Which 9" is best?
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 71
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From: Fort McMurray
Which 9" is best?
Next week I am going to pick up a 1950 F-47 that my dad left to me. He told me it runs nice but that there was a problem with the diff.
I'm thinking I am going to change it to a 9" ford diff.
My question is: what donor vehicle would supply the best match diff for this truck?
Thanks,
Larry
I'm thinking I am going to change it to a 9" ford diff.
My question is: what donor vehicle would supply the best match diff for this truck?
Thanks,
Larry
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
Likes: 653
From: Brentwood, TN
My suggestion would be to not limit yourself to just the 9 inch...an 8.8 out of a 1996 and later Explorer XLT 5.0 is a great option. TracLok, 3:73 gear ratio, 32 spline axles, larger axle tubes, and disc brakes make this a potent combo...AND...there are many of them available for not much cash.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
Most of the 9" are 40+ yrs old now, at least the desirable 57 to 72 models that are the correct width and bolt pattern. Tough to find a good one at a reasonable price and good condition. They are heavy, too. But still many reasons to go that route.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,995
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From: u-rah-rah Wisconsin
This reference doc has helped out a few others in your situation: https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles...rential-swaps/
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 9,718
Likes: 823
From: Wentzville, MO
Just so you know.
Disks in the back and drums is the front is a little back asswards.
The explorer 8.8 won't be the same bolt pattern as your 5 1/2" truck pattern. So you'll need adapters to get the 4.5 bolt pattern back to the 5.5 to match the fronts. Also, if you use an explorer 8.8 with disks you'll need to upgrade the master cylinder to a dual bowl (maybe even power) and a proportioning valve.
From the web: "Unfortunately, while the 5x4.5 bolt pattern is common to many passenger cars, the offset and hub hole size are not."
The 57-72 F 100 9" is a true bolt in. No MODs other than different U bolts (don't use either your old ones or the donors, cheap insurance) & lower shock mounts. You can pull the center section, if needed, have it rebuilt (tons of aftermarket parts) and once you decided to go four wheel disks you can buy a kit to add disks.
I personally would rather have 4 wheel disks and a power master cylinder but it's a bit pricey.
Just my 2 cents worth
Disks in the back and drums is the front is a little back asswards.
The explorer 8.8 won't be the same bolt pattern as your 5 1/2" truck pattern. So you'll need adapters to get the 4.5 bolt pattern back to the 5.5 to match the fronts. Also, if you use an explorer 8.8 with disks you'll need to upgrade the master cylinder to a dual bowl (maybe even power) and a proportioning valve.
From the web: "Unfortunately, while the 5x4.5 bolt pattern is common to many passenger cars, the offset and hub hole size are not."
The 57-72 F 100 9" is a true bolt in. No MODs other than different U bolts (don't use either your old ones or the donors, cheap insurance) & lower shock mounts. You can pull the center section, if needed, have it rebuilt (tons of aftermarket parts) and once you decided to go four wheel disks you can buy a kit to add disks.
I personally would rather have 4 wheel disks and a power master cylinder but it's a bit pricey.
Just my 2 cents worth
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 71
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From: Fort McMurray
Thanks for that. It was always my intention to go power front discs with a dual master under the floor so discs in the rear is a natural upgrade.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Hot AZ (Phoenix Valley)
You can buy new 9" from companies like Currie Enterprises Currie Enterprises. Round Back Housing but they are big bucks.
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FTE fan
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: paradise, northern calif.
I was lucky and found a 9" out of a 72 F100 for $100 locally. It cost me approx. $1,000 (plus cost of new drive shaft) to totally rebuild it using all new parts end to end (including brakes, limited slip etc..), minus axles, and side adjusters in the diff. Not a bad investment for my application and needs. Like mentioned previously it depends on what direction you are going. I really enjoyed the challenge and enjoyment of rebuilding this one as I had never done one B4. Good luck whichever direction you decide to go, take pics and enjoy. The folks here on FTE helped me with every question I had, and I'm sure will do the same for you if needed. Rock On
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
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From: Brentwood, TN
I learned something today...there were Ford models that had drum brakes after the 2000 model year. I always stick with the Explorer 5.0 donors since they always have disk brakes and other desirable amenities.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,685
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From: Northville, MI
Elbow grease. 
I used a combination of scrapers, wire brushes and wire wheels of various sizes. It was a messy job. I didn't want to use a sand blaster as the grit gets into everything and I did not want to totally disassemble the axle as the wear pattern on the ring gear looked good.
I used a combination of scrapers, wire brushes and wire wheels of various sizes. It was a messy job. I didn't want to use a sand blaster as the grit gets into everything and I did not want to totally disassemble the axle as the wear pattern on the ring gear looked good.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 111
From: southwest missouri
I went with a 70 nine inch this time and have $1100.00 in it but all parts are new except the axles . I had a 8.8 in the old truck and it was a bit narrower but had disc brakes on it but now trac lok this nine " does . Getting ready to put it under the truck.