Part Number?
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
Those bolts might work, but it wouldn't match the other pressed in studs.
I found this part number in a Ford "Standard Utility Parts" catalog that has a diagram that appears to match what I'm after:
350609-S8
It is a similar part number to the bolt, but I suspect this one will return press-in studs. Only problem is I don't know where to look as well as you all.
I found this part number in a Ford "Standard Utility Parts" catalog that has a diagram that appears to match what I'm after:
350609-S8
It is a similar part number to the bolt, but I suspect this one will return press-in studs. Only problem is I don't know where to look as well as you all.
64 and up B-F100/750,C500/600, P350/500 4 speed M/T.
64 and up P350/500 with 3 speed M/T.
Bolt (flange to coupling shaft flange yoke)
7/16" - 20 X 1 5/8" long not including the square head. The last 5/8" being the threads. So that would mean a full inch of shank.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
That is very close. When I measured the stud (somewhat awkwardly since it was still installed) the size was definitely 7/16"-20, but I measured the overall length (not including head) as 1 1/4".
Perhaps the extra 1/2' will be okay. Or I could trim it.
If I'm going to just go with a bolt, I might just look for a high grade generic fastener, rather than some obscure Ford part that is just a bolt.
Perhaps the extra 1/2' will be okay. Or I could trim it.
If I'm going to just go with a bolt, I might just look for a high grade generic fastener, rather than some obscure Ford part that is just a bolt.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
That is very close. When I measured the stud (somewhat awkwardly since it was still installed) the size was definitely 7/16"-20, but I measured the overall length (not including head) as 1 1/4".
Perhaps the extra 1/2' will be okay. Or I could trim it.
If I'm going to just go with a bolt, I might just look for a high grade generic fastener, rather than some obscure Ford part that is just a bolt.
Perhaps the extra 1/2' will be okay. Or I could trim it.
If I'm going to just go with a bolt, I might just look for a high grade generic fastener, rather than some obscure Ford part that is just a bolt.
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,350
Likes: 7
From: Garland, Tx
Sometimes they make me cry too as they make it seem easy.
A Poe Boy gotts Poe Ways, but to reiterate what Jeffaffa said, don't be Johnny Q. Public and "rigg" that stud, with all do respect.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,477
Likes: 7
From: NAMPA, ID.
On a side note, is there some trick to the numbering on the schematic I posted? It seems like the numbers on the diagram are fairly useless except as a descriptor for forum discussions. In other words, is there a way to use the schematic number to determine an actual part number?
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5th Wheeling
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
It's definitely a pressed in stud that I have now, but I don't see any reason why a bolt wouldn't work if i replaced all four.
I will look into ordering the 353515-S8 bolts and replace all of them so they match.
I will look into ordering the 353515-S8 bolts and replace all of them so they match.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
Remember having that correct diameter and length shank is important unless there is some other guide between the two flanges that mates them perfectly straight and even. If no other guide is there and going generic and no shank, I would replace two out of the four. Opposing corners to keep the driveline balanced there. 2 would have aligning shanks and 2 without. Example would be out of the 4 corners, I'd do left lower and right upper.
A clipped head? In the Standard Parts Book I found a rounded head stud with the head clipped. Part number 385553-S2. 1/2" x 13,Not counting the threads it's 1 1/4" long. 29/32" of threads. Klimesh Motor Sales shows as having 12 of them.
Klimesh Motor Sales
563-562-3241
I wish you would have posted pics of your bungled stud a long time ago.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
I will post pics when I get home from work today.
I believe the threads on the stud are beyond repair. Someone long ago put the wrong size nut on it and it vibrated all around for years, ruining the threads, especially in the area where they would need to grab the best. I'll post pics of that later too.
With regard to alignment, and the shanks on the studs, luckily there is an alignment guide at the center of the bolt on portion (it's a large precision circle that fits into a lip on the bolt-yoke), so I think alignment will not be an issue. That said, I think I will still take JAFAFFA's suggestion and replace only two of the studs with bolts on opposite corners.
I believe the threads on the stud are beyond repair. Someone long ago put the wrong size nut on it and it vibrated all around for years, ruining the threads, especially in the area where they would need to grab the best. I'll post pics of that later too.
With regard to alignment, and the shanks on the studs, luckily there is an alignment guide at the center of the bolt on portion (it's a large precision circle that fits into a lip on the bolt-yoke), so I think alignment will not be an issue. That said, I think I will still take JAFAFFA's suggestion and replace only two of the studs with bolts on opposite corners.
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