So fore warning this does not really have a sense of urgency.

In the next two years i intend to pick up a spare 351w block, and build it up to replace the current engine in my truck. Im not so worried about cost of doing this vs buying a crate engine, as im doing it to learn about engines and how the internals all work and effect one another. Im someone that learns best by doing it not just reading it, and thats why i want to build an engine.
With all of that said, im looking at building a 351w focused more around a daily driver than a drag strip, ive been reading the two better heads to put onto are the e7te and gt40 (not the gt40p due to exhaust fitment) however to get the best results out of the e7 heads requires them being ported (to what sizes im not sure), i know im looking at a edelbrock 650cfm carb, probably with a edelbrock intake manifold for it, ive kinda looked around at camshafts a bit, the general consensus on cams seems to be to have one custom cut for your application, which im fine with, but due to compression ratios of everything i have come to the understanding its better to wait and figure out the pistons valves etc combo before going that route. I havent been able to really find out the compression ratio of the stock engine as of yet, i know for pump gas the limit on compression is 9.5 to 1, so i would like a final product around a 9-9.3 to 1 ratio, giving a little wiggle room to prevent detonation. As of now there is no plan to ever add boost to the engine, although if i could run the engine with a turbo application to improve mileage and keep the carb that would be nice. Just looking for advice and help as to what would be the best way to achive that engine build. Thanks in advance, as im a complete novice to building engines i will have a fair bit of questions im sure, so again, thanks!

 

I'm not awesome, but have built an engine or two. Here's a thread on the porting work I did for a 351W: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-document.html. You might skim that.

That was on D8OE heads, which are probably the worst possible to use. But, the results were interesting because a local porting guy got better results in some cases with just a special angle ground on the valves. However, I will say that those heads let that engine wind up with just a factory intake and 2bbl like it had a 4bbl on it. The thing just kept winding where before with the same intake and carb it didn't want to rev past 4500 RPM. And I think the difference was the work I did grinding the exhaust bumps out. Sure, the port-matching and everything else helped, but the exhaust was so restricted that what I did helped a bunch.

So, if you start with GT40 heads and just clean them up a bit you'll be well ahead of the game. Use pistons that get you 9.3 to 9.5:1 compression and a Comp XE256 cam, an Eddy Performer intake, and an Eddy 650 cam and you'll have a good setup.

 

Why am I so shocked to see a suggestion to get all Edelbrock, hmmmmmm? (voice of Yoda)

 

I didn't suggest an Edelbrock cam.

 

Well, you didn't mean to, anyway

 

It's 1 of them there duel pattern duel cam 351's you only here about.
(/hi jack)
Dave - - -

 

Oops!

 

you guys are always good for a laugh, i love the fun antics.

i read through your link there Gary, it was a very good and fairly informative read through, however the last post you made didn't load very well on my phone while i was reading through it so i believe i lost out on the last chart, so how well did that improve your mileage, and overall drive-ability of the pick up, also did you stick with standard rockers and springs?

On, another note, I'm going to start doing my research on rockers and springs today, i know that its a minor component combination within that greatly affects the longevity and performance of the motor, unfortunately most of what i find when i research engine building online is all trended towards the drag racing side of things, which i get is where most people tend to build engines, but if any one has any good book suggestions or article links I'm more than open to them, I know that Gary had a interesting book or two in he talked about in the link he provided. After all building a great engine that delivers good efficiency and power is PFM for me right now!(yes I'm stealing a reference from your link Gary)

 

I sold the truck soon after building the engine, but I didn't really see any gas mileage improvement. However, I did see significant improvement in power. As said, it wound up like it had a 4bbl, so apparently the 2bbl isn't the biggest restriction - the exhaust is.

 

That ive noticed with changing over from a stock exhaust manifold to headers or even with keeping the stock exhaust manifold sands changing a single exhaust to a true dual exhaust, and ford ive heard from various people is notorious for producing a good engine with a strong transmission, and then pairing them up with a very undersized exhaust system.

 

I didn't read Gary's article, so he may have already recommend this book, but I think if you are starting out new at rebuilding engines, you should at least get this book.


It's one thing to get the right combination of parts and to mess around with trying to get more power and fuel mileage. But there are basic things you need to know about properly tearing one down and properly putting it back together whether it's stock or modified. This book is older, but a lot of the methods it talks about are good ones that still apply today. You can do your internet reading to the get the most updated info on types of heads and the other latest methods, but this book will provide the basic stuff you need to have a long lasting engine when you are done.

 

What are your goals? That is the most important thing that determines everything else.

I would not run an Edelbrock carb, Holley is a more simple design adn tends to be achieve better max power.

I would not bother with any factory head on a small block unless you are on a real tight budget and can do machine work yourself. There are immensely better options for marginal additional cost over what a machine shop will charge to go over your iron factory heads.

If you're considering forced induction you're doing it wrong if you start with a small block. Start with more displacement using the 385 series platform. You can build a nearly 500 HP 460 fairly cheap and have great driveability. 545 isn't terribly expensive. Either of these options will cost the same or less than a small block with forced induction and still have room to add displacement or forced induction. You also don't have that pesky problem of small blocks splitting down the middle of the block around 500 HP. Less of an issue with a 351w, but a valid concern.

 

Upfront I'll say that I don't know 351w all that well as far as what the good factory parts are. But, you might want to research the exhaust manifolds and see if there are available and affordable free flowing versions out there. You can port those also and it's a great mod. On my preferred engine, the 300 six, using efi manifolds (2 of 3 cylinders each) that are ported give close to header flow numbers and are both cheaper and less problems leak wise.

There are good headers out there, but for the most part I don't like them. Cast iron manifolds are more reliable and compact than headers, but if there are no good factory versions, then sometimes you need to go that way. And yes, going to a good dual exhaust is a great idea regardless, or even a big single set up if you do your research and use a good Y pipe. Late model trucks use big singles quite a bit.

Just a suggestion of something to look into; I'm sure someone will pipe up here, but also start reading on the 351w forum on FTE.

 

im not in the desire to max out hp or torque, just to improve both, being its a truck the engine will be going into i want more torque than hp, but i want one that will last sand maybe give me another 2 to 3mpg than the 9.6 mpg im getting now.

however after that engine is done and installed, my current one will get tore down, redone, and installed in my dads 77 ranger. Then his 302 will be a play toy to go into some ratty old vehicle to mess around in. But thats way down the line.

 

The worst thing about Ford is the heads. Check around and see how much it's going to cost to get your heads redone, or some of those other heads you are talking about + getting them redone. Then shop around for some aftermarket heads. The aftermarket heads will already have larger valves, better ports, better combustion chamber, and a adjustable valve train. They are not cheap, but if you figure in your costs on the other heads and getting them redone at a shop, then it doesn't seem as bad.

The rest of the engine is just standard stuff for any engine.