Can anyone tell me why the windshield washer is not spraying any fluid on my 88 F250. Also, I'm looking to replace all the shocks in my
F250. Can anyone recommend what would be a good set of shocks to purchase along with instructions to install?

thanks for your time in advance.

 

Could be a lot of things wrong with the washer. Maybe Fuse, maybe bad wire or connector or a bad switch, but more likely just clogged jets or a broken hose.


Have a buddy turn on the washer while you are under the hood, try to do this with the engine off so you can hear better. Listen for the electric motor whine of the washer. If there is no whine, then the motor or wires or fuse or switch are bad. If you hear a whine, look for a bad hose or clogged jets.

Try to remove a hose near the jets and see if fluid squirts out when the washer is on. If the fluid comes out then it is a jet problem. You might be able to clean the jets with a needle. Also check the backside of the jets to see if there is a wad of gunk stuck in there. If no fluid comes out of the hose then it is a clogged or broken hose, usually easy to fix.

You can check the motor and wires and switch and fuse with a meter or simple visual checks in many cases.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

Great!

Thanks for the info. I did check the fuse and they all look ok. I'll have to check everything else when i get home.

Many thanks,


Jamie

 

I had a similar problem. The resevoir was full and no spray. I thought the pump was bad. I did not hear anything, no switching nothing. Out of frustration more than anything I pushed the wash button repeatedly. What do you know it started working. Works fine now. One difference I noticed, when I push the button I can hear a relay click over in what seems to be the passenger footwell. Best I can figure is that contacts were a little worn and my temper tantrum made the contacts work again. I did not push hard, just over and over and then it worked. Try that first.

regards,

Bryan

 

Thanks Bryan !

I'll give that a shot and keep pressing the button.

Jamie

 

 

Most likely it is the electric washer motor; they tend to corrode and rust.
Just go down to AutoZone or any parts store and buy a replacement, they’re only about $13 bucks.
Also stick some dielectric grease in the electronic connector to keep it from corroding.
Do you know where the motor is located, and how to take it out?
I had problems with mine. It stopped working for a while, then it came back to life, than stopped again, and it never worked again after that, so I bought the replacement. Save yourself the hassle and go get one

While you’re at AutoZone, or wherever, pick up some shocks. Get a shock that has VST
(Valve Sensing Technology) this is awesome for any kind of road surface.
The prices are not to bad about $20 buck a shock.
I got the Gabriel gas Ryder VST from AutoZone for around that price.
I don’t think they had instructions with them, but shocks are fairly easy to replace.
Do you want to me to explain how to remove and install them?

 

The electrical connection on those washer motor pumps are notoriously poor . More than likely thats why it is working intermittantly .

 

Well maybe this is obviouse, but before you go buy anything make sure you have power at the motor when the button is pushed, and make sure you have a good ground. It could be a relay not sending the power or the switch itself, so do your self a favor and check the voltage first.

 

Thanks to all who responded!

Yes, I'll have to take a trip to autozone and pickup the shocks. Can you tell me how to install the shocks?

Many thanks,

Jamie

 

I am having a similar problem with my wipers but it seems to be in the control stick not the pump. I too hear the relay clicking and some times the wipers don't work on itermittent.I tried spraying contact cleaner into the switch head and rotating it back anfd forth while doing so. This helped for almost a year but it is time to do it again. I wish could take it apart to clean it properly. I think a new one would be pricey aand a used one may have the same problems.

 

I was just going to mention the Gabriel VST shocks. They are excellent for any road condition and rather inexpensive, at most $25 each. People claim expensive shocks like Rancho 9000's or KYB are great, but the honest truth is that with a heavy duty truck you're never going to get a car-like ride, and no matter how much you pay for the shocks, you're still gonna get that bit of bounciness to the truck as you would with any HD. To replace shocks is a real simple task but it can be made more difficult by frozen bolts. First, turn your wheel for access. You don't need to remove it on 250/350's. Now take off the top nut of the shock, the one that is verticle. It is the only bolt there, you can't miss it. You will probably need to hold the bolt with a set of vise grips, or the shock is going to turn when you try to remove the bolt. Once this is off, you got your next and last bolt. It is the only one on the bottom, going horizontally. It may be frozen so you may need to squirt alot of liquid wrench in there, you may even need to take a torch to it to heat it up. Don't torch it with all the liquid wrench dripping off it though!! I had to use a sawzall on mine to hack the bolt off it was so bad. Installation is the reverse. When you buy the shocks they will have a piece of metal wire holding them compressed. Leav ethis on till you have your bolts in. It's easiest to do the top one first. Tighten them fairly well, not quite gorilla strength tight, but good and snug. After driving for a while (couple days or so) go back and check the bolts to make sure they are still tight, as you would with header bolts. Vibration can cause them to back out some, so don't be suprised if they are a tad loose. The rear shocks ar ejust as easy, but both thop and bottom bolt are horizontal, not vertical. You will need to get under the truck for these ones. Hope that helps.

Ryan

 

Ryan,

Thanks for the help. Got a set of Gabrial VST's. All were installed as planned. Thanks for your valued help.

Jamie