Starting woes...
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Junior User
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Starting woes...
To begin I have a 1990 F-350 crew cab long bed with a 460 engine and a E4OD.
So, truck is headed back to the shop to receive it's warranty starter and starter solenoid. In the past year I've put at least 4 of each on. Is this a common thing due to heat or is it something else like a voltage issue? My tow driver started saying I should look into a high torque starter and something called a solenoid block? I know what the starter is and, I know why they are priced high but I can't find info on a solenoid block.
side bar when truck has just finished running and still warm it takes a lot to start it. As in turning key and the engine rotates very slowly almost like a dead battery or dying battery. Is this a timing issue or an engine heat issue?
So, truck is headed back to the shop to receive it's warranty starter and starter solenoid. In the past year I've put at least 4 of each on. Is this a common thing due to heat or is it something else like a voltage issue? My tow driver started saying I should look into a high torque starter and something called a solenoid block? I know what the starter is and, I know why they are priced high but I can't find info on a solenoid block.
side bar when truck has just finished running and still warm it takes a lot to start it. As in turning key and the engine rotates very slowly almost like a dead battery or dying battery. Is this a timing issue or an engine heat issue?
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2012
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Are these cheap autoparts store brand re-man starters? If so that might be what we could call "normal" as re-man starter seem to have gotten worse and worse over the last decade.
If this is a remanufactured Ford starter I would hope if wouldn't be going out on you like that. (I tried to find a new ford starter for my 97, but all that was available was Ford re-man and so far so good)
I would:
1:make sure battery is healthy
2: Check for bad/corroded wires and connection points leading from battery to fender mounted solenoid and starter
3: check health/corrosion of fender mounted solenoid (this might be the "solenoid block" they were talking about)
4
laces like summit and jegs sell special high torque starters intended for race engines. This might be necessary if you have high compression, or just can't find any other quality starters.
5:Consider changing starter yourself, its a 15 minute operation usually involving only a couple of bolts and wires. That is unless your 460 hides it under an exhaust manifold or something. Do you have stock exhaust?
Hope you aren't getting stuck with the tow fee
If this is a remanufactured Ford starter I would hope if wouldn't be going out on you like that. (I tried to find a new ford starter for my 97, but all that was available was Ford re-man and so far so good)
I would:
1:make sure battery is healthy
2: Check for bad/corroded wires and connection points leading from battery to fender mounted solenoid and starter
3: check health/corrosion of fender mounted solenoid (this might be the "solenoid block" they were talking about)
4
laces like summit and jegs sell special high torque starters intended for race engines. This might be necessary if you have high compression, or just can't find any other quality starters.5:Consider changing starter yourself, its a 15 minute operation usually involving only a couple of bolts and wires. That is unless your 460 hides it under an exhaust manifold or something. Do you have stock exhaust?
Hope you aren't getting stuck with the tow fee
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Junior User
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These are motor craft parts they have been using. Batt is brand new, wire from Batt to solenoid brand new, wire from solenoid to starter brand new. Originally went to the shop because it just wouldn't start it would crank all day but no fire but now it's just been them scratching the heads saying must be bad parts but I can't imagine this many time in a row and no I'm not having to pay the tow but me and the driver are starting to be good friends so there is at least one benefit!
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,305
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no, it's absolutely not normal to go through starters that quickly.
sounds like you have a hard time starting the engine and because of that, are burning out starters with excessively long cranks. try pulling codes and see if that turns up any clues. also, it wouldn't hurt to check fuel pressure.
sounds like you have a hard time starting the engine and because of that, are burning out starters with excessively long cranks. try pulling codes and see if that turns up any clues. also, it wouldn't hurt to check fuel pressure.
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Well it's sitting at the shop now so I can't until probably Tuesday, but I do know pressure was sitting right about 35 last I checked, code were for my eye being disconnected, and for a rear pump. In terms of the egr it's due to the down pipe is missing and there is a bolt in the manifold to pick it (previous owner) and I've replaced the rear pump but it still comes up so not sure what's elating there.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2012
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no, it's absolutely not normal to go through starters that quickly.
sounds like you have a hard time starting the engine and because of that, are burning out starters with excessively long cranks. try pulling codes and see if that turns up any clues. also, it wouldn't hurt to check fuel pressure.
sounds like you have a hard time starting the engine and because of that, are burning out starters with excessively long cranks. try pulling codes and see if that turns up any clues. also, it wouldn't hurt to check fuel pressure.
I'm not saying it's normal, I was saying it's unfortunate how poor re-man starters are getting.
Personally I have had 5 free replacements for the same vehicle. Luckily it had a lifetime warranty, and the counter guys don't care. Junk rebuilds, luckily it was a vehicle they were easy to replace.
I agree with you about the long cranks being a possible culprit.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2013
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yeah, i got what you were saying. my reply was directly to the question in the OP.
couldnt agree more about the junk rebuilds and even brand new junk being sold these days. the joy of a lifetime warranty would wear thin after a few re & re jobs. it has gotten so bad that even a life-long cheapskate like me is re-evaluating his purchasing habits.
couldnt agree more about the junk rebuilds and even brand new junk being sold these days. the joy of a lifetime warranty would wear thin after a few re & re jobs. it has gotten so bad that even a life-long cheapskate like me is re-evaluating his purchasing habits.
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Junior User
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So now that we've covered the remans are trash are we also saying motor craft is reman also? Next any thoughts on how to mitigate this issue? I'm needing to drive this truck from ft worth Texas to las Vegas Nevada pulling a 79 bronco the entire way
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From: FL & NY
Re: Starting problem, a couple of hints
1) Reduce voltage drop -
Replace Pos., Neg., and batt to solenoid cables with 2 ga wire and crimp on
battery terminal ends (NOT clamp on).
Route and bolt ground cable as close to starter as possible.
Load test battery and test alternator output
2) Battery
Verify that the battery is the largest that will fit in the battery box and has the highest CCA (cold cranking amps) available for the size of the battery.
3) Alternator
Check belt tension
1) Reduce voltage drop -
Replace Pos., Neg., and batt to solenoid cables with 2 ga wire and crimp on
battery terminal ends (NOT clamp on).
Route and bolt ground cable as close to starter as possible.
Load test battery and test alternator output
2) Battery
Verify that the battery is the largest that will fit in the battery box and has the highest CCA (cold cranking amps) available for the size of the battery.
3) Alternator
Check belt tension
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 567
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My apologies if I made it seem as if I were talking about Motorcraft remans being garbage, that was not the intent. I have about a year and a half on mine and it's still working fine so we'll see.
Any of the store brand "Start-MAXXX!!!!" type starter though, I woulden't trust as far as I can throw it...