Front caliper stuck
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 184
Likes: 5
Front caliper stuck
Hey guys, i took my truck for the first test drive today and got a little ways down the road. My front brakes were completely stuck on, i opened the bleeder on the driver side to relieve the pressure and made it back home. It was stuck so bad the truck wouldn't move. I did hold the pin in on the P valve while bleeding the front, im wondering if i didn't have it pushed in enough. Any suggestion where i should start looking first?
-New master cyl
-new calipers
-new hard lines and hoses
-New master cyl
-new calipers
-new hard lines and hoses
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 184
Likes: 5
hmm, it is a new booster as well. forgot to mention that. i read in another thread, a guy had the same problem and it was the brake switch on the pedal was turned out too much and wasn't allowing the pedal to come back out all the way. i'm going to check that after work.
but hopefully i get some more ideas where to look.
but hopefully i get some more ideas where to look.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,217
Likes: 154
If your rubber brake hoses are old and showing cracks in the rubber, then they could be causing a check-valve action.
Master cylinder is strong enough to push fluid into the caliper, but the caliper retracting is not strong enough to force it back to the master cylinder, causing the brakes to stick.
Master cylinder is strong enough to push fluid into the caliper, but the caliper retracting is not strong enough to force it back to the master cylinder, causing the brakes to stick.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,217
Likes: 154
As I just mistakenly posted in the other brake thread: I was just reading a brake fluid discussion on my Corolla's forum, and a guy there said that he has had some brake hoses swell shut after switching to DOT4 fluid.
And another possibility is the metal retaining bracket, if there is one. They're usually bent to curl around the hose. But if they're too tight, they will cause the check-valve effect as well. Real common on the Tempo and Topaz. I fixed several of them by simply using a flat-blade screwdriver to spread the curl, so as to increase its diameter and let up on that hose!
And another possibility is the metal retaining bracket, if there is one. They're usually bent to curl around the hose. But if they're too tight, they will cause the check-valve effect as well. Real common on the Tempo and Topaz. I fixed several of them by simply using a flat-blade screwdriver to spread the curl, so as to increase its diameter and let up on that hose!
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 184
Likes: 5
if i pull the master off, how do i determine the correct length of the push rod. and if it's too long, how do you shorten it?
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Fleet Owner
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From: NorCal
Shortening is a matter of turning the threaded end.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 184
Likes: 5
just to confirm i'm understanding this correctly.
Between the brake switch adjustment and the booster rod. I should have 15/16" from master mount plate to the tip of the rod, with the pedal in nutrual position? Meaning if i set the switch first and then ajust the rod length to accomadate the how much the switch pushes it out further.
and also is that length the same for all of these trucks?
mines a 79 f250
Between the brake switch adjustment and the booster rod. I should have 15/16" from master mount plate to the tip of the rod, with the pedal in nutrual position? Meaning if i set the switch first and then ajust the rod length to accomadate the how much the switch pushes it out further.
and also is that length the same for all of these trucks?
mines a 79 f250
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
Another vote for the power booster. Just replaced my booster and master cylinder (came as one unit). While diagnosing neither front wheel would free wheel when raised. Thought I also had a caliper problem. After replacement of booster and master cylinder they now free wheel just fine. I did read that the intake manifold port where the vacuum hose connects can muck up with carbon, esp if you are running a rich mixture. I checked my and found no problem. Give it a look.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 647
Likes: 10
From: SOUTHBURY CT
just to confirm i'm understanding this correctly.
Between the brake switch adjustment and the booster rod. I should have 15/16" from master mount plate to the tip of the rod, with the pedal in nutrual position? Meaning if i set the switch first and then ajust the rod length to accomadate the how much the switch pushes it out further.
and also is that length the same for all of these trucks?
mines a 79 f250
Between the brake switch adjustment and the booster rod. I should have 15/16" from master mount plate to the tip of the rod, with the pedal in nutrual position? Meaning if i set the switch first and then ajust the rod length to accomadate the how much the switch pushes it out further.
and also is that length the same for all of these trucks?
mines a 79 f250
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 647
Likes: 10
From: SOUTHBURY CT
just to confirm i'm understanding this correctly.
Between the brake switch adjustment and the booster rod. I should have 15/16" from master mount plate to the tip of the rod, with the pedal in nutrual position? Meaning if i set the switch first and then ajust the rod length to accomadate the how much the switch pushes it out further.
and also is that length the same for all of these trucks?
mines a 79 f250
Between the brake switch adjustment and the booster rod. I should have 15/16" from master mount plate to the tip of the rod, with the pedal in nutrual position? Meaning if i set the switch first and then ajust the rod length to accomadate the how much the switch pushes it out further.
and also is that length the same for all of these trucks?
mines a 79 f250
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 184
Likes: 5
that is the case for me, my cab and pedal is from a 77 and the booster/master cyl is from a 74.
your saying it's tough to get it ajusted correctly? can't i just set it too the 15/16" and i'll be on my way?
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 647
Likes: 10
From: SOUTHBURY CT
Yup. I can gerrantee mixed parts are the problem. U have to find the parts as a set for. A 79. I had to buy a whole junk 79 f250 for the parts . Don't bother trying parts to match yours. Just get all the parts from the same parts truck the 79 pedal has a particular part number on it. But I forget the number . Good luck. If u must drive the truck carry thec9/16 wrench and broom stick with u.