electrical issues

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Jun 16, 2017 | 06:01 AM

#31

teamo

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Joined: Sep 2016

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From: MA

It might make sense that there was only one flasher. As you can see in the pictures of those spade connectors, they appear to be the factory type built into the wiring harness and not an aftermarket crimp type. Now the question is the serial number. Is that the truck serial number? Where is it located? Also this being a 50 year old truck it's also possible that someone changed out the wiring harness that they had scavenged from another truck, although it does look to be installed correctly like the factory did it. Also my fuse box is just hanging under there. I cannot find any holes where it mounts to on the firewall/kick panel.

Jun 16, 2017 | 12:02 PM

#32

JEFFFAFA

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Joined: Mar 2013

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From: Phoenix, Az.

Quote:

Originally Posted by teamo

Yes. The last 6 digits of the vehicle's serial number. On the latch side of the driver's door is the plate with the serial number. One word of caution though. Back in the day if the door was replaced by a used one a lot of times the Body Man would not swap out the warranty plates. So if you don't see any signs of that being a replacement door go by that serial number.
Fuse box not screwed to the firewall? That makes me nervous. Now I wonder if the PO (Previous Owner) didn't put a used harness out of ???? year truck in your truck. You see, a lot of owners hack the living crap out of the dash harness adding misc things. Clusters with gauges, radio, fog lamps, bypass this and that, etc. Your PO might have installed a different harness to get rid of a hacked one. See if you can find the engineering number tags (wrap around sticker) on the dash harness and the cluster harness. And you VIN.
Example of a dash harness engineering number would be C7TB14401DB. I gave you examples of the cluster eng number a couple posts ago.

Jun 16, 2017 | 04:22 PM

#33

teamo

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From: MA

I'll look for the numbers tomorrow when I get to work on the old bird. The cluster looks to be correct as seen in the pictures that you posted earlier. I found the original cluster in the storage compartment. A previous owner had installed a full gauge cluster but the wring won't work because it doesn't have the alternator shunt wiring. I went back to the original cluster with the warning lights. It would have been nice to have the alternator gauge and oil pressure gauge but that's not the end of the world. I just got my new tune up parts delivered a few minutes ago to the house so I am hopefully going to get things running smoothly
Thanks for the help I'll post back when I check things out some more.

Jun 22, 2017 | 07:53 PM

#34

teamo

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From: MA

I got the steering wheel off with my Harbor Freight wheel puller. It came off easily. The horn circuit is good, I grounded the wire to a ground and the horn works. I found two horn brush contacts with springs. One was on the wheel and one was underneath going to the horn wire terminal. The small soldered wire was missing from the brush that was underneath at the terminal so that may be the problem. I'm not sure that the back of the steering wheel is contacting the horn contact brush because there seems to be a pretty good sized gap. I have the wheel tightened down really good and the gap is still there. Also there is a steel collar that goes over the steering shaft that appears to be split? Not sure if it is split or if it is supposed to be like that so that it pulls tight when the wheel is installed.

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