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Well, if you did not get an open there with it plugged in, it would be a bad relay.
Don't confuse the battery junction box with the central junction box. Two different places on the truck. I think I was right to put fuse 13 up there after reading the diagrams again. Fuse 13 under the hood...not the dash.
Ok, I was checking under dash, and that is where I got continuity at pins 1 and 2 on relays 206 and 209.
I will check the continuity at fuse 13 under hood.
Still confused with the relay I put in 209. I have tried at least 2 different relays there. 1 of which came out of my other excursion and known good.
Granted it did not test the washer pump to ground cable each time. I will check tonight but is there anything else that would ground the washer pump power wire if a good relay was put in?
Ok, I have continuity between pin 5 on relay socket and fuse 13 in engine bay fuse box.
Every relay I have has continuity between pin 4 and pin 3. As you can tell from my photo it appears when relay is not activated it sends a ground signal to washer pump power wire. Is that right? Pin 4 socket is a confirmed ground.
That is correct according to the diagrams. When the relay is activated, it will switch from a 4/3 connection to a 5/3 connection. Make a little jumper wire, pull the relay and connect 5/3 yourself with the jumper. see what happens.
On each relay, you should have pin 1 hot all the time with the key in ACC or RUN. The GEM has circuitry that connects to pin 2. When that circuitry is activated, it allows current to flow through the coil from pin 1 to pin 2. That in turn throws the switch on the other side of the relay to connect pin 5 to pin 3 and activate the pump. In its normal "grounded" state, the relay has no current through the coil, and the pump is grounded to pin 4.
Here is the circuitry for the washer controls to the GEM:
Pin 6 (light blue/orange) is your INPUT to the GEM from your switch. Pin 20 (dark blue) is the ground. Make sure the ground is still good (not compromised).
Pin 1 (tan/red) is your OUTPUT from the GEM. It tells the relay to activate and allow current/voltage to flow to the pump for the front window fluid flow.
Pin 22 (dark green) is the OUTPUT from the GEM for the rear window relay. This sends voltage to the pump from the opposite direction and makes the pump spin backwards and send the fluid out the other port and to the rear window.
Pin 5 should be hot from the 10A fuse in position 13 of the battery junction box. Connecting it to Pin 3 should activate the pump and bypass the GEM inputs/outputs. Also don't forget to check continuity (end-to-end/and to ground) on the wires from the switch down to the GEM. They could have rubbed on the column and shorted out or opened up.
OK. Fuse 13 (10 amps) supplies CONSTANT 12V to pin 5 according to the diagrams. Even with the key off. You should have 12V to pin 5 via the white/black wire coming from the fuse and going to Pin 5 on BOTH relays (front and rear). If you don't, that is likely your problem.
Fuse 13's socket was a little loose. Bent fuse legs in opposite directions and fuse fit tighter. Then I had power to pin 5 and after installing relay, both front and rear squirters worked.
THANK YOU
I would have pulled my hair out trying to find this issue!!!
Have new motorcraft multifunction switch coming......all the markings were wore off old one anyhow.
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