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I agree, DieselSite has some nice products, but you pay for them.
I almost didn't pull the trigger on it either as I had very bad experiences with their Max A/C assist and the support following those problems led me to removing the device altogether and installing the Ranger version.
I might make something down the road, but for now I think I'll just give the stock one a couple of turns in. Gotta be an improvement, right?
I guess I'll fiddle with it from there.
Thanks for taking time to answer my dumb questions
please post your results. I had been running with the red line off and have it back on now. I would like to adjust it to open later but also don't want to spend 180 for the adjustable dieselsite one.
I was planning on turning it in 6 turns, but it bottomed out about 5 1/2, so that's where it is now
Updates:
The wastegate actuator is installed on the turbo, which has all the sealing surfaces prepped and ready to install.
The pedestal is surfaced and prepped, with the EBPV Solenoid and the actuator/piston both installed, ready to install.
The Driver's side plenum is removed and the surface prepped using a wrag and brake cleaner. It was about the easiest thing to remove...didn't someone say they should have some kind of RTV on them?
Not much of a seal.
We chose to do this side first, since it is much easier to access. We also installed the orings on the new billet plenums so they would get used to their shape over lunch. We are going to put some petroleum jelly on them to hold in place for installation.
I was wondering who the 'we' was! Don't forget to pull those paper towels out before planting the new plenums, you don't want that story on your T shirt!
I was wondering who the 'we' was! Don't forget to pull those paper towels out before planting the new plenums, you don't want that story on your T shirt!
I hear that!
As soon as the other half of "we" finishes her chicken, we'll be back at it again.
I have a feeling I'm going to forget to install the EBP tubing I've had for a few years
I see one big problem! The plenums are the F-250 version, and they WILL NOT fit your Excursion. As a matter of fact, I think they are 2000 F-250 versions!
You must immediately put your OEM plenums back on and put the new ones (wrong ones) in a box and send them to me. I will do my best to modify them for you, but have to resort to installing them on my 2000 F-250...
I will be watching for the UPS, FedEx or USPS truck shortly, I am sure you understand...
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Everything above this line was BS. Looks like you got lucky with cleaning the surface of the plenums. I have seen people using wire wheels before.
Well, Mark, looks like I'll have to WALK to deliver them
Can you guys spot the problem? Missing parts?
I need FIVE studs, or longer studs with FIVE tapered spacers (countersink spacers).
There are NO STUDS in the package and only one each of two different thickness spacers.
My studs are too short for the thicker plenums.
Yes, the studs and countersink spacers are in the instructions, too.
Although I had a "Wishlist" made up, I insisted on speaking directly with Clay and recall the specific "Excursion/GPCM" conversation, so I'm sure we communicated about the correct set of plenums...though it seems I didn't get the right hardware kit?
The Driver's plenum fit great, so I'm thinking it's just the hardware screw up.
"Our office is now closed" via telephone... (double Grrr...)
Looks like I'll have to see what I can source locally on a Saturday night, probably have to MAKE spacers on the lathe (manual taper)...HOURS and HOURS of work
That sucks, sorry for the mix up. I guess I was right in saying that the kit was not made for your application.
I do know that I am closer to you than Paul is, so if you decide to ditch that project, shipping costs will be cheaper to me. Of course, I can re-reimburse you.
Seriously though, I hope you can work the fix action out soon. What I gather is because the Excursion has the GPCM instead of the relay, it requires an additional tapered studs than what you have on hand or the kit did or did not come?
That sucks, sorry for the mix up. I guess I was right in saying that the kit was not made for your application.
I do know that I am closer to you than Paul is, so if you decide to ditch that project, shipping costs will be cheaper to me. Of course, I can re-reimburse you.
Seriously though, I hope you can work the fix action out soon. What I gather is because the Excursion has the GPCM instead of the relay, it requires an additional tapered studs than what you have on hand or the kit did or did not come?
I do appreciate the humor from you guys
I think I DID get the "White F250" version, LOL.
I think we have a fix in the works. Found some countersink round bolts the exact same size as the kit (here in my garage).
Also found M8x1.25 x50mm and x60mm, full threads that fit the engine and should be long enough to cut the head off and make studs. Also from my garage. They are 8.8's, which are equivalent to Grade 5's, I think? Only 89 INCH-lbs of torque and quenched and tempered (see this link: https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...ade-chart.aspx ), so *should* be good enough for the intake plenums.
We drilled 21/64 holes through the donor bolt heads with the intention of cutting off the bolt part afterwards, but when we got to the bottom of the taper, the heads just popped off!
They make perfect countersink washers!
I called around but couldn't find the bolts with full threads needed to turn them into studs, but had the exact ones here on the shelf!
Count our blessings!
I found some class 10.5 nuts, washers, lock washers at Lowes, so we made the quick dash there to get them.
Here are some pics.
This kit didn't have ANY studs, but it had two non-countersink bolts.
We're going to call it a night from the garage. Just grabbing supper. Looks like we're into another day, but at least the Mrs. is good about it. I'm on breakfast and grill duty tomorrow
I'd be happy just to take your old plenums (plena?) off your hands when you're finished up.
Of course! I haven't checked them for true yet, but they literally popped right off with very minimal effort. One stick with a putty knife and it was off
I only had to use brake cleaner and a rag to get the head cleaned up nicely. So I'm thinking they will clean up nice for you
Hmmm, this only solidifies the fact that when I do upgrade the turbo and injectors I should get the billet plenums as well. Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming.
Hmmm, this only solidifies the fact that when I do upgrade the turbo and injectors I should get the billet plenums as well. Keep up the good work and keep the pictures coming.
They really are a nice piece of work. It's bad luck the wrong bolt kit came with it, but the rest of it really is nice!
My advice is to do the driver's side first. It's much easier and it is positioned more towards the back, away from all the "stuff" in the front.
When you put the orings on, have a helper and put each end in place first and work towards the middle. Helps keep it from stretching thin in spots.
If it had the correct hardware with it, the install would have been very simple, once you get things stripped out of the way.
Just take lots of pics so you know what goes where. And keep track where your bolts and studs go. Make a drawing. It really will help.
Keep in mind there are 2 different length bolts, shorter for the thinner parts.
Really looking forward to seeing (hopefully feeling) the difference with the plenums and boots sealed, with the new wheel!
Your old wheel looks a little chewed up, but not bad at all. You are going to love the new one, trust me on this.
This is on my "turbo refresh" list for this summer.
Originally Posted by ExPACamper
They really are a nice piece of work. It's bad luck the wrong bolt kit came with it, but the rest of it really is nice!
My advice is to do the driver's side first. It's much easier and it is positioned more towards the back, away from all the "stuff" in the front.
When you put the orings on, have a helper and put each end in place first and work towards the middle. Helps keep it from stretching thin in spots.
If it had the correct hardware with it, the install would have been very simple, once you get things stripped out of the way.
Just take lots of pics so you know what goes where. And keep track where your bolts and studs go. Make a drawing. It really will help.
Keep in mind there are 2 different length bolts, shorter for the thinner parts.
Really looking forward to seeing (hopefully feeling) the difference with the plenums and boots sealed, with the new wheel!
Nice work! Following along...I sure wish they plenums for the E99. I am actually considering the RiffRaff upgrade kit...for the low price of $1600, but hey, it's cheaper than getting another Superduty.
05-13-2017, 07:54 AM
