Thanks for this this thread SWV10. I have a new Kenwood eXelon DDX 395 head unit that I just purchased along with an iDatalink Maestro RR module and FO1 harness. I found a video on how to wire up the backup camera into the Kenwood but I don't think I want to try this myself.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9XWU...ature=youtu.be

I'll just install it and continue to use the display in the rear view mirror for now.

I picked up one of these to be able to retain the stock USB input.

 

Honestly. It was just plug and play. I hooked the head unit up to the idatalink maestro rr, with the fo1 harness. And the factory mic just works. The supplied Kenwood mic is still in its original packaging and I won't be needing it.

 

Thanks! I’ve programmed the Maestro RR to retain SYNC for everything so hopefully it will work for me too.

 

Did you get everything installed?

 

Sort of, but not 100%.... I got everything installed (and it does use the stock mic) but I'm having a problem with the Kenwood not powering off automatically when I turn the key to OFF and open the door like with the stock radio. I contacted ADS/iDatalink through their forum and they told me that I plugged in a 3rd connector plug (8-pin) from the OEM harness to the FO1 harness that I shouldn't have connected, and its backfeeding power to the radio. I have to manually shut it off until I get it fixed. We're supposed to get warmer weather on the weekend so I can try to get it working 100% then. I don't have warm, dry garage to do this and I don't want to pull the dash bezel off in freezing weather .

During my install, the Maestro RR didn't go through the expected ACC-OFF cycle routine but it seems to be working right. The power backfeed may have caused that problem. So I'll probably need to reprogram the Maestro RR while I have the dash apart again.

I also need to find the connector for the upfitter switches. When I went to put everything back together I couldn't find that plug. I wonder if the extra plug that I connected is supposed to go to the upfitter switches!?

Other than the above, the only problem I had was that the stock screws to secure the head unit weren't long enough for the new install. I used the Metra 95-5812 Dash Kit to mount the new head unit and it uses spacers that push it out about a 1/4" so I had to go to Home Depot and get longer screws.

I have to say that it was a very tight fit to get the Maestro RR and the long FO1 harness stuffed back into the space for the radio.

One really nice thing about the new FO1 harness is that they now provide a plug to go into the OBDII connector so you don't have to mess with splicing and soldering in the 2 wires to get the gauges and vehicle info functionality.

 

I had just about every problem you mentioned. My HU wouldn't shut off. Same thing, I had to unplug the 8 pin harness. I think it is just laying in there now.
To make (a little) more room you can easily bend the rear metal bracket. Some people cut it off, but I just bent it so it could be reused Incase I ever reinstalled the stock radio.
As for screws, I ended up having to use some wood trim screws I had laying around. Actually worked really good. But shouldn't have to make things work like that.
One thing is for sure. You get real good at taking the dash apart.

 

Thanks for this. I'll check that when I take the radio back out.

 

No problem. Just double check to make sure that 8 pin connector isn't for the upfitter switches.

 

Well, I suppose it's possible if the upfitter switch uses an 8-pin plug. I didn't think about it when I had the dash apart before.

Here's a video showing the stereo removal in a 2014 F-250. I doubt the stereo installation is different on my 2016 but its possible.


It looks like the connector for the upfitter switches originates from below the horizontal, grey metal piece that's below the head unit. If that's the case then it's unlikely the connector that I plugged into the FO1 harness but I'll see when I get it apart again.

 

I was able to pull the head unit back out and disconnect the 8-pin connector today. I reset the Maestro RR while I was at it. The connectors for the Maestro RR are a bit difficult to disconnect and reconnect especially while holding in the programming button.

I took the 8-pin connector that I had disconnected from the FO1 harness and plugged it into the back of the upfitter switches module. It’s exactly the same connector. I also found what looks like the other end of the cable with the identical 8-pin connector beside the 12V outlet on the lower left side. That cable didn’t seem long enough to reach the back of the upfitter switch module so I left it sitting loose behind the dash bezel. My truck only has the 12V outlet on that small trim piece.

While I had the head unit out, I was able to bend back the aluminum piece in the back of the radio cavity as well so I had a little more space but I found it works best when you place the Maestro RR under the head unit.

I turned the key to ACC and the programming started up and went exactly as it’s supposed to this time. It only took about 4-5 seconds for each step of the OFF-ACC programming cycle.

Everything with the head unit works perfectly now and the upfitter switches light up as they should. I don’t have anything on the upfitter switches to test them though.