This has probably been answered a million times, but I can't seem to find said answer. All I come across is "converting" a 2WD ZF5 to 4x4.

Anyway, my '96 has the E4OD, and I'd like to swap over to stick.

Being that my truck is a 2WD, I was wondering if I can source a ZF5 with T-Case and bolt it up (I'm aware of crossmembers and tail shafts, so that's no biggy) to essentially have a "2LO" setting by switching to 4LO until I swap in a D60 up front?

Also, since I'm on the topic of the swap, what's a good flywheel/clutch setup to look into? I know it has to be specific to my particular year of truck (or so I've read in several posts).

Thanks!

 

I don't see why it cant be done If you can find one.


Don't forget the Clutch pedal assy


many have good luck with SMF LUK clutches, just add in an extra quart to tranny if it make more gear noise

 

Cool deal! The LUK flywheel is pretty reasonably priced, so I'll probably grab that too, unless I can find a clutch/FW kit.

By the way, your truck is awesome! I read through your thread last night.

Depending on whether or not I can find a whole donor truck, I can get the small pieces like throw out bearings, pilot bearing, and cylinders brand new for relatively inexpensive, to the point where it wouldn't make sense NOT to but the stuff new.

 

get the pre bled assembled clutch MC and Slave which will save a lot of time


Thanks for the compliment. I got real lucky on my purchase.

 

I know Autozone has a pre-bled kit, but I'd rather not roll with their stuff.

Any other recommendations?

And it looks like you've got yourself a fantastic truck! I feel pretty lucky myself given what's around here.

 

Yes, I purchased my pre-bled cutch setup (master/slave/lines) from rockatuo.

I believe they were the least expensive and the set worked out great. Both my friend and myself bought these from there and we've had no problems.

 

Sweet deal. Looks like all I'm itching for now is the trans with T-case, driveshafts, and a clutch starter interlock switch to replace the NSS. I'm going to work to keep my current PCM so I can retain my cruise control.

 

Mine had cruise control and is a standard. I don't see you losing cruise control from that but I'm not a PCM expert either.

 

I wish I knew how to set it up with these motors. When my Bronco had the 302 with it's manual transmission, it had an aftermarket cruise control module, but that was hooked up with vacuum and the throttle cable (like most gas cruise units seem to be.) Sometime I forgot I had the cruise set and would press the clutch in and scare myself when the motor revved up real high.

I don't know how these motors/pcms handle cruise, if it's the computer itself or if there is a separate module. Either way it seems like it will be more difficult to add it if it were not an original option!

 

I think Glen is the cruise control guy around here.

From the reading I've done I *believe* that all of these trucks came burned with cruise control in the computer even if you don't have cruise control.

To get it you simply just need to add the cruise control airbag and that's pretty much it and it just works.

I would imagine it's the same thing for a stick except I can see if you left the auto pcm in with a stick and then tried to use cruise it would probably set a bunch of codes for the non-existent automatic transmission which might prevent cruise from working.

 

To answer your original question, yes. You can run your 2wd truck with the 4wd tranny and t-case. I had mine set up like that for roughly 2 years before I found a good D60 to complete the 4x4 swap. I found the 2lo very handy for backing up the 5th wheel.

 

Did have to get the driveshaft shortened, but that's not a big deal.
I went with the valair single mass flywheel and clutch assembly.

 

I had just read in another thread over in the 87-96 section that the guy kept his auto PCM to keep his factory cruise working, and just spliced a grand total of 4 wires, or so. With his stick swap and auto PCM, his cruise control seems to work.

Thanks, Dave! 2LO will be handy for me too. I'm wondering if I can get lucky enough to find a driveshaft instead of having mine shortened, but I'd estimate the cost would be around the same.

 

Getting a driveshaft shortened is relatively cheap. Plus then you don't have to worry about the condition of the u-joints in the new driveshaft.

I like the thorough bred clutch with solid mass flywheel. Comes as a kit for like $580? From Riffraff. Easy swap. We put it on my buddies truck and did his rear main seal at the same time since we were right there.

His name eludes me currently, but if you haul quite a bit one of the gentleman on here swapped the guts from his diesel zf-5 with the guts of a zf behind a 460 for the different gear ratio. Says it really helps with hauling and backing up his trailers.

 

low gear when backing up helps me with my trailer with less bucking


only way to stop it is a dual disc clutch from what I have read, 4LO is much cheaper