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Need clarification on locking front hubs.

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Old May 3, 2017 | 11:30 AM
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Need clarification on locking front hubs.

What is the proper position to lock the front hubs. No matter which direction I spin the locking mechanism only the left side hub will spin. im under truck spinning the front drive shaft and only front left hub will spin. Right from will not regardless of position of the locking mechanism. New to the truck forgive me.

Thanks,
Kyle.

2001 f250 7.3 lariat 4x4
 
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Old May 3, 2017 | 11:34 AM
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An easy way to remember it is like clock, lock. Clockwise is locked, on either side of the truck.
 
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Old May 3, 2017 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Sous
An easy way to remember it is like clock, lock. Clockwise is locked, on either side of the truck.
Thank you. When in the un locked what should I be seeing on when I spin the front drive shaft with my hand when the truck is in 2wd.

I don't know how to embed the video. This is what is happening when both hubs are in unlocked position.
 
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Old May 3, 2017 | 12:01 PM
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What I do to see if hub lock is working is put in locked position and grab u-joint at the wheel hub and try to turn it. If hub is locked you should not be able to. Then unlock and make sure the shaft at the wheel will now turn freely.
 
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Old May 3, 2017 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Kyle Natoli
im under truck spinning the front drive shaft and only front left hub will spin.
Originally Posted by Kyle Natoli
When in the un locked what should I be seeing on when I spin the front drive shaft with my hand when the truck is in 2wd.
If you're concerned that only one axle is turning, it's just the differential doing it's normal thing of transferring power to the side of least resistance, (assuming it's an open diff). If you were to block the left axle with a long screwdriver or something, and turned the drive shaft again, the right axle should spin.
 
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Old May 3, 2017 | 04:29 PM
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You would be better served turning the driveshaft at the u-joint near the knuckle. If it spins then the hub is unlocked and if it doesn't then it is locked. Sometimes you have to rock it back a forth a couple of times for the locking hub to disengage. If the wheel still spins when unlocked your auto-locking hubs may be jammed or frozen. They are not cheap to replace. Ford considers them non-serviceable but I have used this successfully on many occasions:

Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page

I would clean them regardless if you've never done it before. When you have the auto-locking hub out you can spin the wheel to see if the axle moves. That will help identify where the problem is.
 
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Old May 3, 2017 | 04:32 PM
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Thank you all I'm going to check the hubs at the u joints. I'm fighting an ABS and over drive light issue at the same time.
 
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Old May 4, 2017 | 01:14 PM
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The hubs are unitized so if it's not the ABS line (goes from behind the wheel well insert to the front hub under the dust shield) or a dirty sensor ring then there's a good chance it's the hub.


Is the OD light blinking? I've not had that happen to me but there's lots on here about that if you search.
 
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Old May 4, 2017 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by brian42
The hubs are unitized so if it's not the ABS line (goes from behind the wheel well insert to the front hub under the dust shield) or a dirty sensor ring then there's a good chance it's the hub.


Is the OD light blinking? I've not had that happen to me but there's lots on here about that if you search.
Yes OD light was flashing pretty often. I swapped out the rear vss on the diff and OD light hasn't started flashing yet. I'm going to swap out hubs and locks as I think both are stuck. I can not spin at the u joints freely.
 
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Old May 4, 2017 | 04:02 PM
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When you remove the auto-locking hub (snap ring, rubber mallet, and patience) you can half-split the problem. Test the auto-locking hub by spinning the inner splined portion in lock and unlock. If it works properly then there's an issue with the hub and stub shaft. If not use the cleaning instructions before you give up on it. Those hubs are over $300 for OEM IIRC. If the shaft doesn't move even with the auto-locking hub removed then there's an issue to address.

Been there and gotten that t-shirt. I had a similar issue that I kept meaning to get around to. Almost 2 years later I finally did get around to it. What would have been a hub replacement grew to hub, auto-locking hub, stub shaft, and inner oil seal on the front differential plus all the pieces, parts, and o-rings that go with it. If I would have been pro-active like you are now I would have saved a lot of time and money.
 
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