Newbie when it comes to automatic transmissions…

I bought an E4OD which had been drained and inspected prior to shipment. Since the TC has its own drainnplug does it need to be filled prior to installation, or does fluid just find its way in when tranny is filled?

 

The pump will fill it

 

Also, TC is pretty rusty (came from east coast) — is that okay? Surface rust.
Thinking maybe some brake cleaner?
Thx

 

You should pour a couple quarts into the converter before installing.
Surface rust on the outside isn't going to hurt anything.

 

There is no need to pour any fluid in the torque converter before installing it.

 

new (to me) tranny, new filter, DIY filter clip, new shift linkage (for sidewinder), new gasket, new rear shaft seal...

18 quarts of mercon V arrived last night via brown santa. will be a nice benchmark in my build to get the tranny installed this week and (fingers crossed) fire up the motor for the first time!

 

Ok you don't put a qt or 2 in you start the motor and the bushing/bearing in the converter runs dry till oil gets in there and then maybe the trany runs low and may not have anything to pump.
It's your trany do it your way.

I was taught to ALWAYS put a qt or 2 in the converter and never had any issues doing it this way.
And this goes for drag racing & off road racing autos.
Dave ----

 

At Ford when we build a couple million transmissions a year each torque converter is installed dry.

You won't have any issues putting a quart or two in the converter first. It just isn't necessary.

 

Thank you. Tranny finally installed… one step closer.

New issue: replaced shift linkage but now MLPS neutral line isn't quite aligned. Another thread suggests that is problematic. Not sure what to make of it since the linkage was machined and can only go on the one way.

Was wondering about wallowing mounting holes in MLPS to clock it a bit more to get it to line up. ??

 

Stick your two fingers in there and turn the center until the lines match.Chock the wheels and shift the trans to N and install the ranger sensor (formerly known as MLPS) with those two lines,in line.

 

Yep, but then the bolt holes don't quite line up... slightly rotated, so when you position sensor on bolt holes, the lines move apart again.

 

It sounds like the trans manual valve detent is not in neutral when you are installing the range sensor. Try removing the cable from the lever and make sure you can "feel" that it is in the neutral position when installing. You may need to readjust the cable.

 

finally fired up new motor (woohoo!)...

i've got 12 qts in tranny now and have had motor running a few times (only for a few minutes each time). all seemed fine, until i put it in gear for the first time to make sure i had rotation (this is new-to-me E4OD, though was checked out by shop prior to purchase)... spun just fine (no driveshaft installed), but getting steady leak now out of the rear seal (which i had replaced w/ new). not around the seal, but just dripping out of the tailshaft (up and over the rubber boot where driveshaft would insert).

i've still got 6 more quarts to add, but obviously don't want to do so just yet.

does the pump run when in park, or is it just that it hasn't had time to pump fluid to fill the TC since it has only been in gear about 45 seconds and so is leaking out the back? or do i have something else going on internally (sure hope not).

thanks for your help.

 

You at least have to have a drive shaft yoke in the tail for it not to leak. I would be surprised if it takes 18 qts. Start checking dip stick at 12 qts.

 

The pump works any time the engine is spinning. It doesn't matter if it is in park or any other gear.

Don't run it very much when it is that low on fluid, you could run the pump dry, which will destroy it.