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just like brandon said above, it will leak out of the nut. Hard to tell wether its 5 or 6 on the diagram but the one that is a hard 90 out of the side of the pump, then goes down and around the bottom of cac pipe. The cac pipe basically rubs right against the 90 degree fitting. I was trying to do some preventive maintenance earlier this week and put some wire loom around the 2 hoses that rub the shock tower, and low and behold that fitting blew out about 2 hours later while towing 10,000 lbs. No brakes and no power steering hauling 10,000 lbs, talk about puckered up! This should definitely be on the failure prevention thread. Could be life threatening if you dont change these lines out
Based on your description and what Paul said above I believe I have the hose that is known to fail. Good to hear, thanks fellas.
I hear you about the pucker factor. I had it bad enough when the steering gear exploded and the fluid evacuated in less than 1 second. I was just backing my truck up to a campground site and thought my truck might roll into the lake. As I was turning the wheel and could hear the gears grinding and also hear the fluid falling to the ground I yelled for my wife to grab a chock. After she chocked the truck, I turned it off and looked for the carnage. I was grateful it did not fail 30 minutes later with 12K lbs in tow, like you had happen.
mine failed tonight. unfortunately i need one by tomorrow as im leaving for a trip in 2 days. have the ones from the dealer resolved the issue? the fitting.
mine failed tonight. unfortunately i need one by tomorrow as im leaving for a trip in 2 days. have the ones from the dealer resolved the issue? the fitting.
I am guessing the nut came off the tube or it is leaking at the nut. If so the OEM ones are still produced with the same design. Any nut that has the internal snap ring is more likely to fail than a crimped on nut.
Originally Posted by Sous
Yes, the ones from the dealer should resolve the issue
It will resolve the leak. Sous if what you installed is different than you removed I would love to see it. Really would like to see companies get away from this design. Instead everyone else seems to be copying Ford.
Some aftermarket hoses are the same design as OEM with the snap ring while others are crimped on. The only reason for the snap ring nut is so you can the install the nut first then snap the tube into the nut. if you can install the nut with a wrench rather then a socket the crimped ones are usually better.
I am guessing the nut came off the tube or it is leaking at the nut. If so the OEM ones are still produced with the same design. Any nut that has the internal snap ring is more likely to fail than a crimped on nut.
It will resolve the leak. Sous if what you installed is different than you removed I would love to see it. Really would like to see companies get away from this design. Instead everyone else seems to be copying Ford.
Some aftermarket hoses are the same design as OEM with the snap ring while others are crimped on. The only reason for the snap ring nut is so you can the install the nut first then snap the tube into the nut. if you can install the nut with a wrench rather then a socket the crimped ones are usually better.
I was under the impression that the high pressure power steering hose that tends to fail was re-designed or updated to stop it from failing. Perhaps I was wrong and all I will be doing is replacing the hose that tends to fail that has been there for 240K miles with an identical hose that will last another 200K miles.
I bought the OEM (part number 1C3Z3A717AA) hose from RiffRaff after providing the trucks VIN to him. He said there were some slight differences in the hose based on the VIN.
I thought the PS high pressure hose took a similar path as the HPOP hoses that were re-designed and are now much better for longer use.
Maybe I was wrong?
Either way, the new hose (re-designed or not) should last longer than the current 240K mile hose that is on there now.
well i'm going to get the new one from the stealership this morning. ill get a pic of the fitting. if its the same design it'll get me going for my trip, and ill take the old one and get a custom hose make that wont fail as quick. my truck has 130k. 25k on the new motor.
I have the original return hoses on my truck. The pressure hoses are the only two I've replaced. Like spongecop I zip-tied heater hose around the pressure line that rubs the shock tower. I've never gone in through the fender liner to do the lines (I hate removing/installing that thing) and have always gone through the top like IDI-Charlie. A little more interference work but better view and working room IMO.
That is the kicker. I am willing to bet the failure was at a fitting you removed and reinstalled during the swap. My truck made it 10 feet after the engine swap. tubing spit out of the fitting. The snap ring and nut deform internally over time as it will swivel a little and vibrations etc. not a big deal usually until you unthread the nut from the mating part and put it back together.
The purpose of this design is assembly line efficiency. the nut is already in the pump and the person installing the hoses just pushed the tube into the nut.
I seem to spring a leak every couple of years. As much as I tout OEM as the next guy for our trucks I got tired of spending $200 for OEM pressure lines and just go with Gates from Rock Auto for about $40 (for both).
Brandon, is the crimp on nut the one being sold as OEM today or is that a custom hose made somewhere local to you?
I guess I will have to see which end the hose I bought has when I get home tonight.
It appears I may be replacing a faulty part with a faulty part which seems just silly in my opinion. If this is such a "must do before the oh S$*t moment", why is this information just now coming out? Maybe I missed it, although I looked pretty good when selecting the right source for the hose.
Brandon, is the crimp on nut the one being sold as OEM today or is that a custom hose made somewhere local to you?
I guess I will have to see which end the hose I bought has when I get home tonight.
It appears I may be replacing a faulty part with a faulty part which seems just silly in my opinion. If this is such a "must do before the oh S$*t moment", why is this information just now coming out? Maybe I missed it, although I looked pretty good when selecting the right source for the hose.
Unless something has changed very recently (and i would love to see) the Ford OEM ones will continue to have the snap ring design as it is the same as they installed on the line.
Trying to think how to word this correctly.
The crimped ones will be aftermarket at the parts stores and or rock auto. acdelco gates duralast edelman..... all pretty good. Brand does not really matter as long as it does not say made in China on the hose.
Some aftermarket ones will have the snap ring design and the nut will usually not be assembled on the hose. when you install it you put the nut in first then snap the hose into the nut. This is not applicable to our trucks. This is in places you cannot or it is very difficult to install with the nut on the tube.
Any company that you can find making these that has been around for years and you have heard of is a pretty safe bet. A newer overseas supplier not so much. so you may want to stick with the second cheapest on up......
the new one i got today from ford is the snap ring one. same design. upon removal i noticed that the IC piping was just touching the line. may have been tapping it with engine movement. ive now solved that issue.
FYI Sous the little plastic washer is a little ***** to get on. I've done these hoses on 3 different trucks now. I suggest getting a couple of come in handy spare washers from Ford - they're about $3 ish i think. best bet is to put the plastic washer in boiling water from a kettle - not a pan boiling. This will make it swell a bit and a little easier to get on. They are very easy to nick so go slowly. Sometimes they slide over really easy once hot other times you move them down one thread at a time with your thumb nail. I always seem to nick the first one on an install being impatient.
i've done it with pump in place and with pump out for R&R and its easier with the pump out.
Just went to the garage and I have the "snap in" nut type. Also, the plastic washers are on the fitting already, as they are in the pictures above posted by Brandon.
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