1968 f250 new engine problems
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4,844
Likes: 602
From: Minnesota
Almost a guaranty that the "new" condenser is suspect. Do you have the original ford condenser. The other option is to change a petronix setup and eliminate the points and condenser completely!
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5th Wheeling
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 29
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I have a petronix kit ive tired on here that doesn't seem to work either. So I tried some other things like making sure the plugs where gaped properly and played with the timing some more. But I also tried spraying some carb cleaner down the carb and it seemed to sputter a bit. Even though the carb is definitely squirting fuel... So i pulled the carb off and put a Holley I had laying around that I built for someone who never came to pick it up and it sputters everytime now. So I played with carb adjustment some timing and It gets so close it might even run for a few seconds before dying. Eventually I got it to fire and I kept it alive by pedaling it but it sounded horrible not like a knock or anything just really lazy and groggy. I could even put the pedal to the floor and it wouldn't really rev it felt like mabye only a few cylinders where firing kinda shaky so I just turned it off and adjusted the timing and I got it better and kept adjusting and it was so close but the final time I adjusted it nothing. And when I set it back to where it was it does nothing now. I don't get it
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5th Wheeling
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 29
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update
So yesterday another buddy of mine took a crack at it. And we found that by advancing it alot it would fire up and run but it idols way too high because its way too advanced and when putting the light on it it reads about 20-25 can't quite tell but in that ballpark. If I attempt to retard it down anything below 20 it will start to die and even when put back up to 20 it dies same goes for adjusting the carb any idol adjustments and it dies. So I'm very confused by this. the chain was installed in the standard 0 setting. Its a edelbrock double roller set. Before when I had the truck running I had put the distributor in at 10 degrees and then retarded it down to 8 and it ran pretty good there. But this time I put it to 0 and it wont run unless its 20+. I had the old distributor in set in at 0 and adjusted to 8 and it ran good too till the gear pin sheared off. Any ideas?
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
Likes: 199
From: Phoenix, Az.
Take the wire off the "+" side of the coil. With the key ON there should be 6-8 volts at that wire. Cranking there should be 12.
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