Dealer says time to replace them. Van has 140,000+ miles now. May have been done once before, can't recall. Can a handy do-it-yourselfer tackle this?
Dealer wants $440 all 4.

 

simple easy job

 

fairly easy DIY job, most everyone on here do there own brake pads.
If you can change a tire, not much difference.......kind of.......

Plenty of Youtube video's on how to replace brake pads, and even service/change the parking brake shoes if needed. If you find F series videos, not to much difference than E series brakes.

One point, get some Good Quality brake pads, Semi-Metallic Material, Daily Driver grade, and you'll feel the difference in stopping for sure.

Good Quality pads run $35-$40 per set, that's less than $20 per wheel, compare that to the quote you got from the dealer

 

Do it yourself. If they're not pulsing while braking (high spots on rotors) All you need do is change the pads, provided the rotors are not too thin now. The minimum thickness is cast into the hubs, measure the thickness and compare that to the minimum. If they're OK, and they don't have high spots, you can prep the rotor surfaces with a sander fitted with rough grit paper. I use a high rpm air sander with 40 grit discs and spin the rotor while roughing the surface with the sander. I'm with Wildman on choosing pads, you get what you pay for. Top dollar pads are worth the price. You'll get far longer service with the top end pads.

 

All these posts above are spot on! Mine is a 2007 and requires a Torx bit: check yours before beginning the job (unless you have an extra vehicle).

mostly I agree about buying good upgraded pads. You may cringe when paying an extra $20-$80 per axle set, (depending what you buy) but after the sale you will definitely be glad you did it. I recommend Powerstop Truck and Tow pads (and rotors, but whatevs ...)

 

Pep boys has/had the high carbon rotors for the same price as the chinese ones last week.
My rotors were so warped they had to go.

 

Are those Powerstop pads significantly better performance?

This truck definitely needs more stopping power, especially when towing. I'd even get better rotors if they would add to the equation.

 

pads make more of a difference than rotors
cheap rotors warp if driven hard
if yours are not warped or scored, I would just throw pads on

 

i mostly agree with Vettex2. I believe pads make the biggest difference. But I always buy new rotors when I get new pads.

I got the Powerstop pads, and slotted and drilled rotors on my van and it's wicked powerful. Powerstop truck and tow kit is pads and rotors, front and rear. Remember to also get new front wheel bearings and seals.

Hard to buy but easy to own- that's my mantra.

 

Depending on what it includes, this could be a decent deal. Typically though , once they take things apart the "extras" start piling up.
I'd ask them EXACTLY what they do.
Do the rebuild the calipers?
I'm sure they turn the rotors. If all they do is hang pads, turn the rotors and pack the front bearings.....ehhhh.....
What they will likely do is say you need new rotors and new calipers, new bearings and a wallet flush.
Having said that it's possible that with 140k on the clock you do need new rotors and bearings. You might also be able to just have the rotors turned.
Rarely do you need a caliper but some shops won't rebuild them.
I've done literally thousands of them and only found a few that couldn't be rebuilt with a kit.

Many times you can get away with my original advice.
I have done this on my own vehicles for decades. (over 230k on each of my vettes and other vehicles) I just make sure the sliders are lubed up and move freely and that the pucks in the caliper move freely too.

I just did fronts for under 160 in parts (new pads and new rotors). My bearings were good so I knocked out the races and reinstalled them after repacking them.
I shopped the crap out of it and found a deal at pep boys. Ordering online with store pick up I saved 25% with the code MMJ25 on check out.
YMMV

Your ability , budget and tools kinda dictates what you can do at home.

Are you confused yet?

 

Well, I think it used to be a Torx bit! Customized by previous (not me) mechanic.
To much slop for a T40 to small for a T45. I had to get it off with a 6mm Allen.
Also,I read to compress the caliper piston with a C-clamp. Should I remove some brake fluid first?

 

mine me doesn't have a bolt in that spot. What's with yours?

i rarely remove the fluid, but doing it that way you DO have to get up and watch the fluid level as it rises. It can/will spill if you don't catch it ahead of time.
Rinse with lots of water after the brake job if you do spill brake fluid.

 

As far as the fluid goes I use a dollar store turkey baster rather than let it overflow.
Flush with new fluid.

As for the bolt, I'm not sure but I thought they were allens but looking at the other side will tell you what it is.
I don't remember that exact caliper.
Either way it doesn't matter. Just buy new ones

 

Rotors seem fine to me. This is a 1999 Quigley 4x4, so what Ford/year components they used I'm not sure . Pic of the diff here shows 05 03 94. Might be year of front axel assembly. These parts look familiar to anyone?

 

do you think you should have led with this?


unbolt and knock out the slider