hey guys and gals, so I replaced the ignition actuator rod in my 84 bronco (it was broke in the column) and now when I go to start it the starter stays engaged even with the key removed... im stumped any ideas out there?

 

The actuator is connected to the key switch so it should stop pressing the start button as soon as you turn the key back. If it discconected itself after install it could possibly turned foward and is not returning.

If that is not true, the only thing that starts your motor after the actuator is the starter solenoid. It may be sticking after engaging.

 

Did you check for correct IGN SW adjustment after rod install?

 

THIS HAS ME TOTALLY STUMPED, THE IGNTION SWITH IS SET RIGHT, EVERYTHING IS CONNECTED, I TRIED REPLACING THE STAER SOLENOID AND EVEN PUT ANOTHER NEW IGNITION SWITCH AND ITS STILL STAYING ENGAGED WITH THE KEY OUT

 

Are you feeling the actuator sliding back and forth? Is the button in the end of it getting jammed? If the truck started doing this after you replaced it, I figure your problem is still in the column.

Does it do it after you hook the battery up or after the key is turned forward?

 

I do feel the actuator sliding, it had this problem before I replaced everything. a friend suggested the solenoid may be wired wrong so im gonna check that when I get off duty tonight. it engages when I turn the key but wont disengage until I disconnect the battery. it doesn't engage when the battery is reconnected until I turn the key

 

RELAY maybe, it is the thingie on inner fender that the cables go to.
Solenoid is on the starter.

 

So what happened first?

Starter stays engaged or actuator rod broke?

After reading your posts I am kind of confused.

A) If the truck was starting ok and the rod broke, you need to figure out why it broke.

B) If the truck started having the sticking solenoid and then the rod broke. You need to figure out why.

You need to check the signal wire that goes to the solenoid, it should only have power on it in the "start" position only.

 

When you replaced the actuator rod, were you aware that there are TWO different types?

The actuator rod attaches to the actuator, there are TWO different types of these.

The difference: With or without tilt steering wheel.

1978/91 F100/350, Bronco & Econoline: Tilt steering wheel operated by pressing the T/S handle forward.

 

let me give backstory to try and make light of this thing.
the truck was always taken care of, my dad was the original owner. my mom(not the nicest lady around) made him park it. fast forward 15 years, my dad gives me the truck as a graduation present. I put a new battery and new cables on it and the card was so gunked up that the butterflys wouldn't open. pulled the carb off and cleaned it up some then put it on, tried to start it and it would start idle to about 3000 rpms then stall out. went through and replaced the entire fuel system(new tank,seniding unit, pump,lines, rebuilt carb) put new plugs/wires and oil change. the rod broke but I was new to mechanics and thought that the firewall mounted solenoid( starter doesn't have one mounted on it) was out so I replaced that along with the starter. then I put a new ignition switch and that's when I heard about that ignition rod(did get the one for tilt steering, which my truck has) and replaced that. had to rewire the solenoid so its wired correctly and now it doesn't turn over at all with the key but it does by jumping the posts. and when it does fire up the pedal has to be floored while dumping gas down the carb and it will idle to about 2000 rpm then stall out. im not sure if that helps at all but this is where im at now... any suggestions at all would help

 

If it's an automatic check the neutral safety switch for the no crank. If it would crank with the key before go back to that and try adjusting the ignition switch. If it's out of adjustment it will cause the starter to stay engaged after start. Saw a lot of cars and trucks have this problem with newer style with switch on top of the column and operated by a rod. If you're having to pour gas down the carburetor to get it to run then you are still not getting fuel. Who rebuilt the carb? Sounds like maybe floats may be out of adjustment so no fuel in the float bowls. Hence no run. Also check the fuel pump to see if it's actually pumping.. also any loose connections on the suction and it'll fail to prime so no gas.

 

thank you for the advice, as far as the carb goes it was a friend of my dads that "rebuilt" the carb, ill check the pump, i'm starting to wonder if when I put it in I didn't get it set right and that it may not be pumping at all