Zf5 transmission problems
#1
Zf5 transmission problems
how's it going guys I have a 89 7.3idi f250 with a zf5 transmission it's been working fine until today it's really hard to put into first gear and I have to slam it in to second gear but 3rd 4th and 5th or easy to go into why is that any help please do I need to add atf fluid or something
#4
I have to push the clutch all the way to the floor to get it into 1st but sometimes I have to still shove it in like the clutch is not disengageing
#6
x3 on it being a clutch issue.
Check the fluid in the master cylinder. Might have to try bleeding it. Also see if the slave cylinder is leaking. That could but a sudden onset issue like you might be describing.
Check to see if the firewall is flexing when you push on the clutch pedal. It is a very common problem for these trucks, basically the firewall cracks and flexes so the master cylinder moves instead of the pushrod.
The other gears are easier because the synchros are assisting the shift, but if you can't get into first or reverse, but others are better, its generally because the clutch isn't fully disengaging.
Check the fluid in the master cylinder. Might have to try bleeding it. Also see if the slave cylinder is leaking. That could but a sudden onset issue like you might be describing.
Check to see if the firewall is flexing when you push on the clutch pedal. It is a very common problem for these trucks, basically the firewall cracks and flexes so the master cylinder moves instead of the pushrod.
The other gears are easier because the synchros are assisting the shift, but if you can't get into first or reverse, but others are better, its generally because the clutch isn't fully disengaging.
#7
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#8
#9
So I'm in my truck right now and notice I have a lot of play with the clutch at least 2 and a half inches before I have to start pushing and that's right after I started it but after I let it sit to warm up I have about an inch of play still really hard to get into first
#11
#12
Yup; chances are that you have/will have a problem in short order.
Normally, you don't 'lose' any brake fluid from the system - it'll last for years without a fill.
When you *do* need to add some, it's typically indicative of a problem. Fortunately, a replacement slave cylinder is only $30, and a master cylinder is similar. And they come with the O-ring seals for the end of the hose.
The hose is more expensive, but even so, not ridiculous(Recently bought one for a guy at CarQuest, was $86. Probably can be found much cheaper online)
Normally, you don't 'lose' any brake fluid from the system - it'll last for years without a fill.
When you *do* need to add some, it's typically indicative of a problem. Fortunately, a replacement slave cylinder is only $30, and a master cylinder is similar. And they come with the O-ring seals for the end of the hose.
The hose is more expensive, but even so, not ridiculous(Recently bought one for a guy at CarQuest, was $86. Probably can be found much cheaper online)
#13
Best bet, if they make one for your generation of truck, is a complete master-line-slave pre-built pre-bled system. Goes in waaay faster, and NO bleeding. Shoot, I even found a way to adapt such a setup for an OBS to my '85; the fabbing was some work, but a lot less frustrating work than futzing with the filling and bleeding, and no exposure to toxic fluid.
#14
Best bet, if they make one for your generation of truck, is a complete master-line-slave pre-built pre-bled system. Goes in waaay faster, and NO bleeding. Shoot, I even found a way to adapt such a setup for an OBS to my '85; the fabbing was some work, but a lot less frustrating work than futzing with the filling and bleeding, and no exposure to toxic fluid.
For my 88, they wanted $200 for the kit. I decided not to, because $$$.
I've replaced slave cylinders on three trucks so far; the hardest part is getting the slave cylinder 'pin' into place to actuate the throwout fork.
Bleeding? Not really a problem. Everyone says it is, but I've done it /with no help/ three times so far.
I've also never pre-filled the slave cylinder with fluid, one of those "have to do this" things.
The trick is to make sure the MC is full of fluid, put an allen wrench on the bleeder screw.
Open the bleeder, push the pedal to the floor.
Close the bleeder, pull the pedal up.
About 5 minutes of doing this(maby 20x) and you're most of the way done.
Once you start seeing fluid coming out with little air, pump the pedal a few times, then just crack the bleeder a little, letting the air come out. Close it and do this a couple of times, until you don't get air bubbles coming out.
Note: at this point, you won't have /any/ feeling in the pedal. It's 'dead', will go to the floor by hand.
Then, just pump the pedal to get your 'pedal' back. Pump it by holding down for a second, pull it up for a second, repeat. Once you start getting some 'pedal' back, just pump it a bunch with your foot.
Maby 5 minutes of this and you are done.
Sure, it's a /bit/ of a pain... But it's a good skill to know, and it's a lot cheaper to spend $30 on a slave than $200 on the entire unit...
#15