Starting questions
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Starting questions
I have a 1979 Ford F-250 with a 351M. Having problems from a cold start. It acts like it wants to fire on first attempt then stops. So I have to hold the key over then it will fire after a few seconds. Also after the motor gets warm it is very slow to start.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
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RE the slow hot starts, I'd first check out the cable to the starter, and the battery cables. And make sure you have a ground from your engine to your firewall.
Another thing which could cause that is timing which is too advanced.
When you're idling in gear, the RPMs are dropping enough to lower the pressure to where it trips the light. Could be that your idle is too low, or that yor engine is getting tired...
Another thing which could cause that is timing which is too advanced.
When you're idling in gear, the RPMs are dropping enough to lower the pressure to where it trips the light. Could be that your idle is too low, or that yor engine is getting tired...
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
"Hold the key over"....meaning she'll crank for a few seconds then start? These old vehicles ain't no electric fuel infected newer VVT stuff where one just turns the key, it starts and you go
....feel lucky she starts after just a few seconds of cranking.......
Or...is this a new illness/development?
Slow hot start: You mean slow cranking then she'll start? Agree on timing might be too advanced (you want to be ~ 12*BTDC), choke adjustment (again), all electrical connections could be loose/some corrosion/old and brittle. Check the grounds, make sure the starter solenoid is properly grounded as well as those connections are tight from the BATT and starter, etc, etc.
On these starting problems, does the exhaust smell "too rich".....as in too much unburnt hydrocaborns? Any black smoke upon a hot start?
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New User
Joined: May 2017
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Carburetor = 2150? Electric choke? Might need adjusting.
"Hold the key over"....meaning she'll crank for a few seconds then start? These old vehicles ain't no electric fuel infected newer VVT stuff where one just turns the key, it starts and you go....feel lucky she starts after just a few seconds of cranking.......
Or...is this a new illness/development?
Slow hot start: You mean slow cranking then she'll start? Agree on timing might be too advanced (you want to be ~ 12*BTDC), choke adjustment (again), all electrical connections could be loose/some corrosion/old and brittle. Check the grounds, make sure the starter solenoid is properly grounded as well as those connections are tight from the BATT and starter, etc, etc.
On these starting problems, does the exhaust smell "too rich".....as in too much unburnt hydrocaborns? Any black smoke upon a hot start?
"Hold the key over"....meaning she'll crank for a few seconds then start? These old vehicles ain't no electric fuel infected newer VVT stuff where one just turns the key, it starts and you go
....feel lucky she starts after just a few seconds of cranking.......Or...is this a new illness/development?
Slow hot start: You mean slow cranking then she'll start? Agree on timing might be too advanced (you want to be ~ 12*BTDC), choke adjustment (again), all electrical connections could be loose/some corrosion/old and brittle. Check the grounds, make sure the starter solenoid is properly grounded as well as those connections are tight from the BATT and starter, etc, etc.
On these starting problems, does the exhaust smell "too rich".....as in too much unburnt hydrocaborns? Any black smoke upon a hot start?
it is electric choke and no nothing new, just getting worst. No black smoke but yes you can smell gas when it does finally start.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
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From: Taxachusetts
Fergot to mention that in gear, with the wheels chocked and the parking brake on, (and mebbe someone standing on the brake pedal), you want tt be at ~ 650 - 700 RPMs. It'll be naturally higher in park - a no load situation.
Ok, well...when was the last time you adjusted the mixture screws with a vacuum gauge? You didn't mention what carb you have or what your initial timing is.....
I'd go back and make sure the choke is adjusted properly. If you have the Motorcraft 2150 carb, I'm almost thinking a blown power valve...there are tests for that but is the gas smell an eye watering, breathing mask wearing type of smell or, just a bit "rich?"
Questions, questions.......
I'd go back and make sure the choke is adjusted properly. If you have the Motorcraft 2150 carb, I'm almost thinking a blown power valve...there are tests for that but is the gas smell an eye watering, breathing mask wearing type of smell or, just a bit "rich?"
Questions, questions.......
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,354
Likes: 49
From: Great American SouthWest
When our trucks are tuned properly, there's no reason for them to be hard to start.
All my trucks have electric fuel pumps to keep liquid fuel up to the carb. Also, the idle mixture is set with a vacuum gauge. Ignition timing is set correctly.
I run group 27F batteries in all the trucks, and they all have custom made #2 cables with copper connectors. Only a couple bucks more than the cheap cables from the corner parts store.
My trucks actually start quicker, with less cranking, than my EFI Toyota pickup ever did
All my trucks have electric fuel pumps to keep liquid fuel up to the carb. Also, the idle mixture is set with a vacuum gauge. Ignition timing is set correctly.
I run group 27F batteries in all the trucks, and they all have custom made #2 cables with copper connectors. Only a couple bucks more than the cheap cables from the corner parts store.
My trucks actually start quicker, with less cranking, than my EFI Toyota pickup ever did
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,924
Likes: 153
A bad solenoid can cause starting problems. It can stop putting out full voltage when your trying to start it.
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