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88-F150 4WD Antilock brake light is coming on intermediately. Sometimes it goes off when I start it and stays off. Looked in book and it seems complicated. Can I live with this or can it give me trouble down the road?
There is a sensor on top of your differential, check and make sure the connection is clean inside the connector, if that doesn't fix it replace the sender. Be on the look out for excessive metal shavings tho. If there are this indicates a badly worn tone ring in the rear.
I have been reading posts about RABS and am not clear on which wire to ground to get the flash codes. My truck is a 1991 F250 supercab 2wd 8800 GVW. I think there is a red wire and green wire going to the RABS plug.
First, I pulled the fuse for the ABS then I took the bulb out of the dash. Now I have a truck with regular non- abs brakes. I have heard of some ABS modules costing upwards 800.00 or more.
I'm not shure how DIRECTLY related it is but it's pretty much on the same topic. if you have a automatic vehicle with front wheel drive and rear abs can you smoke (i dunno what to call it it's where you put your foot on the brake and then give it gas and spin your tires but go nowhere.) the tires. does your abs kick in or not if not why not. or is this whole question completly obsurd.
thanks
(I'm not a cat so i don't think it'll kill me!!!(I hope!)
Ret, the yellow light indicates that your antilock function doesn't work, the red light indicates that your brakes don't work. Both should light when you turn the key to the start position to verify that the bulbs work.
Red light can also indicate that the parking brake is not fully released or that a diesel truck has low vacuum.
brakes are fine, no problem with the red brake light. I like the idea of disconnecting the abs system if the orange light comes on. Ford had a bad idea there, money wise
I was looking at an RABS connector under the hood, near the master cylinder. I have been told that the correct connnector is under the dash, near the parking brake pedal.
Found the right wire, single black/orange stripe near parking brake pedal. Grounded wire for a second while yellow antilock warning light was lit. I got code 9, sensor resistance high. Found a reference somewhere that said resistance should be 1000 Ohms to 2500 Ohms. Mine was open - infinite resistance. Quick trip to the Ford dealer for a very reasonably priced replacement and now no warning light.
I grounded mine to the base of the dimmer switch, it was right there and bare metal.
Ground it with the truck running and showing a yellow antilock warning light. The controller doesn't store codes, when you turn off the ignition the code is gone.
BTW, the RABS connector up near the master cylinder that initially confused me may be for a 4x4 vehicle, antilock is disabled in 4wd.
Just wanted to ad to the conversation, have a Rear Anti-Lock Brake light that has been on since I bought my new project truck (1990 F-250 4X4 w/ 7.3 Diesel). I've been working out some electrical problem on the truck like will not crank during cold start ???? when I noticed a rather loose brown wire just below the brake fluid resovoir. I reconnected it with a little jerry rigging and the ABS light on the dash is off. Ok I know this is'nt much help to anyone just thought I would add to the talk and was wonder what these wires were actually for.
I can't get an inspection sticker for my '95 because the e-brake and abs lights are on (and have been on most of the summer ) Midas technician has fixed my one brake problem (caliper) but the lights are still on because the sensor is being tricked by an AIR LEAK THROUGH A SMALL ROUND HOLE IN THE REAR AXLE?? I can see the hole and it looks like a drill hole, but does his explanation make sense to anyone?
the lights are still on because the sensor is being tricked by an AIR LEAK THROUGH A SMALL ROUND HOLE IN THE REAR AXLE??
I guess anything is possible, but that does sound implausible. Where did this hole come from? Has this problem been there since you got the truck? Is there oil coming out of the hole?
If I were in your position, I would work on the problems indicated by the red light first, basic mechanical/hydraulic brake system. Antilock can't work if you have other brake problems.
Originally posted by gts
....Midas technician has fixed my one brake problem (caliper) but the lights are still on because the sensor is being tricked by an AIR LEAK THROUGH A SMALL ROUND HOLE IN THE REAR AXLE?? ...
....That's nuts! The sensor is magnetic. What's an air leak got to do with anything.If he fixed your brakes right and bled them properly (for which you need the ford scan tool). your lights should be out.
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