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Wedge from what I've read in the past it more of a problem with no support on the exaust than the EGR cooler. Like I said do it, just keep an eye on everything.
Just like any full delete with a solid uppipe,the pipe itself is supported by the manifold,the cooler supported by the rear bolt and two front bolts but vibration could cause a problem.
Unless you get a POS up-pipe, it won't be a problem. But the bracket on the cooler that the single bolt on the rear is attached to isn't designed to support the weight of the egr cooler. Hopefully your foam idea works, and withstands the heat...without putting off toxic fumes
For what its worth, the intake is under a positive pressure while the engine is running, so I don't see how air could enter through the open end of the cooler, the only possible problem could be is if the EGR opened somehow as you would lose boost pressure through the open EGR cooler. I'm not sure the expanding foam is a good idea as if it ignites some how you could end up with quite a bit of harness damage.
After looking at foam temps,thats out,and the fumes. Anyone know how much pressure it takes to open the egr valve, I dont think ill ever make enough boost to force it open.
It's an intermediate support between the two bolts where the cooler attaches to the intake and the clamp that connects the cooler to the up-pipe. Nowhere near as robust as where the cooler attaches to the intake or the up-pipe. May work for a bit but I would not trust it.
After looking at foam temps,thats out,and the fumes. Anyone know how much pressure it takes to open the egr valve, I dont think ill ever make enough boost to force it open.
Hard to say, it would take quite a bit as you have intake pressure acting on the bottom of the valve and also on the top chamber of the valve which should almost cancel each other out and the bottom chamber is from the EGR cooler.The valve fails closed ( spring to close ) so if it's an air tight valve it may not be a problem.
Anyone see any problems with trying this please let me know but i think got all basics covered, i found it very easy to remove the pipe taking the fender liner out,tire off,use a 4ft ext and a pull bar on top bolts,but i went ahead and took my turbo down pipe off the replace with the 3.5 downpipe so that was not in my way as well.
As people have said that the freeze plug I put in my egr inlet will burn thru in time I decided to take it apart again and weld a steel plug in inlet. After a 2 day job I now remember how hard it was the first time. The freeze plug was fine but just to be careful I welded a steel plate in there too. I like your foam idea. better than goin in there again. I also found them egr plugs sold on ebay are took thick to work.
That thick plug that goes over the exh pipes tee to the cooler,i used that and ground it flat and put over coolers inlet then used the factory clamp,its pressed over the opening tight, maybe ill get the new uppipe and 3.5 downpipe this week,truck had the factory cat and muffler so maybe all this helps.
Ok guys,just got back trying this out,everything works right so far, just the solid uppipe and unplugged the egr valve, coolers still in place with coolant going thru it,now my coolant temps dropped,oil temps dropped,egt dropped with new straight exhaust system,that damn cat is very very heavy,i think its stopped up some,got a nice rumble out of it now when on it hard,alot more pickup power seems like, but this does work.