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Have 1988 F-150 . Two wheel drive four speed stick, 300 straight six. (with 1970 carb and manifolds) . I had a water pump go out about a year ago and put a new thermostat in when i replaced the water pump. . So what is wrong with it? why has it been running hot for so long I don't want to use any of these "stop gap" solutions to keep her cool. What else may be wrong? I'm running out of ideas, heater still doesn't work and still runs hot...
Did the overheating begin after replacing the water pump? The 1988 set-up was F.I. and at some point after 1986, went from v-belt to serpentine belt drive. On some vehicles, the water pump is driven in the opposite direction when driven by the serpentine belt. Is it possible the wrong pump was installed?
I tried flushing radiatorout when i changed waterpump. with drain open and garden hose in the filler port, the water would come back up out of the filer port faster thenit drained. I coud probably pee faster then it was draining. How could i dentify which water pump i have?
Did the overheating begin after replacing the water pump? The 1988 set-up was F.I. and at some point after 1986, went from v-belt to serpentine belt drive. On some vehicles, the water pump is driven in the opposite direction when driven by the serpentine belt. Is it possible the wrong pump was installed?
That might be it. i have a 1970 engine. with serpintine belt. and i put an 88 water pump in. idk how to post pictures.
That might be it. i have a 1970 engine. with serpintine belt. and i put an 88 water pump in. idk how to post pictures.
The last water pump I installed had straight blades on the impeller, not curved to match the direction of rotation as I was expecting.
It would seem they are trying for a "one type fits all" water pump.
Jim
I don't know if you have the right size radiator, but a old time radiator guy showed me how to check to see if it's partially plugged up(usually with lime deposits from the water).
Drain the radiator and take the lower radiator hose off the radiator. Get a garden hose with a sprayer, and use one hand with the sprayer to fill the radiator with water while the palm of your other hand is over the lower radiator outlet plugging it up. It would be easier with two people to do this.
Once the radiator is full to the top, quickly take your palm off the lower outlet. The water should come out full flow the full capacity of the lower outlet. If it's less than full and struggling to come out(gulping and gurgling) then your radiator is partially clogged up.
Originally Posted by Bearded Rabbit
I tried flushing radiator out when i changed water pump. with drain open and garden hose in the filler port, the water would come back up out of the filer port faster then it drained. I could probably pee faster then it was draining.
Well, I'd say you've found one major problem. Is it the only problem? Can't say for sure, but at the very least, your radiator is almost completely plugged, based on the test given above.
If your water pump pulley has grooves in it and runs on the grooved side of the belt, it still turns the same way the old v-belt waterpumps turned.
If your waterpump pulley is smooth and it runs on the backside or smooth part of the serpentine belt, then it does turn backwards.
What pump do you order when replacing it? I would be surprised if the 70 pump would fit and the pulleys would line up. But maybe it will. Ford liked to change things through the years, things you would not expect. The fan would turn backwards also and push the air forward if you had a backwards setup with the older type fan.
But is the fan type (it's blade angle), correct for the direction it now spins in?
As Franklin2 said..........an early fan mounted onto your later, reverse-rotation set-up, will push air (instead of pulling) through the radiator. Although wrong, this will cool the engine somewhat while stationary or at slow road speeds.
But at higher road & engine speeds, an incorrect fan will be preventing airflow......it will try to push air forwards; while the truck's forward direction is trying to bring the air backwards through the radiator.
The fan should have a blade angle that pulls air backwards through the radiator, as it turns.
Many fan clutches are also directional, & have to be a match to the pump & fan.
The fan should have a blade angle that pulls air backwards through the radiator, as it turns.
Many fan clutches are also directional, & have to be a match to the pump & fan.
Great advice. With the engine idling, holding a sheet of paper in front of the radiator is an easy way to confirm correct airflow.
With the clutch, if the coolant is running hot, you should hear the fan drive engage. On my truck, when the clutch kicks in, it sounds like a hovercraft under the hood. It's very distinctive and hard to miss.
You're getting lots of great suggestions, but it sounds like it's time to start trying some concrete steps.
1) Have you confirmed the coolant is actually getting too hot? Do you have an overheat problem or an indication problem?
2) Sounds like you've already confirmed the radiator is nearly plugged. I'd either get a new one coming, or take this one to a shop to see if it can be cleaned.
3) Definitely check the water pump rotation and airflow direction.
The waterpumps from before and after 86 both spin clockwise and are not interchangable the fan and heater line hookups are different. I have returned the pre 86 water pump. I now have a 180 degree thermostat instead of the standard 195 degree. also got a flush kit. Think changing heater core nocked something loose. coolant looks like mud nw, maybe radiator is plugged up somewhere, came out of drain valve pretty slow compared to first time I drained it. will keep u updated
My radiator drain valve never worked well at all.
If you have a big tractor funnel try taking off the lower radiator hose and dumping a 5 gallon bucket into the radiator.
It should pour right through.
Given that you have 'mud' and now have a flush tee in the heater hose.....
I'd do what I have to to flush everything out of that block.
What type of flush kit did you get 1 part or 2 part?
Or is it the hose thing you add to the heater hose?
After it is flushed out and has clean water and before you refill with 50/50 check to see what the temp is in different areas on the face of the radiator.
Should get cooler as you go from top to bottom but should be same temp across left to right.
FYI I have had pretty new radiators not flow like new ones should and the only way it was found was to take it to a radiator shop to have flow tested.
looking in the cap all looked good, like new.
Dave ----
The waterpumps from before and after 86 both spin clockwise
Regardless of rotation, are your fan blades pulling air backwards through the radiator, or pushing it forward? They must pull backwards.
Looking at the Rockauto site, 86 was the last year for v-belts & standard fan rotation (clockwise viewed from the front), on the 300 engine......87 & later show as being serpentine belt, & reverse rotation.