Hoping I can learn from others here, potential options for setting up my 2017 F250 SD 6.7L 4x4 short bed to pull our Jayco Pinnacle 5th wheel trailer.

We pulled the trailer for seven years the 2011 F250 with the same truck configuration we have now. The hitch in the 2011 was the PullRite SuperGlide #4100 16K, with removable SuperRails in the bed. I'll be starting over with the 2017, again with a PullRite auto slider hitch, under bed brackets and in-bed removable rails. Neither truck had the Ford fifth wheel prep package. The challenge I see for the 2017 is the height of the bed and the bed sides, which is a good 2" taller than the 2011. To maintain a reasonable clearance between the trailers overhang and the top of the bed sides, I'm pretty certain the trailer will nose high. Pulling with the 2011 with airbags on the truck, the trailer rode nice and level.

So, what hitch system are you using in your non-prepped bed 2017 F250 or F350, to pull your fifth wheel? Any PullRite hitch owners out there? Thanks.

 

Some setups just can't get level and have decent bed rail clearance with the new taller trucks in stock from. In that case, you can always lower the truck. There is a company that makes shorter rear suspension blocks down to 1.5". (Stock is 3.5" for 2017.)

2017 Ford Superduty Fabricated Lift Blocks

 

Joined just to add to Karl's post. The blocks that he linked is exactly the route I took. 1.5 inch with the air bag perch. They just arrived Thursday and they are no joke. I really like the idea of not using the cheesy wrap around axle brackets and whoever does the welding for those guys definitely has an A game. I will be installing them today.

ETA: Adding the 1.5 blocks will lower the rear by 1.5 when removing the 3" block. Killing three birds with 1 stone. Lowering, closer to level and a better perch.

 

I can't help you specifically as I have the prep package on mine. But, for comparison purposes:

I have a 17 350 SWR SB and a 17 Pinnacle 38 REFS

I am using a Pullrite Superglide 18K (#2900) with the OEM ISR rail kit adaptor for the puck system (Which adds about 2.5 inches to hitch height).

I have air bags in the truck to level it.

When I first hooked up the camper to test the set-up I had about 8 inches of rail clearance. However, the rear of the camper was lower than I was happy with. I added the Lippert Correct Track and gained 2 inches in the rear which really helped. I still have close to 8" clearance on the rails. I am (Maybe) 1" nose high but it drives great.

I know this isn't exactly what you asked for but for comparison purposes I hope it helps.

 

Your just going to have to hitch it up and measure. Then you can adjust as mich as you can and see what you can do. If I read you right, I would get the the hitch prep under rails installed before doing the block changes, but only way to know is to hitch up and measure. The extra height of the in bed rails and the tallness of these trucks may be to much but you will be surprised how she sits down on the rear and the truck levels out to tow. Then the other option is whether the truck is level but the trailer axles need to be lifted to level the trailer. Depending on your hitch wieght, may not even need air bags.

 

In addition to the advice about hitching up to measure, let me add this: the Pinacles are fairly heavy rigs. Using 23% of the trailer's GVWR (forget published dry weights or pin weights) for an estimated loaded pin weight, you can easily exceed the rear axle capacity of an F250. In order to save a couple of hundred pounds, you might want to look at the Andersen Ultimate system. THIS IS NOT A GOOSENECK hitch - although they do make versions that are mounted in the truck bed with your existing gooseneck turnover ball if you have one. We pulled our 3,100# pin weight fiver with a 3/4 ton truck and an Andersen hitch for 12K miles before trading trucks to stay within the rear axle ratings.

Rob

 

First, I appreciate all that replied, very good information. SecondChance, after reading your reply I researched the Andersen hitch and liking what I am reading about them, along with the various videos. I have a Harbor Freight hoist mounted in my garage ceiling to remove the PullRite SuperGlide hitch I used in our 2011 SD. We had over 13,000 miles on the 2011 SD pulling the Pinnacle. The hoist was absolutely necessary for the install and removal of the SuperGlide. The Andersen hitch on the other hand, would indeed remove a lot of weight from the truck bed and make the install and removal simple. I am also researching the B/W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck hardware for mounting the Andersen hitch. B/W has a really nice installation video for mounting the hardware to the 2017 F250 SD 4x4. Again, appreciate all the replied.

 

I'm new to this forum. Why? Because there is lots of great discussion and knowledge. I would appreciate any suggestions or recommendations on my potential problem explained below.
I'm looking to replace my 2013 F350 SB SRW 4x4 extended cab gas hog with a 2018 F250 SB SRW 4x4 crew cab 6.7 diesel. F350 bed rail height is 56". 2018 F250 bed / tailgate height is 59.8" (by Ford specs - need to dig deep). So the 2018 bed is about 3.8" higher. Trailer is 30 foot Sabre Silhouette 5er with under overhang spec height of 59" but closer to 60" for real. The F350 squatted almost 2" due to trailer pin weight. I'm guessing F250 might do a little more. I was marginal on bed rail to trailer clearance with trailer towing level on the F350 but never encountered any problems. Hitch is a Reese 16K Titan (would never buy this again) on a Reese round tube slider with Reese rails on the bed floor. I'm pretty sure there will be bed rail clearance problems with the 2018 F250. There is lots of adjustment range in hitch and pin box to raise trailer front but I would rather not take this direction. I am thinking my best approach is to reduce spring-axle block from standard 3.25" to 1.5" and then install Lippert Components Correct Track on trailer raising it about 2". These two step recover 3.75" of the 3.8" lost going from the 2013 F350 to the 2018 F250. Trailer tires are already 16" so that is not an option. New F250 has 18" tires but there is no option to go down to 17" and in state of Pennsylvania where I live tire size cannot be reduced and pass vehicle inspection. 2018 F250 would be ordered with factory installed 5th wheel prep and the Reese adapter would be installed in place of the rails in the bed. Truck will be ordered with full towing package and 10,000 lbs GVWR rating.

Another question. Does anyone know if there is any benefit to adding the "camper package" in addition to the towing package? What does it add? Guys at Ford dealer cannot answer the question.

I would really like to hear comments, suggestions, recommendations to my plan. Thank you all.

 

Welcome to FTE! I was going to advise you to do the exact two mods you are considering so I guess I don't have to type much...LOL. You're on the right track for sure. The CC2 will indeed get you a 2" lift on your RV. I've done the same on my last one. I'd start there and see where you stand. Then go to the drop suspension blocks if you still need some help.

As to the camper package on a 250 that already has the HD tow package, you'll gain the sway bar. The overloads and upgraded fronts springs that also come with the camper pkg will already be included in the HD tow pkg.

 

I was researching the CC2 for my Mobile Suite but I cannot use it due to the type of boot hangers I have on the 5ver.

Download their installation instructions and it shows the brackets.

m

 

 

If I were you, I would NOT go down to an F250. You lose a LOT of cargo capacity when going to an F250 Diesel. Stay with an F350 if you're going diesel.

 

One word of caution with the Reese adapter for the puck system. It will add a little over 2" of height over the standard bed rails, if that is what you have in your current truck. The top of the rail will sit 3 3/8 inches above the floor of the bed. The top of a standard bed rail system is about 1 3/8 inches. You need to consider the additional 2 inches the adapter raises your hitch.

You may have enough adjustment in your pin box and hitch to compensate, I didn't. I was in a hurry to get an adapter plate for an upcoming trip for our Trailer Saver air ride hitch and never even considered the additional height. There is limited adjustment with my hitch and my pin box is at its limit.

I am now looking for an adapter that does not sit as high but the market is limited and more expensive. The best I have found so far is the Demco 6175 adapter for the Ford puck system. The top of the rails sit 1 7/8 inches above the bed floor, only a half inch more than the standard. It is probably what I will do before spring. I hope there is a market for the Reese adapter.

Your best option might be to consider a new hitch that mounts directly to the pucks or to the goose neck. B&W makes some very good hitches and I'm pretty sure has something that would work.

I second the going with an F350. Not that much more money and gives you options down the road.

 

I thought I'd post a related question instead of starting a new thread.
Like you I have the Reese adapter because I wanted to use the basically brand new hitch from the 2016 F250 I previously had. I also have a Sidewinder on the trailer, again for wanting to use the hitch I had instead of buying a heavy sliding hitch.
The added height is a small concern, but not major. I don't tow and camp all that far from home.
I have an inquiry into etrailer but thought I'd get some opinions here from real world users too. I'm considering another hitch to eliminate the adapter and lose some height. From the limited search I've done, the Demco adapter seems pricy for what it is. I may be better off selling the whole current hitch/adapter setup and going with a new hitch. But everything seems to be a slider, which I do not need due to the Sidewinder.
Anyone else encounter a similar situation and if so, what are your suggestions? Thanks!

 

I installed a B&W turnover ball and use an Andersen Ultimate Hitch with that. I'm towing a Momentum 349M (14k) with it with no issues at all. The Anderson is very easy to install and remove (by myself) and the Turnover ball is nice because I have an empty bed when I don't need to hitch.