longer straight, the threads are barely passable, and the "eye" that sits on the pedal bracket **** thing with the bushing, does not go on straight, and it works its way off over time. When I was stranded, I had to zip tie the pushrod in place to get me home.

What I need to know:
-are there any known clutch pushrods for these trucks that are longer than average, so I can have the length I need, with proper thread engagement? I have a new master on there, and it came with a new pushrod, that happened to be shorter than the one that was on the truck. It was Exedy brand. What brand is the longest?

-How do I get the male end, (the master cylinder end) of the pushrod out? When I put it in, I just slipped it in the boot of the master and it was held in there with the force of the clutch pedal, at least I think... I have no idea how to pull it out to replace it.

Before anyone says anything, I did do the firewall plate install. The master and slave are new. When the pushrod is properly extended, the gears shift like butter, which is a drastic difference from what I was dealing with before.

This is the final step in me having my truck where I want it to be. Thanks for any and all help!

 

Adjustable pushrod - RockAuto - RockAuto - If it's too short, you can re-clock the arm that goes between the pedal shaft and the pushrod.

The pushrod "snaps" into the master cylinder with a clip that works sorta like a fuel line quick-release. You may be able to put a one or two small screwdrivers in there on either side of what's left of the rod, and just fiddle with them while pulling on the rod, and it should eventually pop out. Hard to explain exactly, just something you have to... fiddle with.

 

Awesome info. I've dealt with fuel line clips before, so I can probably get this out. It snaps in behind a boot so I was somewhat working blindly.

What do you mean by reclock it? I know what reclocking is, however which piece exactly gets adjusted?

Thanks again madpogue

 

The pedal box shaft is splined on the end. So you can remove the arm from the shaft and rotate it one notch on the splines and reattach it. To remove it, mark the position, then LOOSEN the nut, then pry behind it with TWO small pry bars or screwdrivers. It's TIGHT on the splines, which is why you want to keep the nut on loose, so the arm doesn't go flying when it gets free from the splines. THEN remove the nut and slip the arm off.

 

I just ordered a part to make the need of the pushrod into a heim joint. Should work pretty well but my problem is the clutch and brake pedal assembly bracket. When I push the clutch in it moves the bracket instead of pushing in the pushrod. Take a look under the removable panel under your dash and look up at the aluminum bracketry and make sure it's not cracked or broken like mine

 

I have a 1988 F 450, w/ Manual trans. I replaced the master cylinder & slave about a yr ago.
The Master cylinder came with a NEW push rod and the plastic spline bushing for the eye of the pushrod. the bushing now is worn and the clutch pedal travels quite a bit. I looked at the pushrod rod end and there is definitely wear. You posted a help to another person, about a Hyme Joint for aftermarket replacement of the spline bushing. I watched a couple utube videos on this replacement. However I'm finding a real difficulty in finding a Hyme Joint that is shown in the Utube. CAn you tell me where I can find one of these Hyme joints. Ebay offers them but none match the utube. Kris

 

this is the one I bought. Looks exactly like the one on youtube
http://m.ebay.com/itm/261851765088?_mwBanner=1

 

Thank you. Did you have any problems in installing this HEIM joint? As I said I watched the video several times. the only question I have is indexing the clutch pedal linkage bar, before removal, so that it can be re-installed in the exact relationship it was removed. The video suggests installing the NEw push rod end, i.e. HEIM joint, and tightening, connecting to the clutch pedal linkage bar to the HEIM joint, then reinstalling the clutch linkage bar back on the splines of the bolt for the linkage bar.
thanks for your help. Kris

 

im supposed to get it today and i will be installing it tomorrow. I will let you know how it goes

 

Thank you. Mine is in the mail, so if you could let me know what you experienced I would appreciate it. Kris

 

as you can see mine desperately needed this upgrade. As far as the directions go: it said to use an 11/16 socket. Mine didn't fit right and I ended up using a 19 mm. The directions said to use two screwdrivers and pry off the bracket. This did not work for me. After prying and tapping and prying some more for over an hour and got smart and tapped the rod through the bracket. This will move your clutch pedal over. Just tap it enough for the bracket to fall off. The rod will come back over when you tighten the bracket back on.

 

Yes your pushrod was much worse than mine.
Thank you for the information on the Clutch pedal linkage bar, how difficult it was to come off, your attempts to remove it, and your fix. This was all my concern, from the video it looked much simpler. Plus there isn't a whole lot of room to get a pry bar up in there.
What did you do about indexing the clutch pedal linkage bar before removing it? Kris

 

yeah it seemed way easier in the video, I even had an actual pry bar and tapping on the bracket while prying and could not get it off. I didn't mark it or anything I just took it off. I put the pushrod linkage together and with the pedal all the way up I put the bracket back on and tightened it up.

 

The pedal no longer has play in it and I am very happy with this little upgrade

 

Did you, dimple/indent the pushrod to provide for a better seat for the HEIM joint set screw? Is this necessary? Have you experienced any slippage of the clutch pedal, due to the HEIM joint slipping, now that you have driven the vehicle? Kris