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Ok, front left wheel bearing going. Going to replace both sides. I have the early 99 mule. I have read, and am wanting confirmation that the following is correct. I can use the 99.5 hub assemblies as long as I switch to the 99.5 rotors as well? They are significantly cheaper than the early 99 hubs.
Nope, you got it. Wheel bearing assemblies and rotors are all that is required.
FYI the assemblies with the ABS sensor is cheaper than the ones without it. You can just tuck the wire out of the way if your truck don't have ABS.
When i I did mine I just plugged them into the connector on the back side of the wheel well, it had all the clips on the hydraulic break hose to hold the sensor wire and made a neat installation.
Don't wait too long to do it. I almost had major tragedy a year ago. Pulled off freeway to use the facilities at AMPM. Got back in truck. Got back on frwy, ABS light comes on and steering a little funny. Pulled over, ckd out front end. Driver tire slightly tilted. Go in, pulled forward, then back then forward and front driver tire locked up.
God sent that I had to pee. 70 on frwy and front tire go bye bye, NO BUENO!!
I agree about the importance of not driving that truck until it is repaired. My brother in law wrecked a truck when a front bearing froze up and put him in the ditch at 60 mph.
Kinda on the fence on this one. Been a while on my e99, but I remember the offset thickness was 3mm different and I thought for sure I had to use loaded calipers otherwise the brakes would drag due to flange thickness.
Could be wrong, but lately my luck is heading that way. Just a thought.
Kinda on the fence on this one. Been a while on my e99, but I remember the offset thickness was 3mm different and I thought for sure I had to use loaded calipers otherwise the brakes would drag due to flange thickness.
Could be wrong, but lately my luck is heading that way. Just a thought.
Denny
Denny, it has been a while for me also but when I did mine about 5 years ago I am certain that I did not replace the calipers and they did not drag. Maybe the reason you must do both at once is because each part's 3mm difference offsets the other. I did some research before I made the swap and the biggest reason for me was because it was the most cost effective way to replace the wheel bearing assemblies. If I would have had to replace the calipers then the cost would have been much more. I wish I could find the thread with the wright-up but it would have been from years ago.
Well that was a PITA!!!!
I think these were the original brakes too. LOTS of rust inside. Had to wire wheel inside the knuckle there was so much. New brakes stop like a champ!
On a side note. The road noise from what I thought was the tires is gone.
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