in/lbs sir, aren't you supposed to be driving north?

 

He's keeping in touch with his buds. LOL

And while we use inch lbs torque wrench for accuracy at such low levels, he did say 12 FT LBS, which is the correct conversion (or is it?). I am soooooo tempted to go out in the garage and sacrifice one of those injector bolts just to see what it's failure point is. I'll bet it's above 15 ft/lbs.

Edit: After researching it it's 144 in/lbs=12 ft/lbs.

 

You are right that the conversion is technically correct. Although, it is my understanding that approximately the 15% of the lower range and higher range of a torque wrench is a bit unpredictable.

Either way, I will hot torque the bolts to 130 in/lbs when I replace my injectors.

 

Loctite works, I use the slow-set stuff. Fat good it does to set, only to break the set during hot torque.

It has always been an issue, but nobody thought to look at injector torque fresh from the factory. I have checked the torque on a lot of factory-torqued injectors all these years later (including OBS Powerstrokes). I rarely find any of them in spec. If you question my torque wrench - this issue is so raw with me that I made damn sure of the tools I use now.



I've tried cold re-torque - nope... fail. They work loose again. Drivers that I work with (not many, but enough) frequently comment how much quieter their truck is now.

 

Haha! Yeah, but we took a day and a free night stay to explore a little and visit some friends. I was converting the inches to feet here. We hit the road this morning. I'll report back.

 

So you use the 3/8" torque adapter, right? Why not just get the 1/2" unit which has a higher torque range and adapt down to a 3/8" if necessary for "smaller" work.

 

I don't think the "Hot" part of it lends much to the process. I believe it's just a retorque after a running period.

 

I set the torque and verify with the electronic tool. Once the wrench is set, then I just use the wrench alone. There is a lot of inaccuracy every time the torque is set, but once it's set - it's stable.

 

Tell me how you guys are getting near the engine when it's HOT to retorque

There is nothing quick about getting to my injectors, all that stuff on top.

Or are you running it without the CAC pipes and stuff, just idling in the garage for...how long? How hot? Idling or driving?

The way I work, it would be too hot to touch, gloves too clumsy, and it would be cool anyways by the time I got down to getting the valve covers off

Inquiring minds want to know!

 

You run it with the CAC pipes and valve covers off. I ran mine for about 45 minutes. I wouldn't drive it around, too much chance of something getting sucked into the turbo. In fact you want to make sure there are no loose bits of anything under the hood. You would be very surprised at how much air the turbo blows at idle, and how much air the engine requires at idle too.

 

And all the electrical stuff connected and I guess tied up away from the valves and such?

45 mins at idle, eh? I have a fast idle tune, is that helpful?

Thanks

 

A fast idle tune would warm it up quicker, but I didn't even touch the throttle because I didn't want to chance oil splashing all over. The oil deflectors keep it under control at idle but I don't know what higher RPMs look like. I was nervous enough as it was running it with the covers off and everything open to the elements.

I didn't have to tie anything out of the way. The valves don't move that much.

 

Thanks again

 

I'm pretty sure Rich utilizes a high idle tune. These engines don't make much heat at idle. Maybe if you could engage the EBPV at idle that would help make some heat retention in the heads.

Let's look what the heat changes. Heat make things expand....what is expanding at a different rate that causes the "Hot retorque" to be beneficial?

 

That's how I look at it. I'm more of a science kind of guy, if I can understand the 'why' I can conquer the rest of it. I'm also thinking that the solution is to just go to a higher torque to start with and get it over with. Could anything other than the bolt get damaged in an overtorque?

If I go out to the garage and just start cranking on one of those injector bolts on the engine sitting out there, is there any chance that I would damage the head? I think the answer is a resounding 'no' but I am open to thoughts and experience. I could very easily go step it up 5 in/lbs until it failed.