Adjusting weight distributing hitch
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2014
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Adjusting weight distributing hitch
I bought the distributing hitch with the toy hauler I just picked up. Since it was already set up? I have no idea what to do to adjust it. My guess is I need to raise the hitch up a hole on the shaft. Not sure what to do with the angle though. Thanks
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
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From: Bristol, TN.
I can't see your bars in the first picture, but what you are going for is everything being level. That is truck, WD bars, and trailer are all level. You truck is squatting at the rear so your front end is unweighing.
If you bars are already level, try pivoting your ball mount down to so your weight distribution bars are lower to the ground before you attach them. Doing that will shift more weight to the front end of the truck when you are hitched as the bars will be pulled up tighter to come to level levering more weight to the front of your truck.
If you get your truck and trailer weighed it would be easier to offer suggestions.
Steve
If you bars are already level, try pivoting your ball mount down to so your weight distribution bars are lower to the ground before you attach them. Doing that will shift more weight to the front end of the truck when you are hitched as the bars will be pulled up tighter to come to level levering more weight to the front of your truck.
If you get your truck and trailer weighed it would be easier to offer suggestions.
Steve
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Junior User
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I don't have the bars here now to go look. I keep them in the trailer which is at a storage facility. I forgot to remove the head though so I just went out to see if it had a label on it. Here's what I've got. Hopefully these identify the whole kit and not just the head.
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Are your overloads engaged at all?
Torklift Sheryl
Torklift Sheryl
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,955
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From: Mesa
It's sad that that is the hitch you ended up with. The sway bar is probably the least desirable of the various sway control devices. Anyways, tilt the head a little bit more for more load on the bars. I used to use the power jack to raise the truck/tongue to make snapping the bars easier. Here are some similar directions which will get ya close.
http://www.etrailer.com/instructions.aspx?pn=PS49582
http://www.etrailer.com/instructions.aspx?pn=PS49582
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Junior User
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Wow.. That's some positive feedback LOL I bought it because it was configured for the truck (supposedly). What's a decent one that won't break the bank? I might be able to save a bit to get another one. I'm going to go today and get the numbers off of the bars if it stops raining here.
Thanks for the input,
Brian
Thanks for the input,
Brian
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Upstate NY
There is a limit to what you can do with the bars - and yours do appear to have a pretty good bow already. You can actually lift the truck rear end to a point with bars where the rear traction suffers. I did a partial spin with a trailer that way - exciting to say the least. You may be in the market for some 'heavier' versions or possibly even a set of air bags or possibly a set of add-a-leafs to beef up that rear suspension. I wouldn't suggest the Torque Lifts though they do work - but by putting a bending/stress point on each of the already overworked rear springs
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
I would encourage you to just step things along systematically and not jump to change anything until you have a plan of attack. As has been noted, folks are using the same hitch you have successfully.
I think a number of us run dual cams. I have an antique dual cam that still does a good job.
Steve
I think a number of us run dual cams. I have an antique dual cam that still does a good job.
Steve
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no I don't have anyone here to try. The other thing I have (sounds better than bags currently) please correct me if I'm wrong! There is a newer set of F350 rear springs fairly locally for sale.. I believe 200 for the set. My truck is a 2000 and while it hasn't had a gooseneck or 5th wheel, I do believe it's pulled it's fair share of trailers around so the springs could be a little tired.If that is the case, airbags would simply be a bandaid to the actual problem in my opinion.
Again, I really appreciate everyone's opinions on this. camping and this truck are totally new to me. I bought the truck for this one purpose pretty much. Oh and regarding the setup pulling the trailer successfully with the PO, I put NO stock in that. There is absolutely no way that a chevy 1500 configured with this w/d setup was a solid/safe tow rig. He also stated he got 11 MPG lol. I got 7mpg the day I picked it up.
Brian
Again, I really appreciate everyone's opinions on this. camping and this truck are totally new to me. I bought the truck for this one purpose pretty much. Oh and regarding the setup pulling the trailer successfully with the PO, I put NO stock in that. There is absolutely no way that a chevy 1500 configured with this w/d setup was a solid/safe tow rig. He also stated he got 11 MPG lol. I got 7mpg the day I picked it up.
Brian
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2003
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You could stop in a local trailer shop. My local trusted shop has a whole back room full of different used bars, brackets, heads and drop bars. They may even trade you straight up if the have the matching style bars. The 800 pounders you have are really popular in the ~24' bunk units that families with SUVs and 1/2 tons have everywhere, so they will certainly be able to find a new user for them somewhere soon.
If they won't trade straight up, they should certainly trade yours and some cheap cash for what you need.
If they won't trade straight up, they should certainly trade yours and some cheap cash for what you need.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,113
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From: Iowa
I'm assuming by toy hauler it has a bay in back to put ATV's if so when unloaded the weight will be heavier in the front.
If you have over load springs they are the same as f350 but have a shorter block under them.
If you have over load springs they are the same as f350 but have a shorter block under them.