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ive recently bought a 02 350 with 288k on it. all stock save for CAI. I do have all new boots for the Cac tubes and the plenums coming from BD, but im still curious as to what anyone thinks about my boost loss. I have an edge insight monitor i kept when i sold my 6.0 that i have now on my 7.3. max boost im getting is 9 and thats really wailing it....mostly 5-7 and EBP is usually 2:1 to drive pressure sometimes maybe more. MAP is normally 14 psi then rises to 20 maybe as boost raises. NO codes or anything. also the up pipes where new at 250 k and everything looks good with them. could i be really losing that much boost to the hoses? Any tips or ideas?
ok ive got all the stuff to make the leak detector. What exactly do you mean by the turbo inlet "scraping"? Just driving it down the road, what i thought was just the turbo spool from the cold air intake, im now thinking is boost that im losing......Its a really loud "wooshing" sound thats similar to turbo spool but now im second guessing it, mostly because it seems too loud, like almost too loud to have a conversation over when accelerating or lugging up a hill. Thanks for your insight im curious as to what you mean by scraping at the turbo inlet i know i havent checked that ive read a lot on the forums but havent come across that.
Andrew
Reach in and check the play on your turbo wheel. Up, down, side to side, in and out. A minute amount of play side to side and up and down is expected as there has to be room for oil to circulate around the shaft. There should be no play in and out and look around the inlet around the blades for signs of scraping, also check the blades for damage. From what you're describing with the loud noise I expect you to find a big bad leak in your intake system.
Check your EBPV - it sounds stuck. If your Intake Air Temperature sensor is wrong, it could trigger a premature EBPV closure. Once your engine oil exceeds 150 degrees F, the EBPV should open up.
So I got all my boots and dug into the job. When I took the plenum off and looked underneath the turbo at the ebpv I noticed the ebpv valve itself is unscrewed at the rod underneath the turbo but the connection was still hooked up. Can anyone tell me what that does if anything and which side is the valve on. I took a couple pictures best I could. What should I do? Turbo has little to zero shaft play and turbine looks great I just don't know where to go. Boots, especially passenger side and especially below the plenum were especially oily and I have the dirty engine syndrome going on.
ive been trying to do as much research while i wait for your guys input its a tricky situation. Can i somehow use for lack of better term "baling wire" and physically tie the valve open and just unhook the actuator at the pedastal? I really hope someone isnt going to tell me to pull the turbo lol not that im not capable im just.....lazy thanks for your guys help. Based on my EBP and Drive pressure reading im really thinking its as simple as the EBPV valve stuck closed or the boots im replacing throughout. Someday ill put a gtp38r and ebpv deleted pedastal but for the moment im hoping to get it going for now! thanks for all your help guys i truly appreciate it.
Andrew, Northeast Missouri
Not sure why the rod end came off, broken rod, stripped threads? You should be able to wire the valve open as a short term solution til you can do the ebpv delete
Thank you. If im reading places correct i need to wire the Valve part towards the drivers side of the engine to be open...... and to disconnect the actuator to help slow the oil leaking from the actuator till i swap turbos and delete the ebpv out? im at a loss as to why its disconnected like it is, like i said im a new owner and i immediately could tell power was not as it should for the 7.3. Threads seem ok on the actuator end idk. Hopefully after i wire her up put the new boots on and tighten it all back up she runs like a top. Love the truck and love the help here, thanks everyone ill update tomorrow when i slap stuff back together
Andrew
A word of caution: I wouldn't go without my EBPV, I'd fix it. I use mine on a daily basis for an engine brake (I live in the mountains), and the engine warms up much faster in the cold winter months. When the temps get super icy, the EBPV will fire while on the highway. If I step on the accelerator to speed up or to pass, the EBPV disengages until my task is done - then it goes right back to flash-heating the cold truck. Once the Engine Oil Temperature is warm enough and the heater is providing relief in the cab, the EBPV drops out for good.
I have the GTP38R and I kept my EBPV. I have a task coming up in the future where I plan to do some maintenance on the EBPV actuator.
Ebpv was definitely part of the problem. Wired it open and voila....... No more whooshing under hard acceleration and on stock I can see 15 psi but I haven't really really tried...... I'm still seeing drive pressures 1:2 of boost even after replacing plenum and cac boots so I'm going to rig up a leak detector just to check. I'm pretty adamant my problem is not on the exhaust or up pipe side. Thanks everyone for your help I couldn't do it without you all! Any more advice or recommendations I'll gladly listen to.
Andrew
Now that you have no more whoosh, make sure your EBP sensor isn't shot. When they fail, they commonly read high - so you want to do a Key On Engine Off (KOEO) test. Look at the MAP (not boost), EBP, and BARO with the engine just sittin' there like a big lummox - they should all match readings +/- 0.5 PSI.
One other thing... while comparing gauges on the OBDII port, make very sure they are on the same scale. Are they both "absolute" or "gauge"? Raw EBP and boost are on different scales.
Thanks Tugly, im not sure about "absolute" or "gauge" ill have to check when i get back in the truck, yes im going off the obdii readings on an edge insight. ill do the still test on all the sensors tomorrow and holler back if i find anything that perplexes me . Appreciate it as always,
Andrew
Check your EBPV - it sounds stuck. If your Intake Air Temperature sensor is wrong, it could trigger a premature EBPV closure. Once your engine oil exceeds 150 degrees F, the EBPV should open up.
how do you check the ebpv? i have this loud swoosh sound when climbing hills and changing gears. i was told that this could be just turbo surge but now im wondering. i easiley reach max egts when climbing a hill while towing with a 80 hp tow tune(dp tuner). this tune does use a exhaust brake to help me slow down but just wondering if its working properly
thanks for your guys help. Based on my EBP and Drive pressure reading im really thinking its as simple as the EBPV valve stuck closed or the boots im replacing throughout. Someday ill put a gtp38r and ebpv deleted pedastal but for the moment im hoping to get it going for now! thanks for all your help guys i truly appreciate it.
. Appreciate it as always,
