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That looks great, Pete! I was just thinking about swapping out the mechanical pump on my flattie for an electric. I was leaning towards one of those E8016S pumps and a regulator, but I may end up going the same route you took. That Holley pump looks good, though it looks like the 12-426 version may be better suited for a vehicle: self-regulating between 1.5 and 4 lbs pressure. The 12-425 says 1.5-2.5 lbs pressure and intended for power sports and lawn/garden. Otherwise pretty much the same thing. Speaking of the same thing, it looks like K&N sells the exact same pumps, just with their own branding (
). I like the idea of these being self-regulating, one less component to clutter up the engine bay.
Now about that blocker plate... It's awesome that you've got a facility like that nearby. Too bad you didn't make any extras, I'd love to have one exactly like that. I might have to resort to fabricating one with an angle grinder and drill if I don't find one pre-produced (I haven't found anything yet). Or if you're going to the workshop anytime soon for something else and feel like making another one while you're there... :-)
Did you leave out your push rod? How are things running with the new pump?
Gabe, "self-regulating" in this context means the pump just can't produce any more pressure than the top of the range spec'd. It isn't like they have an actual regulator built in.
I used to run a Facet pump that looked a lot like those, had bad luck (but it was on a bigger engine). I've had very good luck with the Airtex E8016S, going on 10 years on the same pump.
Ahh, thanks for the clarification. I had looked at the Facets and decided to pass. These seem to be an updated version of those if I'm not mistaken.
Do you run a regulator with your E8016S? The typical Holley (12-804)? Mounted in the engine bay or somewhere else? Are you running your elec pump inline with the mechanical, or remove/bypass it?
Gabe - I ordered a 12-425 but received a 12-426. The 12-426 instructions say 1.5 to 4 psi. It should work fine on a 239 cid engine. I didn't want to go with too much pressure high as then I would need a regulator. The Holley 390 carb that I am using can handle 4 psi.
The cover plate you could make yourself. I thought about it but the results out of the Torchmate are just so precise. The distance on center for the bolt holes is 3 ⅛". I think that is the same as the thermostat housings.
You might want to check to see if there is a workshop like ours in your area. I think that the key word to use in Google is "makerspace". I'll be glad to share the CAD file with you or make you one. Just send me a PM.
Last edited by petemcl; Apr 25, 2017 at 05:46 PM.
Reason: Actually received a 12-426
Thanks Pete. I did some lookin around and it appears that the closest shop is at U of I, about 90 minutes away. Shouldn't be too difficult to make though.
Ahh, thanks for the clarification. I had looked at the Facets and decided to pass. These seem to be an updated version of those if I'm not mistaken.
Do you run a regulator with your E8016S? The typical Holley (12-804)? Mounted in the engine bay or somewhere else? Are you running your elec pump inline with the mechanical, or remove/bypass it?
Yes, I have the Holley 12-804. Mounted on the DS inner fender. I'm running a Rochester carb now, it's much more tolerant of pressure, but it's already there, so...
Running stand-alone electric. I made a blanking plate like Pete's, out of 1/4" aluminum I had around. I did make a device to plug the fuel pump bushing, not tightly, just to keep oil from collecting in between the manifold and the gasket. It's a 5"-long bolt I turned down to fit loosely in the bushing, and the head is just under the blanking plate.
Update: My error - I ordered 12-425 but they shipped me a 12-426 which is why the instructions said 1.5 - 4 psi. I finally got everything mounted today and the wiring run correctly. And, HAPPY DAYS !!!, the truck started just fine after sitting for 6 months.
Hey guys, adding to this... I have a new mechanical fuel pump, but found the push rod isn't moving it far enough up and down for it to activate the pump (or that's what we're thinking and looking at the movement with fuel pump off, it's not much).
This was the original reason we parked the truck, the "fuel pump went bad". I could pull the rod and check it, but it could even bee the crankshaft itself and I think I'd rather just go electric. I have a 6 volt system, what pump should i get? MACs sells a couple, one says to use in parallel with mechanical... don't want to do that. The other says 4-6.5 lbs pressure and install near fuel tank.
So, what should I get? Order a different one from somewhere else?
Hey guys, adding to this... I have a new mechanical fuel pump, but found the push rod isn't moving it far enough up and down for it to activate the pump (or that's what we're thinking and looking at the movement with fuel pump off, it's not much).
?
I've seen a small piece of leather wedged up in the arm socket to give more movement to the pump more than once. A fix from way back.
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