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I wish I had found my own thread before I spent $1K!
I took it to the dealer because it was a AAA shop and they guaranteed the fix...and while I knew it was a fuel delivery issue, I wasn't sure it was the fuel pump. I still have an open ticket there due to the guarantee. They said the relay was fine --which I'm sure it was...until it wasn't. The same poster that bypassed the relay also suggested a method for testing the relay --but you only have a second to catch the failure; otherwise, it looks normal.
No worries, I have access to All-Data so getting a schematic isn't an issue.
Easiest, VS every spare dollar I have right now is going to swap parts.... lol I'd hate to put money into something that is going to be useless in 6 months, like a CJB, when everything else works fine.
Although if all I have to do is take it apart and resolder all the connections... that's not a big deal either. I can handle that.
Great info though! I'll search the posts and see what I can dig up.
I think you going to need the CJB, regardless, when you do the swap.
I think you going to need the CJB, regardless, when you do the swap.
From what hambass and others have found the only failure in the CJB is the fuel pump relay... which I won't need after the swap, since the 12valve I'm using is going to have the mechanical fuel pump. I'm only shooting for 400-450hp, there isn't really a need for an Electric pump like a Fass or Air Dog. Maybe down the road if the mechanical pump fails... but even at that... I have a spare in my toolbox... lol And they only run about $140, which is a couple hundred cheaper than even JUST an electric pump.
And... like you... it's less electrical stuff to go wrong!
From what hambass and others have found the only failure in the CJB is the fuel pump relay... which I won't need after the swap, since the 12valve I'm using is going to have the mechanical fuel pump. I'm only shooting for 400-450hp, there isn't really a need for an Electric pump like a Fass or Air Dog. Maybe down the road if the mechanical pump fails... but even at that... I have a spare in my toolbox... lol And they only run about $140, which is a couple hundred cheaper than even JUST an electric pump.
And... like you... it's less electrical stuff to go wrong!
True, but I was going to stick a "booster" pump back by the tank. This way when I need to bleed the system after a filter change or need a backup to the mechanical fuel pump I will have it. Mine will be on a switch too.
Nothing huge, I'm going to reseal everything before it goes back in, as well as O-ring and stud it.
Swap parts... I need Mounts and the misc little stuff like hoses and the sensor bungs.
The only things in question will be an Electric fan controller and Tach set up... if something I'm working on doesn't work.
Basically I'm building and programming a unit that will look at Coolant temp, Ambient air temp/Intake air temp and be able to run the grid heaters just like factory. Since it's looking at coolant temp, I'm going to add AC function (on/off) so it can then kick on the electric fans to help keep the AC ice cold... and of course Fan function if the engine starts to run warm. Since I'm doing all that... I don't see why I can't use the factory Tach from the 12v and tell the unit to output a signal that is 58 pulses for every 1 or 2 pulses it sees (I haven't looked at my balancer to see which one it has)
As long as I can get everything to work right.. I may add in programming for the VGT turbo to close the vanes fully on a VERY cold start to help warm the engine.
And if that goes well enough... I have another idea that I'll start working on. It would be an all inclusive instrument cluster, boost, egt, GPS, all built into a completely digital touch screen cluster like a modern truck
Thanks! It's what has kept me sane during my time off work due to Shoulder Surgery. It's also the reason I haven't started the work on the swap.... lol