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Mid-engine, Twin Turbo, '51 F1 Build Thread, pic heavy

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  #31  
Old 06-04-2017, 10:08 PM
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Today I made a template for a place to mount the adjustable control arms that will replace the steering rack. I hope it is enough to keep the rear wheels straight. But it's the same as what they use on the DF Goblins below.
It looks like they just replaced the steering rack with adjustable control arms, so I'll start with that.




 
  #32  
Old 06-04-2017, 11:23 PM
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Vette rear diffs use a center pivot and tie rods , it may be something to look into may save a bunch of time .
 
  #33  
Old 06-06-2017, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by EBEAR
Vette rear diffs use a center pivot and tie rods , it may be something to look into may save a bunch of time .
That helped a lot, thanks, it saved me from using some arms that only had a ball joint and no pivot on the inside-end. I think the corvette single point is too short. For the same price I went with the 3000GT custom adjustable control arms. They look like they will be perfect and I had to make a mounting plate anyway so I think it is the best option.
 
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Old 06-06-2017, 09:56 PM
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I got the mounting plate done for the adjustable control arms to mount to. It's going to be a couple days before they arrive so maybe I'll start working on cab a little. I want to say it has a botched chop of the roof that needs attention.
I still need to trim off the left side, waiting until I get the control arms so I can center them evenly.
 
  #35  
Old 06-10-2017, 04:00 PM
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I went with some 3000GT rear control arms made for lowering cars. I had to hone out the tie rod ends holes a little. They are going to work out pretty well. The mounting bolts for the plate I made are off center, that's why it looks like the control arms are off center.


 
  #36  
Old 06-12-2017, 08:26 PM
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I got it back on the ground and roughly mated together. It's going to be tricky to get this thing lined up and straight. Now it's time to do a lot of research for the best way to do it.

Here's the plan:

Get everything roughly square and level/ centered.

Make slotted brackets to allow for adjustment later.

Install engine and tranny to load the suspension.

Make more precise measurements and bolt down the brackets.

Get it aligned.

Secure it all together as necessary.

Get it aligned again.

I'll use this as a guide. There's a lot I can't do because of the nature of the car.

Rear Alignment - Measurement - Tech, Guide, How-To - Circle Track - Hot Rod Network
 
  #37  
Old 06-25-2017, 08:09 PM
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I found that the clearance between the top of the struts and the inside of the rear fenders was very close. I will need to test fit the bed before building the brackets/ braces to mate the car to the truck.

I got the metal bed cover and old boards out today. It was held in by 40+ tack welds and rivets. It came out in pretty good shape.

Next, I'll measure and cut the bed inside of the fenders so I can slip it over the car section.


 
  #38  
Old 06-30-2017, 07:55 PM
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It's back to the drawing board. I've decided that the car frame is causing too many problems. It limits me to a huge 4" wheel gap in the back, while the front is adjustable. I'm also limited to 275/40 tires which will not be enough for the power level.

I'm just going to build a frame out of of 4x4" steel and get some adjustable coil overs. I'm getting started this weekend on it. I will still use the 3000GT subframe and it will be mid-engine-twin turbo!
 
  #39  
Old 09-19-2017, 12:54 PM
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I wonder if this became too much ? It was very ambitious but quite interesting .
 
  #40  
Old 09-19-2017, 01:14 PM
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I had to take a break to reroof, reside, and paint my house while it was sunny. Had to prep my rental to sell that too. I found a good welder to do the frame after I tack it up for him. I'm going to hit it hard in about a month when things settle down. Playing rugby didnt help either...I'm super motivated and it's going to to get drivable by next summer. Body work will get done the year after that. Got to make small goals lol.
 
  #41  
Old 09-19-2017, 01:14 PM
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I hope it all works out, should be interesting if you can pull off the integration of the parts. I agree on building a new subframe, sometimes it is more work trying to make something fit rather than start from scratch.
 
  #42  
Old 09-19-2017, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by drptop70ss
I hope it all works out, should be interesting if you can pull off the integration of the parts. I agree on building a new subframe, sometimes it is more work trying to make something fit rather than start from scratch.
I hear ya. I had it all fit up and ready, the bed would fit over it and look like a stock truck. I have to build a simple box subframe with some attachment points to take the place of the cars subframe. Otherwise the back of the truck will be way higher and I'm limited to 9" tires because I'm up against the fenders and 300GT struts. I wish I would have started from scratch. Oh well, not too much effort was wasted. I cut a car in half and cut two holes for the truck frame to slide in. Not too bad.
 
  #43  
Old 09-19-2017, 06:57 PM
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Glad to see yur still going we all have distractions , just thought it was a cool project and sometimes a bump gets a little reaction .
 
  #44  
Old 09-29-2017, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by EBEAR
Glad to see yur still going we all have distractions , just thought it was a cool project and sometimes a bump gets a little reaction .
Well your tactic worked, it's all I can think about now, haha. Thanks!
 
  #45  
Old 04-13-2018, 05:32 PM
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Back in action!



It's been forever, had to get my house remodeled and appraised and fix my Jeep up to explore my new chunk of land...

I bought the metal I need for my truck frame to car sub-frame mounting yesterday.

Now I am ready to get it on jack stands and map it all out on the ground with tape so I can weld it up straight.
 


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