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What makes this job a bad one is the tank is boxed-in between the frame rails on the sides, and cross rails directly behind the tank and in front.
The fuel lines run ABOVE the forward cross-rail rail, below the bed.
The tank has to DROP to be removed.
The steel nipples of the fuel pump set the direction of the fuel lines.
The return fuel line does not face the side rail that the fuel lines are run on, so there's a 90 degree connector that allows the tank to drop.
But the supply line faces that rail.
So the factory uses a straight connector, and I cannot see how anyone could drop that tank (with that line above that cross rail), without breaking that supply line fitting (which I obviously did).
The factory obviously assembled this with the bed off.
So after installing a repair barbed coupling on a Dorman repair straight connector, it's impossible, so far, to snap that straight connector on that tank with what little room is available, as it's peeking out from behind that cross-rail.
My other option is cut off a section of fuel line with straight connector, snap it onto the fuel pump nipple, put it up, letting the cut fuel line tail poke through the opening at the top of the cross-rail, then make an annoying barbed connector connection up near the bottom of the bed.
I dropped the rear tank on my 1992 F350 with two ratchet straps and very little drama. The most difficult part was getting the fuel lines loose. My fancy metal disconnect tools were worthless. I ended up buying some cheap plastic release tools.
The rear tank is a wh0re, no doubt, but I've always drained the tank and gotten to the lines by dropping the straps and tilting the front of the tank down enough to snake my arm up there to remove the lines. I've never had an issue this way.
Try unclipping the feed and return lines from the crossmember and up the drivers side frame rail to the selector valve.
Now you should have enough slack to attach them and get the tank back in.
My '87 is a real PITA because of the receiver hitch bolted on both sides.
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