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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 11:40 PM
  #1  
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Red face Electrical issue

Hello All,

I'm having some electrical issues. I drove my truck the other day 80 miles and back with no issues. Now it won't start and I don't know why. Brand new batteries. Only a few months old. The cables are loose and I can't get them any tighter (corroded), but hasn't really been an issue. Dash lights, and wait to start comes on, but no fuel pump clicking sounds and no turn over.

1989 F250 XLT Lariat,7.3L IDI, 107,000 miles, automatic, non turbo.



Thank you
Robert
 
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Old Jun 7, 2017 | 06:23 AM
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If it is still stock it has a mechanical pump. Th3 click8ng is GP relay. We really need more info.
Does it turn over? Is the whole truck dead?.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2017 | 11:28 AM
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What does the dash mount voltmeter read?
Is the gauge within the NORMAL when trying to crank ( but w/o cranking ) ? -->[ NORMAL ]
 
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Old Jun 7, 2017 | 12:47 PM
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Have you tried starting it in Neutral? Do you hear any click when you turn the key to START?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2017 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DieselFNG
The cables are loose and I can't get them any tighter (corroded), but hasn't really been an issue
Actually sounds to me like this is your real issue.

If the cables are corroded, the batteries won't charge right, and then the truck won't start.

Replace your cables.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2017 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by hturner12
If it is still stock it has a mechanical pump. Th3 click8ng is GP relay. We really need more info.
Does it turn over? Is the whole truck dead?.
No it doesn't turn over. No, it still displays lights on the dash, and the door light. But not enough to turn over.

Originally Posted by ctbiodzl
What does the dash mount voltmeter read?
Is the gauge within the NORMAL when trying to crank ( but w/o cranking ) ? -->[ NORMAL ]
The voltmeter reads nothing it doesn't move. It doesn't even move in to the red.

Thanks
--Robert
 
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Old Jun 8, 2017 | 04:43 PM
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YOu should see dash voltmeter reading in the Run position.
Have you checked fuses?
Or tried tried bridging the starter solenoid from the big post that goes to + BATT to the small post? This should turn the starter.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2017 | 05:20 PM
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Get a voltmeter, even a cheap harbor freight one would help. Check your battery voltage. Considering the dash one isn't working, either your batteries are dead, some wiring is crap, or fuse/fusible link broke. But we really can't help you anymore until you figure out if the batteries are charged, and replace the bad wiring you've already admitted is on the truck.

You may be able to get away with just replacing the terminals, but if they are corroded, chances are the cables are bad as well.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2017 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by madpogue
Have you tried starting it in Neutral? Do you hear any click when you turn the key to START?
Yes. No, Sounds of any kind.

Originally Posted by tecgod13
Actually sounds to me like this is your real issue.

If the cables are corroded, the batteries won't charge right, and then the truck won't start.

Replace your cables.
The cables being loose has never been an issue in the past.

Thanks
Robert
 
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Old Jun 8, 2017 | 05:56 PM
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With cables loose and corrodedo they can never get a full charge. Be prepared to buy 2 batteries and if you chose not to replace bad cables, you will be replac8ng batteries again real soon
 
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Old Jun 9, 2017 | 05:25 AM
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Thank you all.

--Robert
 
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Old Jun 11, 2017 | 05:45 PM
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So I jumped it yesterday and drove it 40 miles and when I shut it down and went to restart it, it wouldn't start again. I tried it in neutral it still wouldn't start. The dash lights and everything come on but not enough to turn it over. It took a second jump to start it.

Driving the voltmeter was in the green almost in the middle. Strangely had more power than normal. Purred like a loud diesel kitten.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2017 | 07:03 PM
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Have you used an actual voltmeter to check the charging voltage while the engine is running? Have you load tested the batteries, and/or charged them with a charger? Have you done anything about the loose cable connections?
 
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