Alright everyone I am new to this site so bare with me. I purchased a 93 f-150 5.0 automatic with a bad e4od so I planned on doing a 5 speed swap. Over a amount of time i found everything i needed and i did the swap, it all went great and worked perfectly. At the end of winter this past year the 5.0 started knocking so i pulled it out and swapped the wiring harness for a 96 5.8 wiring harness. My uncle gave me a 96 5.8 so i figured i would put it to use. A few months and a good amount of money later i got my 351w back from the machine shop and now im ready to rebuild it. While it was at the machine shop i got them to bore it .030 over, turn the crank, balance it, install new freeze plugs, cam bearings, and hot tank it. I will be running after market heads, headers, and i have deleted the egr and o2 sensor(the motor already had a smog delete pulley). I am trying to find the best cam for what i do with the truck. It is lifted 6 inches and running 35s and i plan to swap the gears from 3.55 to 4.10. I do pull a car trailer when it is needed and i may be purchasing a pop up camper in the future. Let me know what yall think.Thanks in advance!

 

So you're running open loop full time? Is this the stock PCM? Why did you want to ditch oxygen sensors, if not going carb? I understand EGR, but how do you keep the PCM happy? 1996 F150/Bronco were EEC-V and had no air pump, but better catalysts so it wasn't needed to meet emissions. They also had sequential injection. Add a tuner and you've got a good system for mods..but need feedbacks via oxygen sensors or wide band to run at peak.

You're probably going to need more fuel than the 19lb/hr injectors can supply if going with aftermarket heads, headers, intake, and cam.

I would have liked to try a Comp Cams 35-512-8 cam on my build with 1.7 ratio roller rockers. Looks to build strong low end torque but pull higher than stock but be mild overall. I installed the comp cam software on my computer to check out torque curves (inflated hp/tq numbers but pretty accurate on what rpm will be peak output). I went cheap bc my factory cam was in good shape, and only went to 1.7 ratio rockers, which works well but it doesn't do much over ~4200rpm. 35-510-8 with 1.6 ratio rockers would be a more aggressive option, but with 112 LSA should be ok with MAF EFI. Aftermarket heads typically can flow much more than any ford casting, so you'll benefit from the extra lift and duration.

Which heads are you going with?

If you're swapping gears and want to run 35"s I'd go to 4.56's instead of 4:10. 4:10 is for 33s in my opinion.

 

I don't understand deleting the o2 sensor either, it makes it run better...not worse.

the cam selection depends on what you want to do with the truck, whether you'll be towing more often than not. I'd consider a stroker too if you have the extra dough. Crane 444211 is an excellent alternative to the stock cam for brute drivability and good top end. Gotta get rid of the stock 351 intake also, and don't put giant port aftermarket heads on your 351.

Sounds like it'll be a sweet ride.

 

It is the stock pcm, i deleted the o2 sensor so i didnt have to put holes in my new headers and the o2 sensor delete kit i bought basically says that it will always tell the computer that the truck is running great.The heads i will be running are the Flo-Tek 203505, the specs are:
- 58cc combustion chamber
- 180cc intake runners, 62cc exhaust runners
- intake valve 1.94, exhaust valve diameter 1.54
- spring diameter 1.47
- .550 lift valve springs
- 130lb spring seat pressure
- 3/8 rocker studs

On the tires and gear ratio, my buddy ran 35s with 4.10s and you cant tell it even has big tires so i thought 4.56 would be too much but i dont know.

 

Put the O2 sensor(s) in the headers. Fooling the computer will only hurt performance since it won't know how to properly adjust fuel. Probably will run rich in some cases and too lean in others.

I have 4:10 gears in my Bronco with 35s and it runs pretty good. I didn't go lower since I have a C6 and need to run on the highway. If I had overdrive I might have gone lower.

 

I have NO idea how running without O2 sensors is going to work for you for a MAF setup...maybe if you junk all the EFI logic and hardware and swap to carb?
And everyone is going to tell you to install them....

So...I would send the "kit" back, and use that money for O2 sensor bung(s) and call it a day.
If you end up running rich, you may run the risk of damaging the cylinder walls from unburnt fuel diluting the oil.
If you run to lean..*PING*, then detonation, then blowing a hole in the piston, or the piston(s) grenades in the cylinder....

 

You'll need the o2 sensor in order to allow the eec to compensate for your changes in the engine. A simulator will supply a steady voltage to the computer and is really only designed go prevent a check engine light....and there's no guarantee that it will even do that. You will be running very lean without an o2 sensor.

With those heads, you'll want to save up for a tune and 24 lb injectors.

 

Okay since everyone is saying i need the o2 sensor then i will look into getting that situated. Since my truck only has one o2 sensor and i will be running true duals will that make a difference? Oh and on the injectors can i just run 460 injectors?

 

Yeah, a set of 24s from a 460 would do fine.

You can put the o2 in one bank, no problem there. If you care, you will lose low end hp by going true duals over a high flowing y pipe.

 

Would the power loss be noticeable? Im trying to get the most power i can out of the 351 without spending a pile of money. Also I have heard that i should not just bolt on the aftermarket heads, what should i look for before i do bolt them on or would it be a better idea to take them to the machine shop and get them to look the heads over?

 

Whether it's noticeable is entirely dependent on your setup and possibly transmission. The loss will come in the form of part throttle cruise, like how much throttle you need to give it to maintain speed or lug up a hill. If this is something you don't want to sacrifice, and have a real crispy throttle pedal, stick with a good y pipe.

 

From what truck? An F150/Bronco or an F250/350?

Again, from what truck? An F150/ Bronco or an F250/350?
This makes a big difference, if it was a 1/2 ton truck then that is an OBD2 harness and you need the matching computer, if it was from an HD truck it's most likely an SD harness which is the same as what you took out and no good to you for a modified motor. And if the motor is from a 1/2 ton it will have a few unique for '96 parts that you need to go with the OBD2 harness but if it's from an HD truck it won't because it is SD and OBD1.



You can't delete the upstream O2 sensor.. period. This cripples the EFI system you may as well put a carb on it. A single sensor in the passenger side header collector works perfectly.


Given an OD trans 3.73 is pretty much the ideal ratio for a truck with 31" tires that will do some towing, to match that with 35" tires you need 4.30 gears. The Comp cams 35-512-8 would be a good candidate.

 

Do you have a plan? Have you talked to an engine builder who can put you together a plan to have the right compression, quench, cam profile and timing, and ignition timing curve? I hope so.

 

Good questions Paul (edit: and Hardscrabble), I'm interested to hear his answers. I made a few assumptions in my reply. Namely, that he swapped in a EEC-V/OBDII wiring harness with MAF out of a 96' F150/Bronco. Probably a little naive on my part. His mention of idler in place of the air pump suggests that (this was factory for EEC-V/OBDII 5.8L's), but the single oxygen sensor suggests he has an EEC-IV/OBDI system in place.

As to the 460 injectors; you'll want to tune for them. I would not "just run 460 injectors".

You mention not wanting to spend a lot. In researching my build, it seemed to me that exceeding ~300hp made cost fall off a cliff. Carefully evaluate your budget/what you're willing to spend before you start buying parts.

 

This is BS, he could calculate that stuff on his own.