1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Sputtered then stalled-now crank no start-no spark

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  #46  
Old 07-06-2017, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
So, that's not a firing order, it is the plug locations.
"Plug locations" and "firing order" is the same thing.
What am I not understanding here?
 
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Old 07-06-2017, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by CountryBumkin
"Plug locations" and "firing order" is the same thing.
What am I not understanding here?
Not on the Duraspark III distributor cap. The Duraspark III rotor has two electrodes on either side that fire alternatively. So firing order is the same but the order the plugs on the distributor is CCW 1 5 7 8 6 3 4 2
 
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Old 07-06-2017, 09:59 AM
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Ahh - this:
 
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  #49  
Old 07-06-2017, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by rodp14
Agreeing with you more and more everyday. Did some research and it would cost me about 75$ if I were to find a truck comparable at a junkyard.

Anyways, went back to it for the first time in about 3 days and interestingly enough she almost started, turned over for less than a sec. I had the wife crank it while I moved the dizzy around but not sure whether it sounded like it wanted to start because I was doing that or because it is severely flooded and the couple days I didn't mess with it gave it some time to recover.

But, its starting to crank slow, pretty sure its the starter relay. Going to pickup one, change the oil, and tinker around a bit more today.
Anyone know what the resistance should be for the spark plug wires. I tested them with a multimeter ( one end probing the distributor contact, one end probing the spark plug boot) and all read over 5k ohms. Read somewhere that any wires over 5k should be replaced. If so, I'm going to go ahead and replace them and the plugs.
Hang onto your old solenoid. The new ones like to stick and add to your troubles sometimes.
 
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Old 07-06-2017, 06:47 PM
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Just uploading the right side pages to the 2 posted pages above; From the 83' EVTM.




 
  #51  
Old 07-06-2017, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by rodp14
But, its starting to crank slow, pretty sure its the starter relay.
If you have the means, you may want to put your battery on charge in between trouble shooting events.
 
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Old 07-06-2017, 07:50 PM
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She finally kicked over..
Changed the oil, starter relay and adjusted the float on the carb and it took a bit of cranking but she turned..
Does not sound the greatest though..believe I got a misfire?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4...Xpid0hIbWNsVG8
 
  #53  
Old 07-08-2017, 11:17 PM
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Quick question..the ford sticker under the hood (right above the radiator) states that the truck has an eecIII ignition and because of this " the choke is not adjustable." The previous owner installed a new carb less than a year ago but it has a manual choke. Thinking maybe this may be causing some of my problems. Also my spark plugs are pretty black-they seem to be carbon fouled-which means my engine is running rich. Anyone with eec know if its possible to have a manual choke? If so I'll just go ahead and try adjusting the carb.
 
  #54  
Old 07-09-2017, 05:59 AM
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Sure it's possible to have a manual choke - as long as you control it the same way the EEC would. Does the carb have feedback control?


Was whole carb changed - or just the choke mechanism?
 
  #55  
Old 07-09-2017, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rodp14
Quick question..the ford sticker under the hood (right above the radiator) states that the truck has an eecIII ignition and because of this " the choke is not adjustable.".
I'd say that is a Motorcraft 7200 Carb ?
 
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