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From what I've seen....it's called a seal. Kinda like the rear seal for the yoke on the tranny.
If Dave and Bud (the mechanics) say they can do it etc....I believe them. They've never steered me wrong. They rebuilt my TH400 trans for my '68 Firebird 400 3 years ago and haven't had a single issue with it and there is a 550hp motor sitting in front of the trans!
I'm going to remember this since I may attempt a rebuild. I've done quite a few motors but never a trans. I was always content with the 4spds but been thinking about converting 2 more trucks I have to auto...but all takes time. The one I was referring to earlier was C6 I swapped in place of the 4spd in my father in laws 65 F100.
Thanks for the great replies and the awesome how-to guys. I'm distracted right now with new header gaskets but will give this a go when I get some time. Thanks again!
hey deeproots
im having trouble getting the shift level back into place , like you said it was tricky. it sure is. i have the same style spring design as the one in your picture.
but i'm having trouble getting it back into place with the right tooth. assuming the park tooth is the farthest one.
also while wiggling trying to get it to pop in place i accidentally pulled the rod out of the transmission, i've got it back in, but i want to make sure there is nothing on the other end is now lose. or is it just a push rod?
is this the right tooth (park)?
and is it okay i've pulled this rod and out put it back?
i've got it back together with the new seal and o ring, i just want to make sure about that shift rod on the inside of the trans.
while trying to get the linkage back together i pulled that rod out by accident (picture below)
i slid it back in and everything seems fine, but i want to make sure nothing came off the other end of the rod.
am i all good here?
thanks guys.
hehe, that is why I said be careful about pulling it out or pushing it in too far :P Pushing it too far can get it jammed in there (which sucks worse)
If you look back at the picture I have where the tailshaft is out, the linkage arm has a nipple on it that needs to go into the plate with a slot cut in it. The larger round portion of that is what presses the parking pawl.
Once you get the nipple in, just get the lever on there and worry about getting it into park later.
and yes that picture you took IS the park tooth.
Pro-tip
In order to install it in the park it'll require you to push hard in order to engage the parking pawl and depending on the parking gear location you may not be able to get it into park.
That is why in the picture you see me install it in reverse. once everything is attached and bolted together I put it in park (may require rotating the output a lil or rolling the truck to engage the park gear).
hehe, that is why I said be careful about pulling it out or pushing it in too far :P Pushing it too far can get it jammed in there (which sucks worse)
If you look back at the picture I have where the tailshaft is out, the linkage arm has a nipple on it that needs to go into the plate with a slot cut in it. The larger round portion of that is what presses the
parking pawl.
Once you get the nipple in, just get the lever on there and worry about getting it into park later.
and yes that picture you took IS the park tooth.
Pro-tip
In order to install it in the park it'll require you to push hard in order to engage the parking pawl and depending on the parking gear location you may not be able to get it into park.
That is why in the picture you see me install it in reverse. once everything is attached and bolted together I put it in park (may require rotating the output a lil or rolling the truck to engage the park gear).
Drew
Thanks for the response drew,
however im still confused on which nipple your referring too. i did get everything into place by installing it in reverse. i didn't have to push to hard on anything so i don't think anything got jammed.
but i do want to make sure everything is back into proper location. i'm a novice, especially with the transmission.
is the nipple your talking about on the rod that i pulled out?
and also when bolting the valve body back up, do i have to line those shift lever and kickdown lever with anything on the valve body.
there is this cylinder that slides back and forth freely (picture below) , should this be in any certain position when re installed?
By nipple I meant the end of the shift rod^ with everything assembled I've had it slide out and I've gotten it stuck going in wrong.
Anyway you seem to have that under control.
The picture you took is of the shift valve in the valve body.
Yes you need to get that set on the shift linkage along with the kickdown while reinstalling the valve body.
Takes some jiggling to get it all set up. Don't force anything.
When reinstalling the valve body, do not over tighten.
When it's all back together, test the kickdown and shift linkage to make sure it all works before putting the pan back on.
By nipple I meant the end of the shift rod^ with everything assembled I've had it slide out and I've gotten it stuck going in wrong.
Anyway you seem to have that under control.
The picture you took is of the shift valve in the valve body.
Yes you need to get that set on the shift linkage along with the kickdown while reinstalling the valve body.
Takes some jiggling to get it all set up. Don't force anything.
When reinstalling the valve body, do not over tighten.
When it's all back together, test the kickdown and shift linkage to make sure it all works before putting the pan back on.
Drew
when i pulled the vavle body down i didn't get the best visual of where the kick down and shift lever mated with the shift valve.
which one goes to which slot?
On the valve body the kickdown is the springy one that self centers.
The actual gear shift lever has a **** that fits into the slot of the valve body valve. (the big cylinder)
If you need I can go take some pictures, I'm sure I have a valve body laying around here somewhere.
There is no magic to getting it installed.... just trial and error since you can't see anything. As you put the valve body into the transmission just get the shift lever into that valve body slot and wiggle the kickdown until it feels right.
Lemme get outta the shop for a second and I'll upload a picture or two. (shop computer is slow and mostly for music, and I don't mind blowing welding slag on it)
On the valve body the kickdown is the springy one that self centers.
The actual gear shift lever has a **** that fits into the slot of the valve body valve. (the big cylinder)
If you need I can go take some pictures, I'm sure I have a valve body laying around here somewhere.
There is no magic to getting it installed.... just trial and error since you can't see anything. As you put the valve body into the transmission just get the shift lever into that valve body slot and wiggle the kickdown until it feels right.
Lemme get outta the shop for a second and I'll upload a picture or two. (shop computer is slow and mostly for music, and I don't mind blowing welding slag on it)
is this the spring one that self centres? where the kick down goes?
Ok you obviously won't be able to see this because you'll be on the other side of it.....
but this is what it should look like assembled so it can help you visualize it. The big one on the left is the gear selector, the one on the right is the kickdown.
Last shot is a valve body dissembled just in case you ever consider doing one :P
Any other questions ask today, I'm headed back offshore for a month at 2am and won't have access to my c6 scrap pile.
In the future I'm really more of a Holley carburetor/distributor kinda guy, if you need help with those, pm me.
drew those pictures are so helpful, thank you so much.
last two questions c6 related.
1) should i change the filter on the vavle body with it bolted up to the trans or while it's on my work bench?
ive read you shouldn't be flipping them around too much, is that true?
2) what is the torque spec for the filter and vavle body, so i don't over torque?
and also i would love to pick your brain about my holley and distributor. i've never pm on here, how do i do that?
