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is there room behind the headliner, kick panels, below back window, etc.. for sound deadening material? I see LMC has a whole interior headliner and kickpanel kit, but I was wondering if I could add another layer to keep it from being so "tinny" sounding. thanks
A few months ago I bought the Dynamat 10455 pack but haven't installed it yet partly because I have some of the same questions that you do so. And I haven't decided what headline I'm going with so I'll be following this thread.
To answer your question with one word: Yes. The sound deadner is very thin, whether it is Dyanamat or or roofing material. There is at least 3/4 of an inch between the liner and the metal interior. In most cases, even more space is available.
If we're talking about the Bonus Built model (48-52), they have space as it stands the distance of the ribs for the back wall and ceiling has the center mounting bracket.
It's about 1/8" thick. In the photo, I elected to lay it on the floor and then install their Heat/Sound shield foam over to minimize drone. The stuff is heavy but I don't care.
The Foil-Mat makes a HUGE difference! Especially in the Doors, Roof, and Rear of Cab. Any place you can dampen resonance. I even dampened my Tray behind the seat and the Fuel Tank. Easy to install but you'll have the Tar Material under your nails for a week
did you put some inside the door? if you did was it on the exterior side, interior side, ???
Yes, both inner and outer. On my truck, it appeared the factory swabbed in something like Bondo inside the outer skin presumably to dampen the sheet metal. It chipped off with some elbow grease and a strong gasket removal putty knife. My advice is to lay a few layers of painters tape around the inside edges of the panel cavity, wear a long sleeve shirt, and gloves.
There should be plenty of room. I sprayed Lizard Skin sound and heat. Then I applied HushMat over top. Its kind of creepy quiet inside. without the motor running.
I posted this previously on a similar topic. The factory used undercoat inside the doors. I scraped it off too before putting the new butyl sound deadening in there.
Originally Posted by BTclassics
I'm in the process right now on my '54. After a ton of research on auto sound deadening, I learned that people use all sorts of things from spray-in liner to bubble wrap and everything in between! There is a lot of info out there on using asphalt-based roofing products (ex. Peel & Seal) from your local home improvement store. Some people will swear by it and others say it doesn't work well/ smell.
For the base layer I went with a foil-lined Butyl product that I got on Amazon (a lot cheaper than dynamat). I taped the seams with duct foil tape. Because funds are limited, I just used the jute carpet padding. On the rear cab wall and inside the doors, I added a layer of closed-cell foam. (Frost King duct insulation Bought at Home Depot/ Lowes.) Some people go a step further and add a layer of Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV). I won't bore you to death but different materials are used for different sound and heat purposes - dampening, deadening, blocking, absorbing, vibration, decoupling, etc. If you are interested, this was one of the better sites that explains some of the materials - https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products. Spray-On insulation like LizardSkin seem to be the highest rated (but most involved).
With all that, I won't know the effectiveness until I get to start and drive my truck again. I do know that when closing the doors, it sounds a lot more solid.
This guy is very inexpensive compared to some of the big names, is well rated, and ships via mail.......I was very happy with the quality, and haven't had any smell in the 100 plus degree weather yet.
"Tinny" sounds are the result of the metal ringing in response to an external vibration...much like a cymbal on a drum set. This ringing can be easily damped with adhesive backed butyl rubber products, ala Dynamat, etc. That said, these products are not "sound dampeners" as they will still allow sound energy to pass through them. Sounds from outside the cab require a different type of insulation to keep them from entering the cab. The best way to do this is to install a layer of closed cell foam and a layer of mass loaded vinyl. These products/techniques are used in high-end automobiles and theaters to keep high energy sound from passing through walls, etc. Headliners do not need such sound dampening (unless you live near an airport and have aircraft constantly flying overhead) but what is helpful is a layer of Dynamat followed by a layer of closed cell foam to dampen the reflected sounds from within the cab. Most folks do not have a good understanding of the physics of sound energy so the methods that they employ to treat unwanted noise in their trucks is not as efficient as it could be. Do a little homework, lots of info on the web, and find a solution that meets your needs and wallet.
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