Upgrading WDH
#16
That really does seem like a high TW for that trailer's total weight. I know THs tend to be very tongue heavy, our old 11k GVW 31' TH had a 1450 TW when loaded for a camping trip with a light-ish garage load that had the trailer at 9500lbs.
Was the empty trailer TW of 1700 and loaded TW of 1550 the total extra load on the rear axle or did you already subtract any lost weight from the front axle off the total rear axle weight added?
Was the empty trailer TW of 1700 and loaded TW of 1550 the total extra load on the rear axle or did you already subtract any lost weight from the front axle off the total rear axle weight added?
I got my weights by weighing the truck empty with out the trailer then I weighed again with a loaded truck and trailer and subtracted the difference on the rear axle for the tongue weight. You would also have to consider adding the weight of the WDH and a extra battery that sits on the tongue of the trailer.
#17
On the way home from dealer TW was 1700 lbs with a full tank of fresh water 60 gallons and with a underrated 10k WDH. Fully loaded with only one bike in the Toy Hauler and 20 gallons of water had 1550 lbs of TW also with a underrated 10k WDH.
I got my weights by weighing the truck empty with out the trailer then I weighed again with a loaded truck and trailer and subtracted the difference on the rear axle for the tongue weight. You would also have to consider adding the weight of the WDH and a extra battery that sits on the tongue of the trailer.
I got my weights by weighing the truck empty with out the trailer then I weighed again with a loaded truck and trailer and subtracted the difference on the rear axle for the tongue weight. You would also have to consider adding the weight of the WDH and a extra battery that sits on the tongue of the trailer.
But if any weight was lost off the front axle (like from an under sized WD hitch) the amount lost off the front is now carried on the rear axle. That is transferred weight, not tongue weight and will return back to the front (or at least mostly) with a correctly sized hitch. So if your front axle was 300lbs less when hitched than when solo your TW would actually be 1400-ish empty and 1250-ish loaded. Which would seem to more closely match what one would expect from a trailer of that type and weight. I do agree that the battery, propane and hitch are all part of the TW.
#18
But if any weight was lost off the front axle (like from an under sized WD hitch) the amount lost off the front is now carried on the rear axle. That is transferred weight, not tongue weight and will return back to the front (or at least mostly) with a correctly sized hitch. So if your front axle was 300lbs less when hitched than when solo your TW would actually be 1400-ish empty and 1250-ish loaded. Which would seem to more closely match what one would expect from a trailer of that type and weight. I do agree that the battery, propane and hitch are all part of the TW.
#19
Update. With the new 15k Trunnion style WDH I was able to move 200lbs to the trailer axles and 100 lbs + to the trucks front axle. The new hitch is easier to spring up as well. I think the 10k hitch was just being maxed out and underrated obviously for my trailer.
Tongue weight is now 1050lbs. in the first weigh in I included the hitch receiver on the trailer this time I included it as cargo for the truck which is about 70lbs...
Tongue weight is now 1050lbs. in the first weigh in I included the hitch receiver on the trailer this time I included it as cargo for the truck which is about 70lbs...
#20
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#21
I have a Blue OX 15,000 WDH. Rotating the chain hung tension bars to their SUGGESTED link count is virtually impossible for me. I'm 6' 240 and not shy. I can get a few links of tension on the bars and have to call it good. The trailer follows and tows well with what I can do, but again .. the tension is not as tight as they recommend. I don't get it.
#22
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I have a Blue OX 15,000 WDH. Rotating the chain hung tension bars to their SUGGESTED link count is virtually impossible for me. I'm 6' 240 and not shy. I can get a few links of tension on the bars and have to call it good. The trailer follows and tows well with what I can do, but again .. the tension is not as tight as they recommend. I don't get it.
#23
#24
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#25
I have a Blue OX 15,000 WDH. Rotating the chain hung tension bars to their SUGGESTED link count is virtually impossible for me. I'm 6' 240 and not shy. I can get a few links of tension on the bars and have to call it good. The trailer follows and tows well with what I can do, but again .. the tension is not as tight as they recommend. I don't get it.
#26
All of you guys that are struggling with the Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch, here is a suggestion for you. Right after I bought mine (1500 lb version) I discovered the StrapTek system. You can google it and read about it and what it is. Trying to get the proper adjustment on the Blue Ox pull ups was way too much work, and somewhat dangerous in my opinion. The StrapTek system replaces the Blue Ox pull ups and chains with a heavy duty strap type winch system. Each strap is rated for 3300 lb breaking strength, so on a 1500 lb spring bar like mine, you are in no danger of the strap being overloaded. So, on mine, I lower the trailer down onto the hitch ball and winch the spring bars up to the appropriate tension (measure the distance of spring bar deflection before replacing the Blue Ox pull ups). Once you tension the spring bars, then go ahead and finish lowering the trailer onto the hitch ball, lock the coupler, finish raising you trailer jack, and hook up the 7 pin connector and safety chains. Done!
When it's time to unhitch, you basically just reverse the process, but the nice thing with the StrapTeK system is that when you get ready to loosen the tension on the spring bars, you simply put your ratchet wrench with the socket, on the winch nut, apply pressure like you are going to try and tighten it some more, then while holding that position, release the catch on the winch and slowly release some of the tension of the bars. If you need to reposition your wrench, simply release the winch catch and make sure it is seated, and then reposition your wrench for for releasing the rest of the spring bar tension.
I have been using mine since last fall and I wouldn't go back to the Blue Ox pull ups for any reason. Remember though, if you go this route and decide to use the S.T. system, hook up your trailer one last time using the Blue Ox pull ups, take a measurement to use as a reference for putting the same tension on the spring bars with the S.T. (I measured the end of the spring bar to the bottom of the trailer "A" frame member). One other thing I did was to actually mark the strap on both winches with a paint stick when properly tensioned. I put a paint stick line at exactly TDC of the winch, so now when I hook up, all I have to do is winch the straps up until the paint mark is at the top.
With this system/method, there is NEVER any lowering/raising the tongue jack in order to get the "correct chain adjustment"......in fact, there is no chain anymore. You still use the "U" bolt that comes with the spring bars, but the "J" hook on the end of the winch straps fits right in there when you remove the U bolt and turn it over. Hope this helps a bit on making life easier with the Blue Ox.
Oh, and one other note.....with the Blue Ox system (even when using the S.T. winches), you can back the trailer up and turn it just like the W.D.H. wasn't there....Big Advantage in my opinion.
When it's time to unhitch, you basically just reverse the process, but the nice thing with the StrapTeK system is that when you get ready to loosen the tension on the spring bars, you simply put your ratchet wrench with the socket, on the winch nut, apply pressure like you are going to try and tighten it some more, then while holding that position, release the catch on the winch and slowly release some of the tension of the bars. If you need to reposition your wrench, simply release the winch catch and make sure it is seated, and then reposition your wrench for for releasing the rest of the spring bar tension.
I have been using mine since last fall and I wouldn't go back to the Blue Ox pull ups for any reason. Remember though, if you go this route and decide to use the S.T. system, hook up your trailer one last time using the Blue Ox pull ups, take a measurement to use as a reference for putting the same tension on the spring bars with the S.T. (I measured the end of the spring bar to the bottom of the trailer "A" frame member). One other thing I did was to actually mark the strap on both winches with a paint stick when properly tensioned. I put a paint stick line at exactly TDC of the winch, so now when I hook up, all I have to do is winch the straps up until the paint mark is at the top.
With this system/method, there is NEVER any lowering/raising the tongue jack in order to get the "correct chain adjustment"......in fact, there is no chain anymore. You still use the "U" bolt that comes with the spring bars, but the "J" hook on the end of the winch straps fits right in there when you remove the U bolt and turn it over. Hope this helps a bit on making life easier with the Blue Ox.
Oh, and one other note.....with the Blue Ox system (even when using the S.T. winches), you can back the trailer up and turn it just like the W.D.H. wasn't there....Big Advantage in my opinion.
#27
Join Date: Oct 2015
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#28
Trust me, there is NO comparison between the Blue Ox pull ups and the StrapTek system......can you say night and day easier......with S.T. With the S.T. system, the release is completely controlled by the operator, unlike the B.O. system that once the cam goes over the center of the pull up on release, there is no controlling it....and all your body parts better be out of the way!
Last edited by xrated; 07-04-2017 at 05:56 PM. Reason: added info
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