1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Part name or schematic for electrical under dash

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  #16  
Old 05-23-2017, 05:53 PM
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Super Duty (new body style). That screw looks like it came off the steering column.

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  #17  
Old 05-23-2017, 06:27 PM
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Thanks mine is a heavy duty
 
  #18  
Old 05-23-2017, 07:28 PM
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What was the original problem that made you call them to come and look at your truck?

The radio doesn't have anything to keep it from working except the fuse or a broken wire. It doesn't go through the PCM to work.

I do know that the 97-03 F150 trucks have the fuse box mounted on the firewall and it can get damaged by a leaking windshield. Also the Expeditions from that generation.

The fuse box on your truck is not near the firewall.

Kevin
 
  #19  
Old 05-23-2017, 10:02 PM
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Kevin,
I have a 1997 Ford F250 HD XLT 7.3 Turbo Diesel. In the spring of 2014, I had asked my ex to help our son put the new batteries in the truck. I wasn't going to go through the ex's tools to install them myself. Anyway, son had his hooked up correctly, Ex did not look at the idiot markings on the battery he had and then told our son his was hooked up wrong, it wasn't but he switched it. Bot batteries were hooked up backwards, he smoked my alternator, the aftermarket radio has not worked since and 2 weeks after the batteries were installed wrong my truck started to have a transmission shifting problem.
It would shift hard, it would sound like it down shifted and the engine would rev up and the tow haul light would flash, then eventually the emergency brake light came on and another light.
I took it to two mechanics and they could not figure it out, both told me they couldn't get codes and had to drive it till it did it again.
I then called a actual transmission shop, explained the battery backwards issue and he turned it over to his mechanic that new electrical systems. He was able to find the following codes.
PO500 Speed sensor
PO344 Cam Sensor
PO603 communication malfunction KAM
They replaced the parts and reset the computer, it worked last year until October and it did the drop a gear engine rev thing and the tow haul light flashed.
Then it came out of it and sat over winter, I fired it up this spring drove it a couple of times and no problem.
Then one weekend I drove it both days and the second day it started shifting down and engine rev again. I took it to the local mechanic shop and told them to get out the big code machine they pulled an old code they said, they claimed everything on the rear is good and that it now points towards the speed cluster. They said they could pull my cluster out send it out to be fixed and reinstall for 600 dollars. I did get one from Jarrett but have not had time to get it into the shop.
Then I mentioned this whole thing to my friend who then said he knew it was probably the part under the dash that usually goes out from the windshield leaking, he checked it out said it was swollen and the rear was blown out which to me made sense because of the batteries hooked up wrong. Yes my windshield has leaked for several years, I have sealed it before but need to do it again.
He took down the last 5 digits of my vin A/ as well and was ordering the part and I paid for it, that now I do not have either my money, the part and he is not returning calls or texts to set up a time to put the part in, he was to do it last Monday and called later afternoon and changed it to Thursday but he never came or called or texted. So I came on here looking for possible answers. So there is the entire 3 years of trying to get my truck to run as I need it to pull a small horse trailer to competitions.
 
  #20  
Old 05-23-2017, 10:31 PM
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You can R&R both the PCM and the cluster yourself. Simple hand tools. There are probably stickies or just regular threads somewhere here on FTE for both jobs. If not, folks here can walk you through it.
 
  #21  
Old 05-24-2017, 01:44 PM
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Should I start with the speed cluster since that was what the local shop said the code computer pointed to? Then if the problem continues change out the PCM?
Thanks for the recommendations.
 
  #22  
Old 05-24-2017, 02:47 PM
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WOW, I've been following this and seems like you have some issues. If you could post your town and state some member close by might be available to take a look and give some help (eyes on). A few comments below ...

Originally Posted by whisper237
Kevin,
I have a 1997 Ford F250 HD XLT 7.3 Turbo Diesel. In the spring of 2014, I had asked my ex to help our son put the new batteries in the truck. I wasn't going to go through the ex's tools to install them myself. Anyway, son had his hooked up correctly, Ex did not look at the idiot markings on the battery he had and then told our son his was hooked up wrong, it wasn't but he switched it. Bot batteries were hooked up backwards, he smoked my alternator, the aftermarket radio has not worked since and 2 weeks after the batteries were installed wrong my truck started to have a transmission shifting problem.
It would shift hard, it would sound like it down shifted and the engine would rev up and the tow haul light (is that the light on shifter handle?) would flash, then eventually the emergency brake light came on and another light (the check engine light?).
I took it to two mechanics and they could not figure it out, both told me they couldn't get codes and had to drive it till it did it again.
I then called a actual transmission shop, explained the battery backwards issue and he turned it over to his mechanic that new electrical systems. He was able to find the following codes.
PO500 Speed sensor
PO344 Cam Sensor
PO603 communication malfunction KAM (normal if batteries disconnected)
They replaced the parts and reset the computer (what parts?), it worked last year until October and it did the drop a gear engine rev thing and the tow haul light flashed.
Then it came out of it and sat over winter, I fired it up this spring drove it a couple of times and no problem.
Then one weekend I drove it both days and the second day it started shifting down and engine rev again. I took it to the local mechanic shop and told them to get out the big code machine they pulled an old code (always get the code please, you're the customer) they said, they claimed everything on the rear is good and that it now points towards the speed cluster. They said they could pull my cluster out send it out to be fixed and reinstall for 600 dollars. I did get one from Jarrett but have not had time to get it into the shop.
Then I mentioned this whole thing to my friend who then said he knew it was probably the part under the dash that usually goes out from the windshield leaking, he checked it out said it was swollen and the rear was blown out which to me made sense because of the batteries hooked up wrong. (Is he still your friend?) Yes my windshield has leaked for several years, I have sealed it before but need to do it again.
He took down the last 5 digits of my vin A/ as well and was ordering the part and I paid for it, that now I do not have either my money, the part and he is not returning calls or texts to set up a time to put the part in, he was to do it last Monday and called later afternoon and changed it to Thursday but he never came or called or texted. So I came on here looking for possible answers. So there is the entire 3 years of trying to get my truck to run as I need it to pull a small horse trailer to competitions.
Originally Posted by whisper237
Should I start with the speed cluster since that was what the local shop said the code computer pointed to? Then if the problem continues change out the PCM?
Thanks for the recommendations.
Question, does the truck still start? If so I doubt the actual PCM is damaged as it is protected via a diode for reversing the batteries. With the information provided it is possible the transmissions shifting issues are either the speed cluster being damaged, but I don't think it's visible looking under the dash.
 
  #23  
Old 05-24-2017, 03:07 PM
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I was thinking that if you are still getting a P0500 code then the truck is having a problem with communication to the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) which is in the rear end.

You need to see if the wires to it are broken and you need to put an OHM meter on the connector to the sensor at the rear end to see if it is functioning. If the VSS has a wire broken or the sensor is bad then it will cause shifting problems and it will cause the speedometer to jump around while you are driving. It can also cause the OD light to flash on the shifter.

I suggest you solve that issue first, then move on to the next one. It could be the instrument cluster, but start with the cheaper items first.

Kevin
 
  #24  
Old 05-24-2017, 03:21 PM
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Those codes for what the transmission guy pulled back in 2015 the toll whole light flashes only when it does it's downshift an engine rev I have not tried starting it since he looked at it last week I may give it a try this afternoon when I go out to where it is sitting .

I will also just have the desk closer but I bought put in and then we will go from there to see if that corrects the problem at this point I feel like I should not of gone to school for accounting I should've went to school to be a mechanic

yes this is been ongoing since the batteries were hooked up backwards .

as far as if he is still my friend I would say probably not because the urge to punch him for not replacing the part he said he would replace buying the part and taking my money yeah not make me a happy camper and I live in Minnesota .
 
  #25  
Old 05-25-2017, 07:00 AM
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I bet the screw is from the ignition switch.
 
  #26  
Old 05-25-2017, 08:55 AM
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There is several causes for shift problems. Did you speedometer work the last time it was shifting wrong? Did the needle jump around? Does the odometer show how many miles on the truck?

If you have a different cluster to try, here is some step by step on how to pull the cluster out. It really is simple to do but the bezel can break easily.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...t-cluster.html

I am sure there is YouTube videos to help also.

You really need to get the codes pulled again to make sure it isn't the VSS again. It may have been replaced, but it could have a bad wire going to it.

If your "friend" took the PCM out, then the wait to start light won't come on if you try to start the truck an it won't start.

Kevin
 
  #27  
Old 05-25-2017, 10:53 AM
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My speedometer has worked all along. No jumping or change it is 5 mph off because of larger tires on the truck from previous owner.
The mechanic shop that I took it to this year stated that everything including the wire on the top of the transmission is ok and that they said to repair the speed cluster because that is where "their" scanner was pointing the issue was. So I guess I will swap out the one I have and if it fixes the problem great then I will send in the one that originally was in my truck. The mileage is at about 263xxx.


Truck started and ran last night so maybe he didn't remove anything or at least anything that affected my starting it, dome light worked, door alarm worked, lights worked, wait to start light worked.
 
  #28  
Old 05-25-2017, 11:41 AM
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Any chance you can get the actual code(s) from the mechanic who scanned it?
 
  #29  
Old 05-25-2017, 12:02 PM
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P0500 they cleared it and it came back right away. Additional notes tester pinpointed towards programable intrument/speedo module. Which means the intrustment cluster to them.
 
  #30  
Old 05-25-2017, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by whisper237
Then I mentioned this whole thing to my friend who then said he knew it was probably the part under the dash that usually goes out from the windshield leaking, he checked it out said it was swollen and the rear was blown out
Been thinking about this ...

The only thing I can think of is he (your ex friend) was looking at the Premium Sound Amplifier. It's up under the dash above the go peddle a bit. On the 97's the radio did not have an amplifier to power the speakers so it used an external amplifier module. Usually an aftermarket radio would not use this module because it would have a built in amplifier or one provided new by the manufacture. Although it's possible it could be reused.

When I changed my 97 radio to aftermarket it was easier just to leave the existing amplifier in place, as it was a real pain to remove. I only had to unplug the speakers plug from the module and using an adapter cable connect that to my new radio. I just left the power plugged into it as it was difficult to get to. I could see a possibility where reversing the batteries could cause that Premium Sound Amplifier module to fry, as described, but would think it would cause some smoke and heck of a stick in the cab for awhile.

That screw you pictured could be one of the hold down bolts for the original amplifier, just a guess at this end. Do you know if he took the part with him? Guess you could crawl under the dash and take a look. The module is just to the left of the radio way, way, way up high, but visible.

Of course this does not fix your issue, but might explain some things. Best of luck, keep us informed on progress please.
 


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