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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

grinding or viberating noise.

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Old May 1, 2017 | 11:34 PM
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grinding or viberating noise.

Well after taking a few trips with the prospector i have had noises each trip that I don't like.
When driving fast like 80 mph or driving with a heavy load up hill about 70mph and when i hit a bump or something to compress my front end just a little I get this sound the sounds like my flywheel is coming off but it goes away when I let of the fuel. It is fairly loud and I can feel it in my feet.
I think maybe u joint but it feel solid enough . is there something in the axles like a u joint that can be vibrating? the trans feel solid and everything works fine when driving around town or not going too fast.
Also i get a weird kind of grinding or like a pulley rubbing steel sound on start up when it is cold. It lasts about 15 seconds then its gone. I cant pin point it . Some day I hope to have a truck with no issues.
 
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Old May 3, 2017 | 11:32 AM
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Humm, your guess is as good as mine.
 
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Old May 3, 2017 | 12:47 PM
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I would check tranny to engine bolts for tightness


15 second on startup, could be above with maybe starter hanging
 
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Old May 3, 2017 | 02:11 PM
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On the cold startup issue it could be the EBPV cycling, normal. The valve closes then opens causing back pressure. This usually only last 5-6 seconds though can but is quite noisy. You can unplug the two pin connector just in front and below the turbo. That will disable that function and most just leave it disconnected, won't hurt anything.

On the noise going over bumps it might just be loose fender bolts. Don't laugh just yet as it took me over a year to find this issue, after spending tons of money on front end work. It usually occurs when going over uneven services, in my case. Makes a hell of a noise and I could feel it in the floor board area, I have the automatic. I actually got out of the truck a few times and look under to see if anything was hanging, it was that bad, turned heads.

These are the bolts to tighten, snug them up really good, both sides. At least it doesn't cost anything to try ...

 
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Old May 3, 2017 | 03:42 PM
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^^^ try the simple things first
 
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Old May 3, 2017 | 08:22 PM
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Maybe the leaf spring bushings giving out, check those out too.
 
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Old May 3, 2017 | 11:46 PM
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Thanks. I checked u joints ok, i move the front shaft id it make a low clunk. i think it is just the inner section moving when I push on the side of it . The splines are tight and mo movement. The engine to trans looks tight I don't see a gap but will get a wrench and see. I will check the fender. I do have a missing bolt in the front bumper on the drivers side but this can be that. The evap was deleted. I replace the spring bushings. well not the rear of the front springs. I will look.
 
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Old May 4, 2017 | 01:37 PM
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One more thing, the front axle shafts, are the supposed to move back and forth? about 1 inch?
 
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Old May 4, 2017 | 01:51 PM
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Should have some movement, but 1"? Have you checked your 4X4 locks to make sure ones not dragging?
 
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Old May 4, 2017 | 02:57 PM
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Yes, they spin freely and don't have an odd feel to it. lock up when locked. By hand feel it feels good.
 
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Old May 5, 2017 | 11:48 AM
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make sure your downpipe isn't rubbing the firewall as well.
 
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Old May 20, 2017 | 11:15 PM
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Well I'm still having the noise issue. tonight I want and looked at the front axle shaft on the drivers side. I see that I can push the shaft sideways about 1/16 to 1/8'' of a inch. Not to be confused with side movement the shaft can move about 1'' Im thinking a bearing or something in the hub worn out? the movement seems to only be in the hub and the other half does not move That also may explane the ooil leaking past the seal on that side too... Yes or no? I never done a hub before. Is it easy or do I need a press and special tools? I'm getting to the point I don't want to work on this turd any more. I see fuel leaking now too past the press fittings. I guess the last time I pulled them the seals were in need of replacing. Is that a simple O ring? Lastly I see an exhaust leak on the header in the very back next to the firewall. The studs look bad and the headers look bad and it is all bad looking....
 
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Old May 20, 2017 | 11:39 PM
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Taking a hub apart is pretty easy, just a little time consuming and messy.

The only special tools you'll need would be some lock ring pliers and a castle nut for the hub nuts. I can't recall the right size castle nut but it's a pretty big one.

If things look bad in the hub, you may want to consider doing the inner and outer wheel bearings if the hub doesn't need replacing. The inner (closet to the spindle) is held in by a seal that is kinda a pain to get out though. I think the seal just prys out, but I haven't actually needed to replace it before so I've always left that bearing be.

Edit: where are the press fittings you are talking about for the fuel leak? For all the fuel connections I've done, there are either viton o rings or viton sleeves(these are at the lines that attach to the fittings on the cylinder head)
 
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Old May 22, 2017 | 10:05 AM
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Is there adjustment on the hub to tighten up any play? its side to side so it may be ever so loose or warn..
 
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Old May 22, 2017 | 10:47 AM
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Have you ever had the hubs off? My WAG is the the spindle bearing is shot. If it is, you would get the front to back/up and down play in the outer short stub axle at the u joint. It has been quite a while since I have had an TTB axle apart, but IIRR there should b a snap ring on the outer stub axle, just behind the locking hub cap. If that snap ring is missing, you would get the side to side, of the truck, movement. To repair the spindle bearing, the whole thing has to come off. The locking hub, brake caliper, wheel hub, and finally the spindle tube. The spindle bearing resides inside the tube. You will want this bearing kit.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BRGBK6 Spicer makes the same kit, as others as well I would think. Here it is from Rock Auto. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....125032&jsn=522
 
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