brakes
#1
#2
No , if you smashed the hoses you would still have a hard pedal .
If you fitted new calipers you have introduced air into the system .
Keep bleeding until you are 100% sure there is no air in there .
Are you using a dual circuit master cylinder ?
Are the bleeders on your calipers facing up or down ?
If you fitted new calipers you have introduced air into the system .
Keep bleeding until you are 100% sure there is no air in there .
Are you using a dual circuit master cylinder ?
Are the bleeders on your calipers facing up or down ?
#3
The piston's may not have extended. Like seaves said; make sure the bleeder screw's are at the top. Before I install the brake line's, I air up the caliper to make sure the piston extends. Just a gentle air burst will seat the caliper against the pads. Then let the caliper's gravity bleed for a bit. Be patient, good luck.
#4
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#8
#11
Makes me wonder if the master cylinder push rod is adjusted too deep. If it doesn't retract far enough it can't allow new fluid into the cylinder after depressing nor fluid to return when the pedal is released.
#12
Also incorrect residual valves or a drum brake master cyl will cause the brakes to drag and heat up .
#13
Some good tips in this documents from CPP: Classic Chevy, Chevrolet, GMC, Ford technical articles
#14
yes that was the issue before then i corrected that but had old calipers so changed them
#15
checked that and adjusted it now the weird thing i bought a mityvac bleeder kit , that doesnt pull fluid out at all ive checked the vac unit for leaks followed thhe directions on assembly and nothing ???????????? then put fluid in a small oil can and pumped it in about 12 or so pumps then brakes hold , crack the bleeders let air out and back to nothing at a complete loss here ,,, any suggestions??